Why so special? Well, firstly, if you’re into spectacular scenery there are few better choices. Located in the heart of a UNESCO Natural World Heritage Site, the “Pale di San Martino” has some of the most stunning scenery in the Dolomites.
Next there is the classic feel of San Martino which is hard to put into words. There is a timeless elegance that a few long-established ski areas have but most don’t. San Martino definitely has it, with lots of characterful shops (you must try Bancher, established in 1924, for everything from traditional mountain clothing to locally made toys, wines and grappas, or the five Slalom Shops – one each for “sports”, “fashion”, “men”, “women” and “children” for the best names in Italian fashion and mountain sports), as well as cafes, restaurants and hotels.
And of course there’s the skiing within the beautiful “Paneveggio-Pale di San Martino” Nature Park. It’s not a huge area, which is perhaps why the tour operators stay away in this modern era that is obsessed with giant, soulless resorts. There are more than 60km of runs, though, ranging from 1,404m to 2,357m in altitude, with the Passo Rolle sector recognised as one of the most snowsure in Italy. Plus it is part of the huge Dolomiti Superski area pass, which means you can ski at neighbouring areas without needing another ticket, with 1,200km of runs in more than a dozen valleys included.
There are three snowparks: the Colverde Snowpark, lit up at night, the San Martino Snowpark and the Rolle Railz Park, and for families with younger children, Kinderland on the Tognola Alp and a special nursery slope for beginners (Prà delle Nasse).
The good news is that San Martino di Castrozza is also one of the “greenest” ski resorts in the world, so your hotel stay and days on the slopes all come guilt-free with zero CO2 emissions.
The village has been powered by renewable electricity for over a century (since before most places even had electricity, in fact, and long before anyone started worrying about climate change). Indeed, it now makes 10 times as much green energy as it needs and is a net exporter to the grid. It has increased its green credentials still further in recent years by replacing old individual oil-powered heating systems in hotels with a communal biomass green energy system and petrol pumps with charging points for electric cars. In fact, in a nice marketing move, San Martino and Passo Rolle have so much hydro-electricity to spare that they offer the chance to charge up your electric or hybrid car free of charge, while you recharge your own mental and spiritual batteries out in their stunning mountain scenery.
“During the long days spent on the slopes, while your spirit and body are regenerated regenerating, your car is charging too… for free and without creating pollution,” a resort spokesperson told me.
In keeping with that love for and protection of nature, freeride skiing and boarding come naturally at San Martino. After all, that’s what they practised here before the first lifts were built and the first trail groomers rolled up the mountainside. Thanks to the different exposures of the slopes in this area there’s a strong reputation for long-lasting powdery snow with plenty of natural jumps and chutes to enjoy. Just ensure you tackle it all with a guide who knows the local terrain and the conditions.
But if you don’t fancy too much exertion, the good news is that enjoying life rather than racing around (or, if you like, enjoying life BETWEEN racing around) is very popular in San Martino, as indeed it is in all of Trentino.
There are lots of great mountain restaurants in which to stop and take a break. For example, piste-side, on the slopes immediately above San Martino di Castrozza, Malga Ces (malgaces.it) has views towards one of the most spectacular mountainscapes in the Alps: the western wall of the Pale di San Martino. Homemade pasta with a rich venison sauce is a speciality here.
Or for something a little more modernist, the Tognola Hut up at 2,200m has is own high-altitude pool hall, and the observation platform has a large solarium with no wind blowing through, a VIP area, bar, sandwich shop, a pizza takeaway, bakery, and an indoor and outdoor self-service restaurant.
Here you can taste the full flavours of Trentino cooking as the chefs choose from “zero kilometres” food ingredients sourced locally for their traditional dishes.
At the end of the day, the après-ski scene in San Martino is not to be missed either. You might start off in the Ristobar Campo Base, a modern bar located at the foot of the Tognola ski lifts. Here you can sink a few top-quality local beers and maybe catch a live band or DJ set.
Or in downtown San Martino, the Ranch Bar has a great reputation with a family atmosphere, great food, especially excellent beers and a wide selection of wines.
But wherever you end up in San Martino you’re going to feel you are somewhere special. That combination of classic ski area, historic mountain town, strong community and environmentally friendly ethos, all set against the backdrop of some of the most stunning mountain scenery on earth, is definitely a winning combination.
San Martino Info
Transfer service: FLYSKI Shuttle and tailor-made transfer service by taxi or coach from various Northern Italy airports (the nearest are Venice Marco Polo, Verona and Treviso-Sant’Angelo).
Tel. +39 0439 768867 / [email protected] / www.sanmartino.com
www.dolomitisuperski.com/en/ski-area/san-martino-di-castrozza
