I am no stranger to mountain peaks and fresh powder, yet Ischgl in the Austrian Alps refuses to fade into the hazy white blur of alpine adventures past. Once a quiet mountain village tucked into the Paznaun Valley, it has spent the last century transforming itself into one of Europe’s most magnetic winter playgrounds.
This spring, with the Elizabeth Arthotel as our base, I became another of its committed converts. An adults-only, ski-in/ski-out luxurious retreat, it refined our alpine ski break with contemporary art, restorative wellness, and unparalleled hospitality, ensuring a premium alpine experience that stayed with us long after our last run.
©️TVB Paznaun – Ischgl
Spring skiing excursions often come with tempered expectations, yet Ischgl refuses to compromise. With skiing reaching up to 2,872 metres and a distinctive microclimate, the resort remains reliably snow-sure well into May, rivalling peak-season conditions elsewhere. After the familiar airport rituals – skis hauled, queues endured – we landed in Innsbruck and were on the road within minutes, winding through alpine valleys in anticipation of the crisp mornings and impeccably groomed pistes awaiting us.
From the moment we arrived, the Elizabeth Arthotel established an effortless rhythm. Positioned directly off the piste, the adults-only hotel offers true ski-in/ski-out access, and the slopes felt like a natural extension of the front door itself. With a swift check-in and bags quietly whisked away, we were ready to encounter Ischgl by midday, not before gazing at the beautiful interior with its perfect floral arrangements and a glimpse of its impressive art collection lining the walls. The transition from travel to terrain was so seamless that before we had even clipped into our skis and run safety checks, everything seemed already taken care of and we were ready to experience Ischgl unencumbered.
We started carving through Ischgl’s expansive pistes; 239km of flawlessly groomed routes are framed by some of the most eye-watering views suspended at dizzying heights. Its infrastructure, a seamless purring network of gondolas, ferried us skyward alongside other eager adventurers – gear in hand and visors fixed. With each ascent, we fixated on a fleet of skiers below, beginners and veterans alike surrendering to gravity, dropping into an expanse of white. The resort had everything, catering to every ability.
Our favourite slopes were striking black runs 14A and 14C, which suspended you between sheer rock faces and a narrow ribbon of snow, teasing you with a view of Ischgl’s sprawling white valleys ahead, before launching you down the mountainside. Each new piste promised a view of something sublime – we were hungry for more and spoiled for choice.
By late afternoon, weary legs and saturated senses signalled we were ready to conclude day one. We descended from the summit on a single, unbroken journey, a languid counterpart to the exhilarating slopes of earlier runs. Practically gliding through the doors of the Elizabeth Arthotel, we crossed the glossy threshold from the cold and were welcomed with a restorative warmth and even warmer hospitality.
We were greeted with smiles and attentively guided by kind staff, hauling our sore feet and weary selves through the corridors, serenaded by a procession of gallery-worthy artwork lining the walls. Each piece caught our drowsy eyes and demanded an extended glance at its bold and contemporary beauty; Alexander Höller, Herbert Brandl, and Francesca Marti to name a few. The Elizabeth Arthotel is led by the arts both within its frames and its essence. The hotel offers seasonal exhibitions and an intriguing display of archival photography celebrating its fiftieth anniversary through The Art of Legacy programme. Before we had even spent any prolonged period, we felt connected to the place and its people. It doubled as a cultural retreat as well as a mecca for ski enthusiasts, with details that extend beyond a conventional alpine lodge.
© Erika Laszlo Demeter – Elizabeth Arthotel
We entered our suite, which rivalled our London apartment both in scale and comfort: plush textiles, soft lighting and a bed that promised immediate restoration before dinner. We surrendered to it briefly, sinking into its furs and duvet, readying ourselves for the evening ahead despite being half tempted by the array of room service options promising almost anything our hearts desired.
Dining at the Elizabeth proved just as considered as its design. Guided by the expertise of sommelier and head waiter Nikola Kotorac, each course arrived with precision and confidence under the watchful eye of Head Chef Thomas Zechner. Flavours were layered and refined, presented amongst flowers, gold flakes and other commendable feats of artistry. The wine pairings enhanced each plate, elevating each bite; we felt the experience truly adhered to its Michelin Key distinction.
Eliza Restaurant Courtesy of Stathis ©️ Elizabeth Arthotel
After six exquisite courses, we sauntered over to the lounge, beckoned by a trail of glowing candles and the tinkling of glasses, easily convinced to enjoy one last nightcap before retiring. My partner and I lingered a little longer over some beautifully crafted cocktails, allowing us to reside amongst the class and comfort a few moments more.
The following morning began above Ischgl’s skyline as we visited the hotel’s rooftop. We were once again unable to resist panoramic views of the mountainscape – this time from the comfort of the hotel. We spent some time gazing at a waking Ischgl sprawled below us as well as taking the time to admire the hotel’s new art installation that seemed suspended between slope and sky. A glistening chrome blue sculpture titled Sissy commissioned by Austrian sister artist duo Franziska and Mercedes Welte, known as NONOS, is a stunning tribute to the legacy of one of the hotel founders, Elisabeth Aloys. Impressed and charmed, we continued to embrace refined details and breathtaking views from the rooftop spa below.
We drifted between the infinity pool, sauna and steam room, each space offering its own brand of revival, as if the view alone did not already suffice. A massage followed, and warm oils eased the strains earned on the slopes the day before. We emerged with skin glowing, smug spirits, and fortified limbs, ready to embrace the next wave of Ischgl.
This time we were drawn to the magnetic pulses of Ischgl’s formidable après scene, and Schatzi on the ground floor of the Elizabeth delivered in style with its signature spectacle: lights, DJs, and a fully committed crowd. No expense was spared and we drank in the atmosphere almost as quickly as our stream of Aperol Spritzes.
For the remainder of the trip, we continued our skiing excursions, settling into a satisfying rotation of slope-side exhilaration, excellent cuisine and dynamic techno beats. A balance and routine that endured throughout our stay.
Elizabeth Arthotel, Infinity Pool (©️ Elizabeth Arthotel
One afternoon, my partner and I split ways – I returned to Elizabeth’s spa, succumbing to another trance-inducing massage, eager to make the most of the accommodation before the trip’s end. He, undeterred by the prospect of solitude, took to the slopes alone. Forgetting his neck scarf in his haste, he was promptly offered one by a fellow skier, who then invited him to join their group. Over the course of the day, a friendship was built over shared runs and ski-lift chatter, reminding us that warmth and hospitality lay in both the hotel and beyond its walls in Ischgl.
As our final day approached, the inevitability of departure weighed heavily. The routine we had built – one shaped by snow, stillness and return – was not so easily replicated back in London, and leaving felt like stepping out of a carefully carved pocket of alpine life.
We left knowing this would not be our final visit to Ischgl, a resort that transcends expectations at every turn. World-class skiing and meticulously maintained pistes are matched by exceptional cuisine, both authentically Austrian and international in scope.
Our alpine base, the Elizabeth Arthotel, offered a luxurious and culturally rich home to return to each day and became more than a place to stay, shaping the experience beyond the slopes.
Ischgl became not just memorable, but unmistakably worth returning to.
Main image ©️TVB Paznaun – Ischgl