“Don’t worry about it, just head down”, our instructor Nils says waving a pole at the pine trees dropping off the back of the piste. Next thing I know, I’m whistling through the trees of the Combe des Lanchettes, heading for the smart new ten-man gondola. This is the bottom half of Les Arcs’ 2000 vertical metre descent from the Aiguille Rouge (3227m), down to the rustic farm village Villaroger, now equipped with a gondola that cuts a 20-minute chairlift down to under seven minutes – with heated seats thrown in. The top half would have to wait until tomorrow – too much snow. No bother, a second powder lap through the trees would have to do.
24 hours earlier, I had just settled into the train with all my gear, free from airport weigh-ins and endless security lines. I was heading for Bourg-Saint-Maurice, the mountain town at the bottom of the valley that marks the long-standing rail link between London and Les Arcs.
Once in Bourg, I towed my skis across the train station towards the funicular – a complimentary transit perk for rail arrivals. It takes just seven minutes to glide up to the slopes, and as the valley rain turned to snow, I looked down on the odd car struggling through the endless hairpins with a smug grin. Les Arcs is built for skiers, not cars. It’s a tiered network of pedestrian hamlets, designed to blend into the mountain landscape with minimal disturbance to the surrounding environment. Navigating them means knowing which Arc fits your speed. There is Arc 1600 anchored by its impressive Club Med, Arc 1800, the bustling, classic hub of ski-in/ski-out apartments, and Arc 1950 and 2000 the more recent high-end villages that sit tucked away in the alpine bowl. My target was Arc 1950, France’s little Whistler – perfectly placed for the exciting ski terrain.
With the morning’s fresh tracks under our belts, we unclipped at Café B.O.B, perched at almost 3000m, and refuelled with local beer and an overgenerous helping of blueberry tart. Nils, the local superstar instructor, pulled out his phone and zoomed in four times to an unidentifiable figure suspended off a towering steel pylon. “My summer job,” he grinned, perhaps slightly embellishing his role in assembling the new Villaroger gondola.
Nils points the way
“The thing about Les Arcs,” Nils explained, “is you have everything right here.”
He was referring to the variety of skiing right at your doorstep: from gentle blue cruisers that weave through the chalets, to hair-raising faces down the back of the Aiguille Rouge. On a memorable zipline commute home from café B.O.B. to Arc 2000, I got to admire that diverse terrain firsthand. “Keep your hands pulled in through the start gates,” the two lifties chuckled as they ratcheted me into my harness. I barely had time for a nervous wink before the metal floor gave way, dropping me into a 130 km/h face-first freefall across the mountain bowl. For thrill seekers, it’s definitely the quickest way down to après.
After a last long cruise down from Grand Col into the heart of Arc 1950, drinks were lining the snow covered streets. Our afternoon legs however, were calling for something a little more restorative: an appointment at the Deep Nature Spa.
Arc 1950 was built in the early 2000s, in the mold of North American ski areas Whistler and Mont Tremblant. Now managed by Pierre & Vacances, its self-catered apartments can be booked on an ad hoc basis, all through the winter and in the peak summer months. Tucked beneath the village, the spa is an example of Les Arcs design for environmental harmony, embedded directly into the rock face behind the chalets. Inside, a very reasonable two-hour pass grants access to a haven of heated mineral pools, dry saunas, and steamy hammams – and if you’re brave, a tip-it-yourself ice-bucket.
The next morning, we were first up the Aiguille Rouge to tackle its unpisted black run down. Yet, world-class slopes aside, downhill is far from the only draw to Les Arcs, where summer stays for hiking and mountain biking book up as fast as the winter weeks. Our afternoon rendezvous with our guide, Marie-Paule (MP), was for a more eccentric pairing: a snowshoe trek followed by high-speed sledging. Ten pairs of snowshoes slung round her slender frame, MP led us to what she considers Les Arcs’ best sanctuary. After a few nervous skips and hops off the Arcabulle chairlift, we walked two minutes to step over the ridge into the Vanoise Nature Reserve.
Far from the clatter of skis and terrace lunches, we’re alone, face to face with the epic north face of the Bellecôte mountain. ‘I skied it after covid’, MP dropped casually, who proceeded to reject some Milka chocolate to snack on her nut mix. Strapped into our oversized plastic snowshoes – the essential gear that stops you falling waist-deep with every step – we circled through the quiet sanctuary nestled between Les Arcs and La Plagne. As we made our way back through the snow, MP rushed back to us to inspect a fresh pile of droppings, only to declare they most likely belonged to a snowshoer’s dog. Nevertheless, the nature reserve is a great conservation success story. Prohibited for skiers and protected since 1963, this pocket of terrain has seen the Alpine Ibex bounce back from near extinction to over 10,000, whilst rare bearded vultures nest in the cliffs overhead.
Back over the hill and wrapping things up, MP generously ferried our snowshoes down so we could tackle the resort’s notorious sledge run, its steep start designed to filter out stragglers. We all fell about, much to the amusement of the skiers in the chairlift overhead. Dusting my pride from my snow filled goggles, I grinned from ear to ear. This is what it’s all about I thought, as I strapped back in and headed down for that well-earned drink.
More Info
How to Get There
Eurostar Snow runs from London to Bourg-Saint-Maurice (from December to February).
Where to Stay
Pierre & Vacances Residences (Arc 1950): High-end, eco-friendly, ski-in/ski-out self-catering apartments. Includes access to indoor/outdoor heated pools, and the deep nature spa.
Where to Eat (On Piste)
Café B.O.B. (2,700m): Casual, high-altitude stop at the top of the Varet gondola. Try the soup of the day and the brownies.
Les Trois Saveurs (Peisey-Vallandry): Panoramic sun terrace positioned directly off the La Combe piste, ideal for a long alpine lunch in the sun.
La Ferme Goyet (Villaroger): Local legend Nils says you won’t find a better ‘pied de cochon’ in the Savoie.
Where to Eat (In the Village)
Le 2134 (Arc 2000): Fine dining and refined alpine cuisine at the top of the resort.
The Savoy (Arc 2000): Classic, homemade Savoyard fondue and pierrade (alongside live acoustic guitar if you’re lucky).
Wood Bear Café (Arc 1950): Cozy spot for organic, vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free toasties, homemade soups, and specialty coffees.
Evenings & Activities
Deep Nature Spa (Arc 1950): Mineral pools, steam rooms and saunas.
Après: Start at Bulle Café, head to L’Arpette at 5 PM, and finish by skiing down to La Folie Douce in Arc 1800.
Snake Gliss: Join a chained sledge run down the slopes at dusk, and hand on tight!
Taxidermy and precious stones up on the slopes, or the light show in the varet gondola station.
Top Tips
Ride the free Cabriolet / Navette gondolas between Arc 1950 and Arc 2000 (runs until 11:30 PM).
Zipline Setup: If you want to ride “Superman” style, no ski boots allowed, skiers will be sent bottom down.
Follow the Action
Follow @arc1950, @lesarcs, and @inlesarcs on Instagram for live snowfall updates, resort events, and conditions.
All pics credit and copyright: George Ruck