The question everyone is asking, Where is Good to Ski or Board Right Now?
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**** Updated Friday, 10 January, 2025 ****
Where is Good to Ski Right Now?
Much of the ski world has seen temperatures drop and fresh snowfall over the past 10 days or so after the warm and dry final week of 2024 for many.
Base depths are moving up again, especially in the Western Alps, Rockies, Japan and the Pacific Northwest corner of North America, which all saw the heaviest snowfall this week.
It’s looking good now almost everywhere with most areas 80-100% open and snowfall reported too in Scotland, Scandinavia, the Pyrenees, much of Eastern Europe and much of the rest of North America too.
Austria
A colder and frequently snowy week across Austria, bolstering snow cover on lower slopes after the warm week post-Christmas. Temperatures dipped as low as -12C, which has been good news for snowmakers too, when it came to topping up base cover. Unfortunately, the numbers did not drop as low as forecast all the time though and there were periods of sleet and rain. That said, overall Austria’s ski centres are in a good place right now with the vast majority reporting their slopes 80-100% open. The biggest areas including the Skiwelt, Saalbach Hinterglemm and The Arlberg (Lech and St Anton) each has 240km (150 miles) or more of their slopes open. It looks colder and sunnier from this weekend.
France
Snowfall returned to the French Alps over the past seven days with accumulations of up to 60cm in 48 hours at the start of the week setting snow depth stats back up on an upward trajectory. Unfortunately since then temperatures have risen again and rain and sleet to 2500m left challenging snow conditions. It has now started getting colder again though and sunshine is expected to return next week. Most of the country’s ski areas already had the majority of their terrain open for the peak Christmas and New year Weeks and the giant Portes du Soleil and 3 Valleys (pictured above at the start of the week) both report more than 550kkm of slopes available.
Italy
Conditions have become a little more unsettled in Italy although it has still been drier here than other parts of the Alpine arc once again. That said ski areas in the north and west of the country saw some snowfall at the weekend and start of this week and its now becoming more unsettled in the Dolomites to the east too. Madonna di Campiglio was a big winner, and Livigno, which had had very little snowfall until now, got a 35cm accumulation in 24 hours, greatly improving conditions there. The other big change on a week ago is that it’s much colder across the country, rarely getting above freezing. Most Italian areas are 90% open or more now with the Milky Way region on the French border offering the most terrain, more than 300km of slopes open there. Passo Tonale is pictured on Tuesday.
Switzerland
A mostly good week for Swiss ski centres too, with snowfall down to low levels and big accumulations above 1500m. Here too though after early-week falls, resorts including Verbier saw rain to quite high altitudes. Strong winds and low visibility at times were also issues. Adelboden and Lenk was one of the early beneficiaries receiving a 40cm accumulation at the weekend. As with elsewhere in the alps the news is pretty good across the country, although the deepest snow (and highest avalanche danger!) continues to be in the west. Most Swiss centres are close to full operations with the Portes du Soleil offering the most terrain accessible from Switzerland although much of it in France of course. Verbier’s 4 Valleys (pictured above last Sunday) has over 300km open, Zermatt’s cross-border area to Cervinia over 250km of slopes.
Pyrenees
The Pyrenees have had some fresh snowfall as well after also losing some of their snowpack in the warm weather between Christmas and New Year. It’s a mixed picture with some Spanish areas still struggling to open more than a quarter or so of their runs for lack of snow cover. But resorts in Andorra are reporting about 70% of their slopes open now and its the same for most ski areas in the Pyrenees (St Lary has passed 90% open in fact) and some other Spanish resorts like Baqueira Beret. Grand Tourmalet, France, pictured above.
Scandinavia
Conditions continue to improve in Scandinavia with some very low temperatures over the past week, getting down to the -20s in some northerly locations, and widespread snowfall too, heaviest in Norway and the west. The country’s big resorts like Are, Hemsedal, Trysil and Salen are now up to 50-70% open and those percentages keeps edging higher. However the deepest powder is to be found at ski areas in western Norway which have had up to half-a-metre more powder over the past seven days. Geilo is pictured above this week.
Eastern Europe
There’s been more snowfall in Northeastern Europe but ski areas also reported lifts closed at times by strong winds. However, there’s been powder on the pistes of Poland, the Czech Republic, Slovakia and other countries in the region along with much lower temperatures than there have been enabling snowmaking systems to resume operations too. It’s been drier and sunnier down in the southeast, but Bansko continues to post the deepest snow in the East and 90% of its slopes open thanks to earlier accumulations. Czechia’s Špindlerův Mlýn, which reported a lot of fresh snowfall this week, pictured above.
Scotland
Scotland has had the same very low temperatures this week and base depths have begun building again after much was lost in the warm weather up to New Year. Four of the five centres have at least some terrain open, still largely thanks to all-weather snowmaking machines. They’re Cairngorm above Aviemore, Glencoe, Glenshee (pictured on Thursday) and The Lecht. IT;s got tantalisingly close to them being able to open more natural terrain but cruelly temperatures appear set to rise dramatically next week so that now looks less certain.
Canada
Cold temperatures have been a dominant factor across Canadian slopes this week, with many ski areas from coast to coast seeing lows in the -10 to -20C range. Thereafter though there are clear differences between the Eastern and Western side of the country, the former mostly dry with just very light snowfalls. The problem is there’s been little snowfall all season and pre-Christmas it was often too warm for snowmaking with the result that most areas still haven’t open half their slopes or reached a 50cm base. Big player Tremblant is the exception though, with about two-thirds of its runs open. On the west side though it’s a very different story with heavier snowfalls again in Alberta and BC, most areas 90-100% open, and snow lying 1-2 metres deep. Lake Louise, which reported more than 20 runs opening for the first time this season in the last week, is pictured above on Thursday.
USA
It’s been a largely cold and snowy week across the US with last weekends Storm Blair bringing snow to quite southerly latitudes. The best conditions continue to be in the Pacific Northwest corner where snowfall has continued and a growing number of centres have now had more than 5 metres of snow already this winter and it keeps coming, giving deep powder conditions. The Rockies have had one of their best weeks since November though with several feet of snow and cold temperatures from the Arctic have brought snow and bitterly low temperatures to the country’s Eastern side as well. Keystone in Colorado is pictured above, Sunday River in Maine, top.
**** Updated Friday, 3 January, 2025 ****
Where is Good to Ski Right Now?
It has been a mostly sunny week in the Alps with skiers and boarders enjoying some sublime conditions even if valley fog caused travel issues in a number of areas, including Geneva. But above that, after all the pre-Christmas snowfall, most resorts had almost all of their slopes open and were reporting near-perfect skiing conditions. Bases are thin in the Southern and Eastern Alps in the Dolomites causing problems at some resorts, but most still have 60-90% of their slopes open.
It is getting cooler and snowfall is returning to the Alps now though. Morzine has reported 30cm on Friday morning. Up to now though most of the snowfall this week has been up in Scandinavia. The Pyrenees have stayed mostly dry, Scotland got too warm again and in Eastern Europe, it’s similar to the Alps with most centres having the majority of their terrain open.
A mixed picture in North America too with deep snow and everything open at most centres in the Northwest corner of the continent (Canada’s BC and Alberta, states including Oregon, Washington and Idaho in the US), but more problematic for some more southern locations like California and Utah. Across the Pacific in Japan though there have been more huge snowfalls and conditions are the best they’ve been for the start of a January in a decade, with bases up to 4 metres now, the deepest in the world to start 2025.
Austria
We’ve had more than a week of dry, sunny weather in Austria, giving great conditions after the heavy snowfall at the start of last week. It is now becoming a little more unsettled though, snow has begun falling again and that’s expected to continue into the weekend. Zillertal Arena posted 15cm (6″) of fresh snowfall on Friday morning. Conditions are excellent really pretty much everywhere with the country’s big ski regions like The Skiwelt, Kitzbuhel, Ischgl, the Arlberg of Lech and St Anton as well as upcoming 2025 FIS Alpine Skiing World Championships hosts Saalbach Hinterglemm all close to fully open for the busy Christmas-New year weeks.
France
It’s been a great week in the French Alps after the huge snowfalls before Christmas. It took some time for ski areas to get on top of the 1-2m accumulations, make terrain safe and dig out lifts, but now that’s done, most of France’s giant ski regions are 80-90% open and have been offering sublime conditions with the fresh snowfall in the sunshine – all perfectly timed for two of the busiest weeks of the season. The 3 Valleys, the world’s largest ski area, is 95% open and it’s a similar story at Paradiski (Les Arcs/La Plagne, Tignes/Val d’Isere and others. The Grand Massif is posting Europe’s deepest snow at nearly 3 metres (10 feet). After the sunny week conditions are becoming more unsettled with snow forecast and temperatures dropping for the start of 2025.
Italy
Italy has had another dry and sunny week with temperatures peaking around +10C in the afternoons on lower slopes, the freezing point at 2,000-3,000m. Much of the country hasn’t had a lot of snowfall so far this autumn so bases remain thin and largely made up of machine-made snow produced during colder spells. Although natural snow cover has gone from valley floors, pistes are being maintained and most of the country’s larger centres like Val Gardena have everything open. Cortina d’Ampezzo reports only a 25cm (10”) base though and is at 60% open, Livigno is also getting by on a 25cm base and has about 50% of its slopes open.
Switzerland
Swiss centres are seeing snowfall return after a dry nine days from Christmas Eve. Prior to that, there had been some huge accumulations in the west of the country and that looks set to be repeated this weekend. So the snow is getting deeper in Valais and other western cantons and the giant 4 Valleys around Verbier are more than 75% open now. It’s not quite such a rosy picture further east though, which missed out on the big snowfalls last week and looks like it will do again this time. St Moritz has less than a foot of snow lying on its slopes and is only able to open a little over half of them. Arosa is pictured above on New Year’s Eve.
Pyrenees
The Pyrenees have enjoyed similar conditions to the Alps over the last week with lots of sunshine. The weather has just started to change over the last few days, getting colder with some light snowfalls. It was a little too warm really, in the afternoons at least at low levels which has impacted the thin snow cover, whilst higher slopes have withstood the lesser warmth at altitude better. The big ski areas including Andorra Grandvalira (Pas de la Casa, Soldeu el Tarter et al) and Spain’s Baqueira Beret have both got 60-70% of their slopes open still.
Scandinavia
Things are gradually improving in Finland, Norway and Sweden, which until recently hadn’t really been living up to their cold and snowy reputation. This past week has seen temperatures dip to -20C or below overnight though with light to moderate snowfalls improving conditions. The largest area in the region, Sweeden’s Åre, managed to open 71% of its slopes for New Year’s week, which equates to a lot more than anywhere else, with most centres still posting 20-50% of their terrain available. Over in Norway big areas Hemsedal and Trysil are each about 50% open but powder haven Myrkdalen near Voss (pictured above) is starting to live up to its reputation with snow now up to five feet deep and 80% of its slopes open.
Eastern Europe
A fairly quiet week, in terms of weather at least, in Eastern Europe, but the northeast is getting snowier now and that’s expected to continue through the weekend. It has been sunnier in the south but lighter snowfall is expected in Bulgaria and Bansko is continuing to post the deepest snow in the region, at 1.3 metres, and the most terrain open – about 95% of its slopes.
Czechia’s Špindlerův Mlýn pictured above and top.
Scotland
Temperatures have finally dropped again in Scotland after some very warm weather over Christmas and snow is falling on the mountains again. Unfortunately, the warm weather melted away snow cover from most Scottish slopes so it is a case of starting from scratch again, pretty much, with base building. For now, then, it’s just small areas open at four of the five ski areas, each using snow created by all-weather snowmakers. Cairngorm, Glenshee (pictured above on 28 December), Glencoe and The Lecht all offer some skiing with these, though in some cases just beginner terrain and with the limited ticket availability selling out days in advance. Nevis Range does not have functioning all-weather snowmaking and says it’s unlikely to open before February unless there’s a big natural snowfall.
Canada
Canada remains a country with a bit of an East/West divide. Ski areas in BC and Alberta have, on the whole, continued to report great conditions with subzero temperatures and regular snowfall top-ups. The result is that most have snow lying a metre or more deep from top to bottom and several are 100% open (including Big White and Sun Peaks) with giant Whistler Blackcomb more than 90% open too. On the East Coast (Quebec, Ontario etc) there are still issues with rainfall rather than snow at times and few areas have more than 50% of their slopes open yet, but it is a very cold and snowy forecast for the coming week so hopefully there’ll be more improvements. Banff’s Sunshine pictured above.
USA
A mixed picture across the US. Most of the big-name resorts are in fairly good shape with 70-90% of their slopes open and 540cm – 1m of snow lying, but after a largely dry December, some are doing better than others. Aspen and Vail have most of their runs open, for example, but Heavenly in California only has just over half of theirs and America’s largest, Park City, less than a quarter of theirs. The most snowfall this week (and probably next) has again been in the northwest corner of the country around Oregon, Idaho and Washington state where avalanches have been reported and resorts are warning of tree well danger. The east coast continues its catch-up after a warm autumn, but the biggest centre, Vermont’s Killington, now has 70% of its slopes open, despite its snow cover only being about a foot. Sunday River in Maine is pictured above.
**** Updated Friday, 27 December, 2024 ****
Where is Good to Ski Right Now?
It’s been an amazing Christmas week in the Alps, with ski areas posting up to 1.5 metres (5 feet) of snowfall in five days on high slopes and several feet down to valley floors. The heavy snow pushed avalanche danger up to a high level 4 on the scale to 5 (now down to still “considerable” level 3) but for those sticking to the groomed runs it means ski areas have most of their runs open after roads have reopened and lifts have been dug out. It’s looking like one of the best Christmas/New Year holiday fortnights in quite a few years.
Elsewhere in Europe the Pyrenees continue to look good after their warm autumn issues, with more snow falling here too, if not so much as in the Alps. Scandinavia also remains on catch up after the warm autumn there as well. Slopes are not opening as fast as in the Pyrenees but the bigger centres are now approaching half open. Conditions have been better in Eastern Europe where most centres are fully open.
Not so much fresh snowfall in North America this week but most areas have seen light to moderate falls, with more consistently cold temperatures now in the northeast. The northwest of the continent is still posting the deepest snow in the world though. Japan meanwhile has had lots of snowfall this week, with images of cars and lifts buried deep by heavy snowfall there.
Austria
It’s been a great week in the Austrian Alps with very heavy snowfall right down to the valley floor. Accumulations were not quite so big as further west, but 72 hour totals of up to a metre were reported on high slopes like the Stubai Glacier. The downside of all the snowfall was an avalanche danger level widely hitting level 3 and in some sports level 4, on the scale to 5 and some slope closures, but this was not as severe as further west. Ischgl has still be posting the most terrain open at over 200km but most of the other big Austrian areas like the Arlberg and Skiwelt are pretty close – all with around 200km of runs open each. It turned sunny at Christmas and that’s expected to continue now through to New year at least. Fieberbrunn pictured.
France
It’s been a good week in the French Alps after the warm and sometimes wet conditions last week. Temperatures plummeted by more than 20 degrees to well below freezing and heavy snowfall arrived at the end of last week and then again at the start of this. Resorts including Chamonix, Les Arcs, Val Thorens, Courchevel and many more posted 50cm accumulations for the weekend and similar or bigger falls at the start of this week, for up to 1.5m+ (5 feet) 7-day totals. At the same time they were opening more terrain for the Christmas and New Year week crowds. The snowfall fell to valley floors too, good news for low-lying ski areas, although freeriders were frustrated by the high avalanche danger risk for now off piste. Chatel pictured. A dry and sunny forecast to at least the middle of next week now.
Italy
Italy got the heavy snowfall in its western and northern resorts with Cervinia posting more than a metre of fresh cover through the weekend and start of this week. However, furthers south and east accumulations were more modest, in the 20-40cm range in the Dolomites, with sunshine dominating instead. The upside of this was that unlike in ski nations to the west and north, there’s been little impact on operations and Italian areas are posting some of the largest amounts of terrain open, despite relatively thin cover. Cortina – which hasn’t seen much snowfall yet this winter – pictured above. Another mostly dry and sunny week ahead forecast for Italy.
Switzerland
A good week overall in the Swiss Alps with some resorts posting over a metre of snowfall from multiple storms between Friday and Christmas Eve. Temperatures also dropped way down below -10C on high slopes and down below freezing in valleys too. But there was also violent gales and lwo visibility at times leading to widespread lift and slope closures, particularly on Sunday-Monday, and the cancellation of the second day of World Cup racing at St Moritz. However, temperatures have risen now and the sunshine has returned giving skiers the chance to enjoy the fresh fallen snow. More terrain has been opening too, the 4 Valleys around Verbier is up to about 75% open. Crans Montana, which saw its base depth quadruple after 1.5m of snowfall, pictured above. It’s been sunny in Switzerland since Christmas and that should continue into the New Year.
Pyrenees
Some low temperatures and plenty of snowfall at the weekend in the Pyrenees, sunnier weather since Tuesday and a little warmer, if still fairly cool- in the -5 to +5C range. Base depths have now passed the 1m mark at the region’s largest ski area, Andorra’s Grandvalira which is neck-a-neck with Spain’s Baqueira Beret for the most terrain open in the Pyrenees – both at about 125km. Staying sunny into the weekend and through to New Year. Formigal pictured.
Scandinavia
Cold weather with some snowfall, heaviest in the west and north, is delivering a constantly improving picture in Scandinavia. The main ski centres still only have 30-60% of their slopes open following the mild autumn but it’s a rapidly improving picture. We’re also past the shortest day of the year now so daylight hours are gradually increasing, although many centres rely on floodlit slopes at this time of year. Temperatures have mostly been in the -5 to -20C range. Skimore Oslo pictured.
Eastern Europe
Some windy weather in Northeastern Europe led Slovakia’s Jasna, the largest ski area in the region, to largely shut down at the start of the week. Conditions have improved though with some fresh snowfall. It’s also looking good in Bulgaria with Bansko (pictured top and above) reporting 90% of its slopes open and the snow lying up to four-feet thick up high.
Scotland
Not the best of weeks in Scotland with the Highlands seeing violent gales through the weekend and then some of the UK’s warmest temperatures over Christmas. Nonetheless Glencoe, Glenshee, Cairngorm (pictured above) and The Lecht have all managed to open small amounts of terrain thanks to their all-weather snowmaking machines. It’s getting colder now with subzero temperatures and snow forecast.
Canada
Pretty good conditions across Canada right now with some sub-zero temperatures from coast to coast and light to moderate snowfalls reported on each side of the country too. The consistent cold is particularly welcome in the east where, although there’s not been much fresh snowfall this week, temperatures have been low enough for snowmaking to operate at the max. In Alberta (Marmot Basin pictured) and BC on the eastern side there’s been much more natural snowfall though with 10-20cm accumulations on multiple days. Whistler is getting closer to being fully open and has some of the deepest snow now in North America, as well as the most terrain open at over 6,000 acres.
USA
A pretty good week for much of the US with fresh heavy snowfalls on the West Coast and temperatures dropping back down below freezing with some decent accumulations on the East Coast (where they’re needed most), too. The Rockies had had a dry December, at least at the Colorado end and for parts of Utah, but there has been at least some snowfall; here too and centres are opening more terrain regardless, most are 60-80% open now. The heaviest snowfall has again been on the West Coast though with the Pacific Northwest corner of North America posting the deepest snow in the continent at present – approaching 3 metres (10 feet) up top. Keystone pictured. The coming week should be a little snowier, particularly on the west coast where there are big falls expected further north.
**** Updated Friday, 20 December, 2024 ****
Where is Good to Ski Right Now?
It’s full wintertime at last (by the calendar we mean), whichever way you measure the seasons and we’re also about to start one of the peak weeks of the season with Christmas arriving fast. Ski areas are battling to outdo each other to open as much terrain as they can to cope with the crowds and stand out from their competitors. That’s looking easier this week in Western North America, which has seen some huge snowfalls over the last seven days, dumping up to five feet of snow on coastal mountains.
In Europe it’s been a more mixed picture with some weekend snowfalls and a return to colder, snowier conditions now, but only after a midweek ‘blip’ which saw temperatures climb as high as +12C and rain to high altitudes in the Alps. That was followed by blizzards on Thursday night though and there are now very low temps and up to a metre of snow set to fall before Christmas Day, so hang on to your ski hats, it’s a weather roller coaster! The big picture is generally positive with most resorts rapidly approaching full operations for the coming festive fortnight.
Austria
All of Austria’s big areas are now open for the season, but there has been a bit of a weather shock for lower-lying centres after several weeks of cold and snowy weather abruptly ended as temperatures climbed to +10C or higher by the afternoons in the first half of this week. Things are now moving back in the right direction with the numbers now well below freezing again and snowfall starting to return, expected to be heavy at times in the run up to Christmas with freezing temperatures down to valley floors. As centres had not fully opened anyway it is hard to know if there’s been much impact, but that will become clearer this week as resorts open as much terrain as they can for the Christmas holidays. So far it’s areas like Ischgl, Kitzbuhel and the Arlberg around Lech and St Anton that have been close to fully open already. Kuhtai pictured this week.
France
French ski areas saw cold temperatures and fresh snowfall at the weekend, although also had issues with low visibility and strong winds. The start of this week brought the same warm temperatures here as elsewhere in Western Europe, with low-lying slopes hardest hit by the temperature surge , but then rain right up to 2,000m on Thursday. Here too though it’s now getting colder again with fresh snowfall well-timed for the start of the Christmas and New Year holidays. Les arcs posted video of blizzard conditions on Thursday evening as temperature plummetted. Les 3 Valleys has the most terrain open in the world so far, more than half of its 600km of terrain, and that’s expected to jump this coming weekend as the other giant French ski domains open up most of their slopes too. Les 2 Alpes’ new Jandri Express pictured.
Italy
Southern Italian ski areas saw some of the warmest temperatures in the first half of this week, reaching +13C at low elevations. Again the warm snap was fairly short-lived, impacting most from Monday to Wednesday and here too temperatures are dropping fast and there’s some fresh snowfall forecast through to Christmas. But the manicured pistes of machine-made snow in the Dolomites don’t seem to have been badly impacted and Val Gardena, which has the most terrain wholly in Italy currently open (175km of slopes – Cervinia has a little more if you include linked terrain on the Swiss side), is up to about 98% open. Val Senales pictured.
Switzerland
Swiss centres saw the same jump in temperatures over the first half of this week as the rest of the Alps, but things are now moving in the right direction again with the stats dropping back well below freezing and snowfall returning. In fact huge accvumulations are expected between now and Christmas – up to 1.2m/four feet, with perhaps just a break for sunshine on Saturday. The country’s big ski areas including the Engadin around St Moritz, the 4 Valleys around Verbier and the huge Zermatt-Cervinia cross-border domain are all winding up for full operations this coming week as the peak Christmas-New Year holiday begins. Verbier is pictured above.
Pyrenees
The ski season in the Pyrenees got underway last week after several weeks of delay waiting for a good snowfall. Now that’s happened there’s been a big race between the bigger centres to open the most terrain as quickly as possible, Both Andorra’s Grandvalira and Spain’s Baqueira Beret got up to around 100km each by Sunday but unfortunately, as in the Alps, temperatures rose from subzero to nearer +10C at bases in the latter half of this week. It is now getting colder again though with snow showers starting to return and temperatures back below freezing. Europe’s most southerly ski area Sierra Nevada is also open. Formigal pictured.
Scandinavia
Western Norway has been dumped on over the past week with lots of ski areas there seeing up to 50cm of snowfall and temperatures in the freezing to -8C range. Further east and north it’s been colder but drier, with just some light snowfalls. In the far north around Lapland, Polar Nighttime is here and the sun isn’t getting above the horizon again until early 20-25 at resorts like Finland’s Levi. Bases remain pretty thin in most areas with only 5-20% of terrain open yet at many. Hemsedal is doing one of the best with 25% of its runs open. Skimore Oslo pictured above, Voss top.
Eastern Europe
Early season conditions continue to be good across Eastern Europe, with plenty of fresh snowfall this week on top of initial bases. Bansko (pictured above) in Bulgaria has a 1.3m base after more snowfall at the weekend and about 80% of its terrain is open already – two of the best stats in the ski world right now. Temperatures kept low in Northeastern Europe when they rose in the Alps, staying down below 4C in Slovakia where Jasna has about 60% of its slopes open.
Scotland
After Glencoe and the Lecht opened last week, warm, wet and windy weather hit the Scottish Highlands from Sunday, wiping out Glencoe’s natural snow terrain. The machine made snow at its base and that of The Lecht just about survived though, reopening this weekend, and Cairngorm and Glenshee plan to open for the season from this coming week using their own all-weather snowmaking machines to cover limited terrain. The good news is that it is getting colder now with rain expected to turn increasingly to fresh snowfall (eg at Glencoe above on Thursday). The bad news is that violent gales are forecast through this weekend.
Canada
It’s been a snowy week in Canada with the country and continent’s biggest resort, Whistler Blackcomb, reporting a 50cm accumulation at the weekend and reporting it’s now more than 75% open. The good start to the season in the region has also been underlined by Revelstoke passing the 4 metres seasonal snowfall to date mark, with their season only just beginning. Over on the East, things are rather more marginal with ski centres in Ontario and Quebec struggling to open much terrain as yet due to thin cover. Things are looking good across Canada for Christmas week though with low temperatures and more snow forecast. Marmot Basin is pictured top.
USA
There have been some huge snowfalls in the Western US this week with some ski areas in California posting up to five feet of snowfall (The Palisades is pictured above at the height of the storm). The snow has been falling right up the West Coast though leaving epic powder conditions. Initially of course that volume of snowfall did cause logistical issues, especially as gale-force winds brought blizzard conditions at times, but things have quietened down now. There have been good snowfalls, if not such huge ones in the Northern Rockies too and whilst New England has had further issues with warm temperatures and rain, it is looking increasingly cold and snowy there too.
**** Updated Friday, 13 December, 2024 ****
Where is Good to Ski Right Now?
After a few quiet weeks, Europe saw its first heavy snowfalls of the month this week, with temperatures dipping below freezing right down to sea level too. Accumulations of several feet in 48 hours were reported by some centres in the north and west of the Alps, but most resorts got at least some snowfall. At the same time, more and more resorts have been opening and those already open have been opening more and more terrain.
We now have 10 centres in Europe with at least 100km of slopes open already, about three-quarters of them in Austria where competition between resorts is the most intense. The Pyrenees – where nowhere had been able to open for lack of snow – also got a big dump so things are changing for the better there.
There’s been less fresh snowfall across in North America after the snowy November there, but it has been snowing in most areas with the East Coast, which needed it most, seeing some more good falls and the Pacific Northwest, which already had the most snow, getting another big dump of powder.
Austria
It’s been a good week in Austria with some moderate to large snowfalls through the week, heaviest at the weekend, with cold temperatures too, right down to valley floors. Around half of the country’s ski areas are open now, including almost all of the big areas, which are battling to offer the most terrain. Ischgl, St Antoin’s Arlberg region, Saalbach, Solden and newly opened Mayrhofen all have around 100km of slopes or more open already, with Ischgl’s 170km at the weekend the most in the country. The new snow has also bolstered meagre early-season cover and the cold allowed snowmakers to continue to build bases at valley level. It’s looking cold and sunny for the next few days with just light snowfall forecast at the weekend, sunny again next week.
France
Most of the big ski regions in the French Alps have now opened for their 24-25 season or will be doing so this weekend. Last weekend saw the slopes of (already open) Tignes and Val d’Isere connect for 24-25 and the various sectors of the 3 Valleys all open to join Val Thorens, however, it was initially Serre Chevalier that posted the most terrain open in the country as it opened, about 75km of its slopes, about 30% of its full terrain. The 3 Valleys is now back in the top spot with about half its 600km of runs open now. Paradiski will open this weekend, with La Plagne going for a preview opening last weekend. The same was true for Avoriaz also, with more of The Portes du Soliel as well as the Grand Massif opening. Conditions are looking increasingly good after centres saw several feet (60cm+) of weekend snowfall down to low elevations and cold weather since. It’s been a lovely sunny, cold week and that should continue next week, but there should be a little light weekend snowfall in the mix too. Avalanche danger is up to 3 on the scale to 5 – considerable. Les Angles in the French Pyrenees pictured.
Italy
Italy’s Val Gardena opened for the season at the weekend, immediately overtaking already-open Kronplatz, to offer 150km of slopes, the most in the country and about 80% of its full area, from day one. It’s now up to 170km. Italy saw some good snowfalls at the weekend and start of this week, especially in the north and west. Folgàrida – Marilléva linked to Madonna di Campiglio in the Trentino region posted a 35cm accumulation in 24 hours on Sunday with plenty of other areas coming close. More than 100 Italian centres are now open with most of the rest set to join them either this weekend or the one after – which marks the start of Christmas week. Mostly sunny weather dominating the coming week, cold though with some weekend snowfall possible. Passo Tonale pictured.
Switzerland
There’ve been some good snowfalls in Switzerland this week with Davos, Engleberg, Laax and Verbier (pictured top this week) among areas posting 24-hour accumulations of 20-30cm as part of a week of cold and sometimes snowy weather. Most of the country’s main ski areas are now open with the cross-border ski areas of Zermatt-Cervinia (Italy – pictured above) and Samnaun-Ishgl (Austria) posting the most terrain open so far., both at 160 and 170km respectively at the time of writing, although those numbers keep going up. Cold temperatures, as low as -20C with clear skies this week and more forecast with some light snowfall at the weekend.
Pyrenees
After a predominantly warm and dry autumn, the snow clouds finally rolled into the Pyrenees at the weekend and dumped big time, transforming slopes from pretty bare to two feet deep in snow. There have also been cold temperatures for additional snowmaking systems to fire up. As a result, the region is quickly going from nowhere open to everywhere trying to open for their 24-25 seasons as soon as possible. Large resorts including Grandvalira and Baqueira Beret are already there. The weather has calmed down and it’s clear but cold now, more snowfall is expected next week.
Scandinavia
Cold weather with light to moderate snowfall across Scandinavia this week and almost all of the region’s larger resorts are now open. But most areas, large and small, only have a kilometre or two of terrain open each at this point. Norway’s Bjorli has the most at 8km, much more than larger areas like Hemsedal and Trysil or Sweden’s Are. They’ll be opening much more terrain over the next few weeks of course, although bases remain very thin at this point. Staying cold with light snowfall forecast.
Eastern Europe
It continues to look good for the early season at most eastern European ski areas. Many have had more significant snowfalls this past week, coupled with low temperatures and most of those that have not yet opened will be doing so this weekend. Bulgaria’s Bansko has had the most terrain open – about 80% of its slopes – with Slovakia’s Jasna also looking good for the early weeks of the season.
Scotland
Scottish ski areas picked up to 30cm of snowfall from storm Darragh at the weekend, which was followed by subzero temperatures, keeping the snow that the wind hadn’t blown off, on the mountain tops. Glencoe (pictured above), already open to ski tourers and splitboarders using its Access Chairlift to get quickly to the newly fallen snow, opened its first inbounds terrain on Wednesday as temperatures stayed low. The Lecht plans to join them with a small area of machine-made snow at the weekend and Cairngorm and Glenshee may join the party too, although temperatures are also expected to rise a little into next week.
Canada
There’s been mostly light snowfall across Canada over the past week, particularly welcome in the East where ski areas had been struggling to open after a warm autumn, but also bringing powder conditions to destination resorts in the west which reported 20-40cm of fresh powder on top of healthy bases to get this week off to a good start. Almost all ski areas in Alberta and BC are now open with Red Mountain among those starting their seasons last weekend. Whistler Blackcomb now has the most terrain open in North America moving up towards 6,000 acres already, getting near 70% of its terrain. It’s forecast to stay cold with light snowfall in the west and, unfortunately, warmer with rain showers at times again in the east. Tremblant is pictured above on a snowier day though.
USA
Most of the fresh snowfall in the US this week has been reported on the East Coast again (Jay Peak in Vermont pictured above), where, to be fair, it is most needed after, like Canada above, a rather mild autumn with not much snowfall and temperatures often too warm for snowmaking. That’s hopefully behind us now though with most resorts in the region open for 24-25, although the forecast does sadly point to more warm, damp conditions in the East next week. Despite not much fresh snowfall recently conditions continue pretty good in the West., Mammoth Mountain is among the areas that already have almost all of their slopes open. Vail Resorts has opened its Back Bowls historically early too. Staying cold and mostly dry with light snowfall, heaviest in the north, for the west of the country.
**** Updated Friday, 6 December, 2024 ****
Where is Good to Ski Right Now?
Several hundred ski areas have now opened across the Northern Hemisphere as the 24-25 season continues to gain momentum. Most areas only have 5-20% of their terrain open at this early stage but a few are going all-in from the start, including Austria’s Obertauern, Colorado’s Wolf Creek and Canada’s Sun Peaks, which all have all or most of their slopes open already.
This week some of the biggest snowfalls have been in the eastern US, where it was most needed and with the main season start only a few weeks away we’re starting to see which regions are looking best at this early point. North America’s Northwest corner is posting the deepest snow so far whilst things are looking close to average in the Alps and Rockies. Some areas including the Pyrenees, Scandinavia and, despite that snow, Eastern North America, still have some catching up to do though.
Austria
It’s been a largely good week in Austria with freezing temperatures down below 1,000m altitudes and some light to moderate snowfalls through the week, with just occasional rain during warmer spells at lower elevations. There’s a lot more snow forecast over the next few days. More than 40 Austrian ski areas have now opened and there’s a battle going on to see which can offer early skiers the most terrain. So far Ischgl is the first in Europe to offer more than 100km of slopes but others, including Solden, are not far behind. The weekend should bring heavier snowfalls lining things up nicely for the coming weeks. The Arlberg opened for the season on Thursday, Lech is pictured above just before the lifts started turning.
France
It’s been an increasingly cold and snowy week in the French Alps with heavier snowfall forecast now forecast into next week. Half-a-dozen more ski areas opened at the weekend, joining already-open Tignes and Val Thorens (pictured above). You can now also ski already at Alpe d’Huez, Les 2 Alpes and Montrgenevre among others, with Avoriaz opening early for a ‘preview weekend’ last weekend. La Plagne plans to do the same this weekend but other resorts including Serre Chevalier, Courchevel, Les Menuires and Meribel will be opening daily, the latter three initiating the links in the 3 Valleys from Saturday too.
Italy
Italy has had a fairly promising first week of December with increasingly wintery conditions and more snowfall forecast. About 20 Italian ski areas have opened already and that number should treble at the weekend. Among those opening in Kronplatz, in Dolomiti Superski which has 50km of slopes open already. Cortina d’Ampezzo, Livigno and Madonna di Campiglio (pictured) are also now open. The deepest snow is on the glaciers, Cervinia has 1.5m lying and the most terrain accessible including over to Zermatt, 95km at present and likely to increase this weekend.
Switzerland
About a dozen Swiss centres had already opened in November but most just did so at weekends. Now though they’re opening 7-days and extending the amount of terrain available with Samnaun-Ischgl and Zermatt-Cervinia both over 100km, Verbier (above, last week) and the 4 Valleys are up to 50km. Quite heavy snowfall is expected across Switzerland over the coming few days.
Pyrenees
Alas, we are still waiting for the season to start in the Pyrenees, hopefully this coming weekend when a big accumulation has been forecast. Essentially it has been too warm and mostly dry for the past month although there has been some snowfall this week and higher slopes have seen some low overnight temperatures which should have allowed snowmaking systems to start, but we are now several weeks behind the target date for the first resorts in the region to open. Colder weather and heavier snowfall are forecast next week. Grand Tourmalet in France, pictured above earlier this week, is due to open from Saturday.
Scandinavia
As with the Pyrenees, it has not been an epic autumn for Scandi ski areas, with temperatures too often rather warm compared to what they should be and rain rather than snowfall. Things have been improving but so far, with a few notable exceptions like Geilo and Kvitfjell, it’s mostly small resorts open in Norway and Sweden with the bigger destination resorts delaying their season starts so far. Up in Finland, it’s a different picture though with all the big resorts open, if only offering a few kilometres of slopes each.
Eastern Europe
The season is underway now in parts of Eastern Europe with the first resorts open in Czechia, Poland and Slovakia amongst others. Most centres have had a good covering of natural snowfall with key runs topped up with snowmaking., The region’s biggest resort Slovakia’s Jasna, was amongst the areas opening with Czechia’s Spindleruv Mlyn expected to join it this weekend, opening earlier than planned. Bulgaria’s 24-25 season is due to start imminently and was boosted by a big 50cm weekend snowfall in Bansko (above, this week), raising anticipation dramatically.
Scotland
Scottish centres have had their usual mix of weather, with very warm temperatures at the weekend (Up almost 20 degrees from midweek last week), dropping again, if not quite so dramatically as they rose, at the start of this week. There was fresh snowfall on Scottish hills but not yet enough for anywhere to open. Glencoe (pictured above on Wednesday, cam credit Winter Highland), Glenshee, The Lecht and Cairngorm are believed to all have their snow-factory all-weather snowmaking machines running, with most saying (unless there’s a good snowfall beforehand enabling them to open early), they’ll most likely open for Christmas week. Glencoe will probably go sooner than that, initially with a sledging and nursery slope area.
Canada
Western Canada continues to line up some of the best early-season conditions in the world with a number of BC resorts posting 2m+ November snowfall totals and Whistler announcing it hopes to stretch to 5,000 acres of terrain open from this Friday. Until now, Eastern Canada has had a poor autumn for snowfall with warm temperatures dominating and the FIS forced to cancel this weekend’s planned World Cup racing at Tremblant for lack of snow. It is now though more consistently colder with some snow showers as well as snowmaking-friendly overnight lows. Tremblant reported a powder day with about a foot of snowfall on Thursday (above and top).
USA
The US has had a pretty good week right across the country following the race to open for Thanksgiving. The heaviest snowfall was actually in the Great Lakes region where some centres saw December records of 2 feet or more of snowfall in 24 hours. There are lots of small ski areas in the region that were delighted after the dry autumn, but few that people outside the area know of. Turning to the bigger resorts, the East Coast got the snow and cold weather it had been waiting for allowing more centres to open (Jay Peak in Vermont pictured on Thursday). Elsewhere the destination resorts of the Rockies and West Coast continued to open more terrain. At this early stage, Mammoth Mountain in California is looking good, almost fully open. Utah’s Alta also has most of its runs open.
**** Updated Friday, 29 November, 2024 ****
Where is Good to Ski Right Now?
There have been some big snowfalls in North America in the past few days, with ski areas in states including California and Colorado reporting half-a-metre or more of fresh snow. For example at Arapahoe Basin in Colorado below.
It’s been a drier week in the Alps although there’s been some light to moderate snow showers for some and very low temperatures up high allowing snowmaking systems to fire up.
Hundreds of ski areas are now open in the Alps, Scandinavia and North America and the numbers are set to double this weekend as hundreds more kick off their 24-25 seasons too.
Austria
Austrian ski areas posted images of snowy conditions on Wednesday and Thursday offering rapidly improving conditions. Ski centres that are within the biggest areas in the country including Ischgl, Ellmau (in the Skiwelt – pictured above on Thursday) and Schladming are among the non-glacier resorts that have now opened along with parts of the huge Silvretta Montafon region. With several dozen ski areas now open the focus has switched to who has the most terrain open? Currently, Solden, Obergurgl and Ischgl are leading the way with 60-75km open each.
France
The French ski season got underway at the weekend with Tignes and Val Thorens the first to open. After the big snowfalls last week both reported the snow lying a metre deep already on their highest slopes. It has been a drier week since then, although with more snow showers and some very low temperatures, as cold as -15C on high slopes, at times. This coming weekend should see more resorts opening including Alpe d’Huez, Montgenevre (pictured above this week), La Rosiere, Val d’Isere, the first area in the Chamonix Valley and Les 2 Alpes.
Italy
Italy’s season is fast picking up pace with several more centres open this week including 3 Zinnen Dolomites and Cortina d’Ampezzo. Both only have a mile or so of slopes open initially. It’s been a largely sunny week in most Italian areas with just a little light snowfall midweek for some, but temperatures have been very low, double-digits below freezing overnight, which has been good news for snowmaking. Lots more Italian centres plan to open this week including Madonna di Campiglio above.
Switzerland
The Swiss ski season is going from strength to strength with more big-name resorts opening including Crans Montana and Samnaun. Others, like Verbier, that have been opening weekends in November up to now, have opened more terrain and switched to a daily opening from now on. There’s been some light to moderate snowfalls this week in between lovely sunny weather. Temperatures have allowed for more snowmaking too. Zermatt has the most terrain open at present, doubling what was available last week to about 60km, but it is now a fast-moving picture.
Pyrenees
There’s nowhere currently open but the 24-25 ski season is expected to start in the Pyrenees this weekend with some of the big players including Spain’s Baqueira Beret and the region’s largest area, Grandvalira, expected to open. However it has been dry, sunny and warm at times in recent weeks with the freezing point moving between 2,000 and 3,000m altitudes, so it remains to be seen how many ski areas will manage to open and how much terrain those that do have available for their opening weekend.
Scandinavia
A mixed picture from Scandinavia with more centres open but some of the big resorts are still not opening and setting back their opening dates due to inadequate snow cover. It has continued cold though, with lows down to -15C at times. But some have had warm weather and rain at times. New openings though include Norway’s Geilo with a foot of snow lying and just a first mile of slopes open so far. Kvitfjell is also open with similar stats. In Finland, all four main centres (Pyha, Ruka, Levi -above – and Yllas) are now all open.
Eastern Europe
Cold and snowy weather has been reported in most Eastern European ski nations. The season has already got underway in the region with Czech Republic’s Černá Hora one of the first to open. One of the largest, Jasna, is amongst those opening for 24-25 reporting great early-season conditions. Bulgaria’s season is expected to start later in December.
Scotland
Scottish ski centres had a boost, kind of, from Storm Bert last weekend. A boost on Saturday when up to a foot of snow fell, but then Bert took it all away (or a lot of it) with warmer, windy, wet weather on Sunday. Since then, temperatures have been doing their usual yoyoing between +10C and subzero but Glencoe has got its all-weather snowmaking machine working so hopefully some terrain will be able to open soon.
Canada
The season has started to get underway on Canada’s East Coast this week after some delays caused by a mostly warm November, but the biggest resort Tremblant in Quebec has now opened so things are starting to happen. Over on the West Coast, there have been no problems with ski areas here posting the biggest autumn snowfalls in the world so far – up to 3 metres/10 feet. Newly opened Sun Peaks has the most terrain open in the country so far, about 80% of its slopes. Larger Whistler Blackcomb isn’t too far behind it though with about 30% of its slopes open.
USA
The Thanksgiving Weekend is underway in the US and most of the country’s destination resorts have opened in time to be able to offer ski holidays to anyone wanting to get in some early season turns. Park City in Utah, the country’s biggest, was among the latest to do so. It joins lots of famous names like Aspen, Breckenridge, Heavenly and Mammoth Mountain that have already opened. The deepest snow continues to be in the Pacific Northwest corner of the country where some centres have already had more than six feet of snowfall, the most in the country so far this autumn. The past few days has seen 50-60cm accumulations at resorts including Keystone, above. It’s less good news on the East Coast where resorts have been struggling to open, but there has been some colder, snowier weather here too this week and the World Cup Alpine Ski Racing tour rolls into Killington with Mikaela Shiffrin hoping to secure her 100th further underlining her Greatest Of All Time status.
**** Updated Friday, 22 November, 2024 ****
Where is Good to Ski Right Now?
North America’s season continues to gather pace, with many of the continent’s biggest areas now open or opening this weekend, including the largest, Canada’s Whistler Blackcomb and America’s Park City. Conditions have remained wintery in the north and west, with two major systems currently impacting both the West and North East Coast. Both are expected to bring stormy weather with plenty of snowfall on higher ground.
In Europe the Alps are seeing much needed snowfall, apparently heaviest in the west where some high slopes have reported more than 60cm (two feet) accumulated with more forecast into the weekend. More resorts are opening including big names like Davos and Italy’s Madonna di Campiglio as well as the first centres in France for 24-25, Tignes and Val Thorens (pictured top, this week).
Elsewhere in Europe there are positive signs of snow covered slopes in Scandinavia, Scotland, Eastern Europe and down in the Pyrenees. Most need more snow to open and hadn’t planned to until the start of December but Slovakia’s Jasna (above) is expected to open soon.
In the wider world, Japan’s season is also coming up fast and there have been a few promising early snowfalls there too.
Austria
It’s been snowing across Austria down to low levels, with St Anton posting snowy images earlier this week. After Obergurgl opened last week, the latest ski area to open is Obertauern (above). Ski resorts have been reporting temperatures low enough for snowmaking down to 1000m with St Johann in Tirol amongst them. Solden has the most terrain open in the country so far, 70km of slopes already, also one of the largest areas in the world, neighbouring Obergurgl which hosts World Cup ski racing this weekend isn’t far behind with 50km there. Unfortunately, the week ahead looks mostly sunny, but staying very cold, in fact into the -20s on high slopes at the weekend, so good for snowmaking.
France
It’s the big day coming up on Saturday with Tignes and Val Thorens both expected to kick off the French 24-25 season at last. Both are believed to have had more than half-a-metre of snowfall this week, hopefully good news for the season start. Sunnier weather is expected for opening weekend before more snowfall arrives next week and more resorts open for the final Saturday of November. Les Arcs is pictured – opening in three weeks.
Italy
Italy, too, has seen plenty of fresh snowfall over the last few days after another mostly dry and sunny, but cooler week. The snowfall has been heaviest so far in the west but is expected to continue into the weekend. Four centres are open so far with Cervinia (pictured above, credit Linos bar) offering the most terrain thanks to its link with Zermatt, although more terrain has opened on the Italian side since Wednesday. San Martino di Castrozza and Madonna di Campiglio are expected to open for their 24-25 seasons this weekend.
Switzerland
We’re up to about a dozen ski areas open in Switzerland although only about a quarter of these are open daily at present, the majority just open at weekends., Verbier (pictured above this week) was one of the latest to open but you can also already ski at Adelboden, Engelberg, Gstaad (Glacier 3000), Saas Fee and St Moritz among others. Andermatt opens this weekend. There’s been a good snowfall this week, heaviest in the West, with Zermatt reporting at least 50cm on its higher slopes. The week ahead will be cold but mostly dry and sunny with light snow flurries.
Scandinavia
It’s expected to be the big season-opening weekend in Norway and Sweden with the region’s largest resorts including Hemsedal, Geilo and Trysil in Norway and the biggest resort in Sweden, Åre, all expected to open. They join Finland’s largest areas Levi and Ruka which have already been open for six weeks, more larger Finnish centres including Pyha and Yllas are expected to open too. Temperatures are remaining subzero around the clock in most areas now, it’s also getting dark in the north with just a few hours of daylight each day so slopes are floodlit all day. There have been light to moderate snowfalls and there’s more forecast in the coming week.
Canada
BC is opening this weekend with Whistler Blackcomb, North America’s biggest resort, opening early on Thursday and several other areas including Big White and Silver Star also getting their seasons underway. Another of Canada’s big players, Sun Peaks, is opening on schedule with all lifts running and more than 70 trails available – so one of the largest areas open in the world from this weekend. BC has had some of the biggest November snowfalls with not-yet-open Revelstoke reporting more than 2.5m of snowfall so far there. Alberta is also looking pretty good with all three Banff areas open and Marmot Basin near Jasper (pictured above on Thursday) opening this weekend. It’s less good news in the East of the country where centres have been struggling to open with warmer than usual autumn weather, but it is now getting colder here too.
USA
It’s looking good in the western US with most of the leading resorts now open, or opening this weekend. They include America’s largest, Park City in Utah, opening on Saturday. In California, The Palisades will join already open Heavenly and Mammoth this weekend and Aspen is opening early too, in Colorado, joining Vail and 10 other centres already open in the state. A lot of areas have opened early, crediting the good snowfalls. Alas, the news from the East Coast is not so positive with some ski areas here announcing opening delays as it has been too warm. A few like Killington and Sunday River have some high runs open though. The good news, kind of, is that extreme weather, hopefully bringing plenty of snow, is forecast imminently for both East and West coasts.
**** Updated Thursday, 14 November, 2024 ****
Where is Good to Ski Right Now?
Things are starting to get exciting on both sides of the Atlantic. There was a return to snowy weather in the Alps on Tuesday and very cold temperatures and heavy snow are forecast for the start of next week too. In North America dozens of US ski areas have opened across the country, many of them early due to great early snowfalls. There’s also been snowfall in the Pyrenees (Pra Loup pictured below), parts of Eastern Europe and the snow guns have fired up in Bulgaria too. There’s even cold weather, sleet and snow forecast for the UK next week. Winter is coming!
Austria
Obergurgl is the latest and ninth Austrian ski area to open for the season as it stays just ahead of Switzerland in terms of the number of centres open. It joins the country’s seven glacier ski areas which have been open since September in some cases. Kitzbuhel also opened for its 24-25 season last weekend, but in its case, its using snow farming to dip so, spread snow stockpiled over summer from last season back out to create a kilometre long slope.
That’s probably a wise move as a third sunny week had meant no natural snowfall yet on the Austrian Alps this month, although temperatures have been dipping allowing some snowmaking systems to fire up and there was some snowfall on Wednesday night, including at Pitztal pictured above. There’s also a good snow dump forecast for the start of next week.
France
It’s just a week now until the French ski season is due to begin with Tignes and Val Thorens aiming to open next weekend around November 22/23. Much of this month has been rather dry and sunny so its not yet clear how much these early openers will be able to offer, but it is now colder and cold enough for snowmaking at times and Tuesday saw snowfalls of up to 10cm across the French Alps (Risoul pictured). Next week heavy snowfall is forecast with very low temperatures so that could be perfect timing.
Italy
Like France, Italy’s ski season hasn’t really got going yet. Here too a number of leading resorts are aiming to open for the final week of November but most are aiming to start their seasons for the first or second weeks of December. That’s probably good news as we’ve had a third successive week of mostly sunny November weather. The good news though is that temperatures have been creeping lower so snowmaking temperatures have been hit on higher slopes overnight whilst the freezing point has got down to valley floors. There was some snowfall, heaviest in the west, on Tuesday. With some high areas usually open by now delaying starting their lifts, its currently just Val Senales open, with just 2km of slopes there and Cervinia providing access to Zermatt’s glacier area, where about 25km of runs are open so far. However, Val Senales says it plans to open more terrain this weekend and another area, Sulden (pictured top) is also due to open.
Switzerland
Verbier is the latest Swiss resort to announce opening plans, this weekend, taking the to a number of Swiss areas open close to double figures with plenty of famous names including Adelboden, Engelberg, Gstaad (Glacier 3000 pictured above), Murren, Saas Fee, St Moritz and Zermatt already having at least some terrain open. Zermatt is up to 30km of slopes available already in fact, one of the biggest areas in the Alps. It’s been snowing here too and temperatures dropping as well, with a big snowfall forecast for Monday-Tuesday next week and more unsettled, hopefully wintry conditions thereafter.
Scandinavia
Temperatures have started dropping again in Scandinavia after another warm spell. Few ski areas are open yet but that is expected to change quite soon with many of the big names looking at this coming weekend to start their seasons, including Norway’s Trysil and the region’s largest, Sweden’s Are. It’s a big weekend in the region with Finland’s Levi hosting the next round of the Alpine Skiing World Cup with Britain’s Dave Ryding expected to start his 24-25 campaign in the slalom.
Canada
Four Canadian ski areas were open last week as the season got started there. Banff’s Sunshine, Lake Louise and Nakiska, which is the closest to Calgary. Each opened with a few kilometres of runs available a piece. This weekend will see Sun Peaks, the first centre in BC to open for the season and should also see the third Banff area, Mt Norquay open. It’s BC that’s been posting some of the biggest snowfalls anywhere through November with yet-to-open Revelstoke amongst those reporting over a 1.2m fallen so far and predicting an epic season. Whistler Blackcomb opens next week and Quebec’s season is also getting underway at Sommet St Sauveur in the East.
USA
After the big excitement last weekend when more than a dozen ski areas including big names like Breckenridge, Copper Mountain and Winter Park opened for the season there’s been no real drop in momentum with more big names like Vail and the largest in the US, California’s Mammoth Mountain and Utah’s Park City, scheduled to open for this weekend. It’s been a drier, sunnier week than recently in Colorado but it has remained cold and the snow has kept falling up in the Pacific Northwest which long term forecasters expect is in for a bumper season for snowfall. It’s also turned colder with snowmaking systems fired up since last weekend on the East Coast and Vermont’s Killington and Maine’s Sunday River (pictured above yesterday) quickly opening some advanced terrain to start the season there on Thursday.
**** Updated Saturday, 9 November, 2024 ****
Where is Good to Ski Right Now?
Welcome to the 24-25 ski season! It’s early days t Now?of course but already 50 ski centres have opened in 10 countries across three continents thanks to either their glaciers, their altitude or just getting lucky with early heavy snowfall. Six centres have opened in Europe thanks to snow-farming …that means using last winter’s snow, stockpiled through summer, then spread back out on the slopes, to each reveal a mile or two of slopes. One centre in Japan, Yeti ski are below, is open thanks to all-weather snowmaking.
The FIS World Cup 24-25 tour already got underway in Solden in the Austrian Tirol in October and the next stage is coming up at Levi in Finland next weekend.
After Europe saw some great early snowfalls down to low levels in September and October the past few weeks have seen drier, sunny weather which has led to lovely days on Alpine glaciers, but hasn’t been great news for any hope of snowmaking or early season base building. However, it is looking cooler and snowier next week.
North America has been where it’s been at over recent weeks instead with two dozen ski areas open this weekend after several feet of snowfall in the west – that’s about five times what was open last weekend! Newly opened include the first centres in Canada for 24-25 as well as the first to open in the states of Arizona, Idaho, New Mexico and Utah. Colorado already has nine centres open!
Austria
Austria always has the most ski areas open for most of the autumn thanks to its many glacier centres and 2024 has been no different with seven areas already open. They also have more terrain open than other European centres with Solden, Hintertux (pictured above on Friday) and the Stubai all posting more than 20km of runs open already. You can also ski at the Kitzsteinhorn above Kaprun, Pitztal, Kaunertal and Molltal glaciers. Depending on how you look at it fortunately/unfortunately the past fortnight has been dry and sunny and that weather is expected to continue into next week. But it is getting cooler, the freezing point moving down from 4,000 to 2,000-metre altitudes. In the meantime, the glaciers have been reporting glorious conditions on their groomed runs. An eighth area, Kitzbuhel, will open for its season this weekend, in its case using snow-farmed snow recycled from last winter.
France
There’s nowhere open yet in France, but the season is coming up in France. Tignes, Val Thorens and parts of the Chamonix Valley are expected to be the first to open for 24-25 in a fortnight.
Italy
Italy has just one ski area open actually on Italian soil at present – Val Senales. There are just a couple of kilometres of slopes open on the glacier there. The Passo Stelvio summer ski area ended its 2024 run last Sunday and usually, there are two or three other high, snow-sure Italian ski areas opening to replace it, but this autumn it seems the recent warm, dry weather has led them to delay opening for a week or two more. You can though ski at Zermatt’s glacier ski area, one of the largest currently open anywhere with 25km of slopes open already, with lifts running up from Cervinia on the Italian side.
Switzerland
Switzerland is fast catching up with Austria in terms of areas open – with seven expected to be open this weekend. However, most of these centres are currently only opening Friday to Sunday at this early stage, with just Saas Fee and Zermatt trying to open every day. But weekend glacier skiing is also currently possible at Engelberg, St Moritz (the Diavolezza Glacier) and Gstaad (Glacier 3000) whilst Adelboden and Murren also have small snowy areas open thanks to snowfarming, spreading last season’s snow stockpiled through summer back out on the slopes. Switzerland has had the same fortnight of predominantly dry and sunny weather as the rest of the Alps but temperatures have been dropping and there are some signs of change on the way next week.
Scandinavia
Some colder weather and snowfall have been reported for northern Scandinavia and snowmaking guns have fired up in some of the bigger resorts like Hemsedal. However, so far it’s only smaller centres in Norway and Sweden open thanks to snow farming or glaciers. Finland’s bigger resorts Levi (above) and Ruka have been open for over a month already, also thanks to snowfarming, but both just have a few kilometres of slopes open so far.
Canada
Canada’s ski season got underway this week with Lake Louise the first in the country to open (above). It’s been joined by three more Calgary ski areas, fellow Banff resort Sunshine, Marmot Basin near Jasper and Nakiska, the closest resort to Calgary, which is initially opening just at weekends. Rather ironically the most snowfall this past week though has been reported further west in BC, where up to two feet of fresh snow has been reported, which looks to be setting areas up well for the season to start later this month or early December. Sun Peaks is due to open first in just over a week.
USA
The US is jumping from 4 to 20 ski areas open this weekend with nine centres open in Colorado alone. The change follows some big snowfalls over the past week which saw some ski areas in Colorado and other states in the region post up to 24” (60cm) snowfall totals. Whilst Colorado sees some big names like Breckenridge, Copper Mountain, Purgatory and Winter Park opening this weekend, joining already-open centres like Arapahoe Basin, Keystone and Wolf Creek; the season also gets started in four more states. Arizona Snowbowl is opening in its namesake state (pictured above), Idaho’s Lookout Pass is opening and so are the first for 24-25 in Utah, Brian Head (pictured below and top) and Solitude. No less than three resorts have opened in New Mexico too, and there are now two choices in Nevada including the first at Tahoe, Mt Rose. It joins already open Lee Canyon, the closest centre to Las Vegas. After the recent snowfall, it looks like it will be mostly dry and sunny again in Colorado although with some double-digits below zero Celsius temperatures into next week, with a chance of moderate snowfalls midweek further north. Mammoth and Vail are due to open this coming week.
**** Updated Friday, 1 March, 2024 ****
Where is Good to Ski Right Now?
Spring is here (by the meteorological measure of the seasons), so it’s perhaps typical that after months of ‘springlike’ conditions in the Alps, the past few days have been decidedly wintry!
It’s obviously good news though, with resorts posting up to a metre and a half of new snow over the last week, giving the slopes a base boost perfectly timed for the final month or two of the season. The deepest bases are now touching 5 metres in the western Alps, so things are looking good for March and April skiing and in some cases even later into spring.
Snow totals in the Pyrenees have also been more than a metre now in many areas over the past seven days, really transforming things and allowing some centres to fully open for the first time this winter.
Elsewhere in Europe, there’s been snowfall, if not so much, in central and northern Scandinavia but rain further south. The picture in Eastern Europe is mixed and some Scottish slopes have reopened after most were closed last week.
Across the Atlantic conditions in most areas are the best they’ve been all winter with lots more snowfall in the west (and a huge new storm just coming in from the Pacific) as well as a bit of fresh snow in the east too. The Pacific Northwest corner continues to report below-average snow conditions but it too is seeing a decent dump this time with Whistler Blackcomb noting over 2 feet of fresh snow in the past 72 hours and more coming.
Austria
Austrian ski areas posted some of the biggest snowfalls of the last week, with glacier centres reporting up to a metre of snowfall up high in 72 hours through last weekend. That’s set them up well for skiing into April and May, with base depths now 3 metres (10 feet) or more in many areas. There was fresh snowfall for lower Austrian slopes too, where it was more accurately needed, with Saalbach Hinterglemm posting a 70cm accumulation in 48 hours. So, all in all, March starts much better than things have looked for much of February, bolstered by the biggest snowfall of the season so far. Austria’s Ski Juwel pictured above, St Anton pictured top.
France
Many French ski areas have posted over a metre of snowfall on high slopes this week and Les Arcs, with 485cm lying at 2,000m, notes this is 3.5 times the amount they had there at this point last season. It and Alpe d’Huez, at 4.8m, are posting the world’s deepest snow and once again France is currently the only country with multiple ski areas posting 4m+ bases. Les 2 Alpes and Flaine are also up there. With all the fresh snow the avalanche danger is widely up to 3 “considerable” on the scale after previously being low. Despite all the new freeriding opportunities though, and the big refresh of snow cover on the groomed runs, there’s not a lot of change in what’s open, as that was already most runs before the new snow arrived and most large French ski regions remain 90%+ open. Vars pictured above.
Italy
Italy has had a fantastic week for snowfall with some resorts getting over a metre of fresh snow up at about 2,000m Ski areas from the Dolomites to the western Alps are posting powder conditions as well as increased avalanche danger off-piste due to all the snow. As with the rest of the Alps that’s expected to keep falling through the weekend, with temperatures much cooler than they’ve been, but ease off to sunnier weather next week. Madonna di Campiglio above.
Switzerland
Swiss ski centres saw some big snowfalls over the last week, with some seeing snowfall totals nearing a metre over the last seven days, so conditions are excellent for the start of March. St Moritz was one of the big winners, posting a 75cm snowfall in 48 hours last weekend. Glacier 3000 near Gstaad posted similar accumulations. All the snowfall did cause some issues for people trying to get to and from the resort last weekend and meant some terrain was closed while lifts were dug out or made avalanche-safe. Most centres are back to fully open now though, led by Verbier (pictured above as the snowfall started last Saturday) and the 4 Valleys which is 95% open. Laax is the first Swiss area to post a 4m+ base this season whilst St Moritz is the only major resort in the world to report its upper slope base depth up more than a metre in the last 7 days.
Pyrenees
The Pyrenees have had the biggest transformation of any ski area in the world this week as we’ve reported here. Snowfalls of more than a metre at many areas, more than most had had all winter up to now, have made the region look fully winter-immersed after being springlike all winter. Temperatures have dropped, snow is still falling and resorts are opening the most terrain they’ve been able to all winter. On the downside, there’s only just over a quarter of it left and with so much snowfall so fast the avalanche danger for excited freeriders who finally have powder to enjoy is very high – level 4 on the scale to a maximum of five. Formigal pictured above as the snowfall got started.
Scandinavia
A mostly good picture still across Scandinavia but warmer weather has been impacting ski areas at more southerly latitudes over the past week bringing rain and fog to ski areas in southern Norway and Sweden. Further north though at the bigger resorts the precipitation has been snowy and base depths are still building. Myrkdalen in Western Norway has the region’s deepest snow at 2.4 metres and Sweden’s Åre the most terrain open with 90% of its 91km of runs skiable. Norway’s Voss pictured above.
Scotland
Scotland’s had its usual weather ups and downs with some fresh snowfall and cold weather, but also gales and, at times, thawing temperatures on lower slopes. There’s not much change from a week ago. Cairngorm, Glenshee and The Lecht (pictured above this week) still have very limited runs open, just around the nursery slope area. Glencoe has the most open, about half its runs with top-to-bottom descents possible when the wind strength allows lifts to run up to the top. Nevis Range still does not have enough snow to be able to offer any skiing or boarding. Keep in mind though that things can change very quickly for better or worse in terms of snow on Scottish slopes.
Eastern Europe
A real mixed bag of weather across Eastern Europe this last week with some snowfall for high slopes in the north and even a few centimetres up top in Bulgaria, but against that some warm spells and rain at lower levels have brought overall open terrain down a little. Slovakia’s largest area Jasna has dropped from having all of its runs open a few weeks ago to about two-thirds now. Bansko in Bulgaria has seen its snowpack dropping with +1-C temperatures in resort although it so far maintains its long run back to the village and still has about 80% of its slopes open. Pamporovo pictured above.
USA
It’s been a snowy few days in the US and it’s about to get snowier! Ski areas in (or near) the Rockies, including Aspen and Jackson Hole have reported two-foot accumulations over the past few days, so plenty of powder with everything open – although there have been reports of strong winds at times too. But the main event is just getting underway with a huge storm moving in from the Pacific coast, forecast to deliver up to 12 feet of snow (over 3.5 metres) to ski areas in California with significant falls elsewhere in the west too. That kind of snowfall is good for spring base depths but tricky in the short term as it buries lifts and roads and sends the tree well and avalanche danger up high. Looking good once it has passed next week though. Eaglecrest in Alaska pictured above.
Canada
Western Canada has had one of its best weeks of 2024 with consistently sub-zero temperatures down to low levels and some good snowfall totals – some of the best of the season in fact, over the past few days. Whistler Blackcomb, which has struggled with warm temperatures at lower levels and not a lot of snowfall at any levels was one of the big winners, posting over 60cm of snowfall in 72 hours. Marmot Basin up near Jasper has also had several feet of snowfall this week, as have ski areas around Banff (including Sunshine pictured this week), where there are still nearly 3 months of the season left to run. So it is looking good for the start of spring here.
**** Updated Friday, 23 February, 2024 ****
The snowfall is finally here, it seems, in the Alps after weeks of big falls not really materialising. Hopefully the 30-90cm that’s forecast for a wide area will finally happen through the end of this week and conditions will be more wintery once more – just as meteorological springtime nears!
Where is Good to Ski Right Now?
Snowfall and colder weather is also due in the Pyrenees and it hasn’t really left Scandinavia all winter. Unfortunately, it has been warm in the Scottish Highlands though, leading several centres to close their slopes until new snowfall arrives, which is just beginning as we publish this week, so fingers crossed.
Across the Atlantic conditions in much of North America are looking great after a February that has seen more snowfall already than the rest of the season combined at many areas. California, Colorado and Utah have seen the biggest falls with several areas now reporting 10 feet or more of February snowfall. But this week there have been good snowfalls in the East too. It’s just the Pacific Northwest corner of the continent still suffering due to warmer temperatures and limited snowfall.
Austria
A pretty good week by 2024 standards for Austrian ski areas with slightly colder weather and some decent snowfalls, most marked on the upper mountain (the usual rain at times in valleys). There were some good accumulations up high. Desoitr this the ongoing battle to maintain snow cover by moving snow that had been piled high in the colder, snowier months at the end of 2023 around to cover thawed area is being lost a little at last with some of the bigger areas closing more lower runs., The result is a slight decline in open terrain although it should be stressed there’s still plenty open for most. The Arlberg region around Lech and St Anton, for example, still has 90% of its slopes open (down from 98%) and snow more than 10 feet deep up high. Plenty to see out the season.
France
We have been back to seeing some very warm temperatures, well into double digits above freezing, in French ski valleys over the last week unfortunately, hitting both the volume of snow surviving the thaw and perhaps more importantly (as most slopes remain open), the quality of the snow, most noticeably below 1800m. Up high though, in the second week of the busy half term holidays, it has been mostly happy faces. French ski areas continue to post the deepest snowpack and the most open terrain in the world. The 3 Vallees remain over 90% open with more than 550km of slopes open with Alpe d’Huez, Chamonix, Les Arcs and Flaine the only ski areas worldwide posting upper slope base depths of more than 4 metres. Conditions do appear to be finally changing now with colder weather and snowfall returning.
Italy
It has been a mostly dry and sunny week in Italy with temperatures reaching +10C in valleys, the freezing point up around 1800-2200mm for much of the week. There have been some light snow showers on higher slopes though, with Trentino a particular beneficiary. The cross-border Cervinia-Zermatt ski area is posting the most terrain open with just under 300km of slopes, more than 90% of its terrain. However the Milky Way (Via Lattea) including Sause d’Oulx, Sestriere and others has the most terrain open in Italy at just a few kilometres less. Cooler temperatures are more significant snowfall is expected to end the week. Passo Tonale pictured on Friday morning.
Switzerland
Swiss centres have had fresh snowfall earlier this week with 10-30cm falls reported on Monday/Tuesday, it’s now snowing again and the most optimistic forecasts are that accumulations should be at least double that, potentially more. As with the rest of Europe conditions are better on high slopes, with valley runs battling thin cover despite the fresh snowfall. Most of the country’s big centres still have at least 80% of their slopes open. Verbier (pictured above on Tuesday morning) and the 4 Valleys continues to post the most with 95% of its slopes and 380km of runs available. Lenzerheide is pictured top before the snow arrived.
Pyrenees
The Pyrenees finally saw a drop in temperatures and snowfall last weekend, after what seemed like (and largely actually has been, unfortunately) months of above average temperatures and snowfall. Alas it didn’t last too long with sunshine and warmer temperatures returning through this week, but it’s a little cooler than it was and there’s a more changeable weather pattern now with more snowfall expected. The FIS World Cup Ladies Tour was in Soldeu at the weekend so the ski racing world’s eyes watched conditions evolve from snow on high slopes but not much at resort on Saturday to winter down to the valley floor by Sunday. So 20-40cm of snow for most areas greatly improving conditions but not a huge jump in the amount of terrain open as a result ( widely 40-80%). Formigal is pictured above.
Scandinavia
Scandinavia has been posting some of the best conditions in Europe all winter so far with consistently subzero temperatures keeping the snow in great shape. Most ski areas ion Finland, Norway and Sweden are fully open and after those in the far north had no daylight at all during the 24 hour Polar night period in the latter half of December, the daylight hours are now rapidly increasing as they head towards 24 hour daylight in May. But it is still cold enough, in most resorts for the snow quality to be maintained better than in the Alps. Levi in Finland pictured above.
Scotland
Scotland’s ski areas have had a sunny, warm week – not good news for the thin snow cover. As a result Glencoe and Nevis Range in the west have both had to suspend offering skiing, at least at time of writing. Glencoe hoped to re-open some terrain on Friday, conditions permitting. Nevis range has had fresh snowfall on Friday, pictured above. The Lecht and Cairngorm were back to nursery slopes open, maintained by their all-weather snowmaking machines. Glenshee had a little more. It did turn colder and start snowing again on Thursday and the forecast for the week ahead is looking more promising for colder, snowier weather, so there’s some hope that slopes and centres may reopen.
Eastern Europe
Spring weather is taking a bit of a hold in Eastern Europe to a greater and lesser extent. Bulgarian resorts are celebrating the sunny weather, although they have also reported a 2cm overnight snowfall on high slopes at Bansko on Thursday night. Further north in the Czech and Slovak Republics and Poland the warmer temperatures are impacting lower slopes but the big centres like Jasna in Slovakia still have at least 80% of their slopes open and report fresh snow now falling.
USA
The latter half of the US ski season is certainly shaping up as much better than the first half with most of the country’s slope now open (unlike it November and December) and snow depths growing (When they seem to have stalled for the past month in much of Europe). The past week has been a good one with loads of snowfall across the West of the country as a series of storms blows through, but also in the East there’s been lots of fresh snow and powder conditions as well. The only region where conditions ‘remain challenging’ (Meaning above average temperatures and below average snowfall) is the pacific Northwest corner where resorts like Crystal Mountain and (ironically) the famous holder of the world record for the most snowfall in a season, Mt Baker, both still only have about half their slopes open. The Palisades pictured above.
Canada
Not a bad week across Canada, particularly in the east where resorts in Quebec are posting their best key stats of the season to date – almost all slopes open, almost entirely below-freezing temperatures and some fresh snow on top. It’s still more problematic in the West where conditions in Alberta and BC range from – “close to normal, everything open, pretty much” on the eastern half of the region but “worst season in decades, this is dire” the closer to the Pacific Coast you get. Whistler Blackcomb has had issues with rain, thawing and slushy snow on its base slopes but is in better shape on the upper half of the mountain where most of the terrain is and runs are 80% open, but smaller areas like Cypress Mountain and Grouse Mountain to the south just have a few runs open each, less than 10% of their terrain. Canada’s Mont Orford in the East pictured.
**** Updated Friday, 16 February, 2024 ****
There are not any huge snowfalls anywhere in the world to report for the last seven days, but there has been at least some snow almost everywhere!
That’s particularly good news for the Alps, Dolomites and Pyrenees which had been suffering in warm, dry weather for weeks – although in the case of the Alps and Dolomites, early-season snow meant pretty much all runs were open anyway, just getting very hardpacked with not much freeriding powder left anywhere. The new snowfall was not as much as hoped and heaviest up high of course, but still is a very welcome refresh.
Elsewhere in Europe Scandinavia has about the best conditions anywhere, with more fresh snowfall reported and temperatures staying low. Scotland has all five centres open for only the second time this season thanks to improved conditions there. However, Bulgaria had a setback from torrential rain and even lightning strikes to lifts reported at the start of the week.
Across in North America, it’s been cold in the Northeast and there’s been moderate snowfalls on ski slopes across the continent, leaving conditions about the best they’ve been all season, with certainly the most terrain open that there has been.
Austria
It’s been back to very warm weather in Austria over the last few days after temperatures dropped to freezing and there was a rare snowfall down to valley floors at the weekend. As with other countries in the Alps, high slopes above 2,000m have seen 20-30cm of snowfall, but unfortunately, at low elevations, it has been more rain and thawing of the valley snow. Most resorts still have 90% or more of their slopes open, a little less for areas like Saalbach Hinterglemm and the Skiwelt although they did pile the snow on when it was cold enough for snowmaking early in the season so much of it is surviving the warm weather on the pistes at least, it’s just a bit wet to ski on down low. Zillertal Arena pictured.
France
French slopes have not seen the big snowfalls that were forecast last weekend, but temperatures did drop and they did all see some snow – the best about 30cm on slopes in the southern Alps, more like 10-20cm further north. This was still good news though after three weeks of mostly warm and dry weather, especially as the snow fell down to the valley at lower resorts like Morzine and Les Gets. With almost all of the country’s slopes open anyway it was basically a nice refresh of the hard-packed surface ahead of the start of the busy half-term period. Temperatures have climbed back up in valleys but remain subzero at altitude and there is more snow forecast, albeit probably light stuff again, this weekend. Bonneval pictured.
Italy
Conditions are the best they’ve been for weeks on most slopes in Italy with fresh snowfall on the groomed runs. As before, most ski areas in the country have 80-100% of their runs open but lower temperatures and 20-40cm of snowfall at the weekend gave pistes a welcome refresh. Val Gardena is up at 98% open with 180km of runs and there’s even more for skiers based in Cervinia for the cross-birder terrain into Switzerland or in Sestriere and Sauze d’Oulx for skiing into France on the Milky Way circuit. Although it has been back to sunshine this week, temperatures are cooler and more snowfall is forecast through the weekend. Bormio pictured.
Switzerland
There’s not much different to report in Switzerland than in the rest of the Alps – 20-30cm of fresh snowfall on the country’s glaciers and high slopes, but more like 5cm and rain at times down in valleys, where snow depth is about 10% of what it is up high. So many Swiss resorts, again as the rest of the Alps, have sunny, snow-free resort streets but ribbons of white to the base on lower runs, but good conditions and everything open above 1800m. Verbier and the 4 Valleys continue to post the most open, around 98% of their 410km of slopes, Zermatt is on about 300km with its connection to Cervinia. Glacier 3000 pictured.
Pyrenees
The Pyrenees finally saw a drop in temperatures and snowfall last weekend, after what seemed like (and largely actually has been, unfortunately) months of above-average temperatures and snowfall. Alas, it didn’t last too long with sunshine and warmer temperatures returning through this week, but it’s a little cooler than it was and there’s a more changeable weather pattern now with more snowfall expected. The FIS World Cup Ladies Tour was in Soldeu at the weekend so the ski racing world’s eyes watched conditions evolve from snow on high slopes but not much at the resort on Saturday to winter down to the valley floor by Sunday. So 20-40cm of snow for most areas greatly improving conditions but not a huge jump in the amount of terrain open as a result ( widely 40-80%). Formigal pictured.
Scandinavia
Finland, Sweden and Norway continue to report excellent conditions with most ski centres in the region seeing consistent cold temperatures and more regular snowfall than further south. The snow is now over two metres deep in western Norway with much of it relatively freshly fallen. Most ski areas in the area have all of their slopes open too and Europe’s most northerly major resort, Riksgransen, is due to open for its 2024 season at the end of next week. Meanwhile the Fonna summer ski area, due to open in May, says its entire drag lift including the overhead cables have disappeared under snow lying up to 10 metres deep! Voss pictured above.
Scotland
Scotland’s ski areas have had one of the best weeks of the season, well timed to coincide with the first week of the half-term holidays. Essentially winds have been less violent and precipitation more snowfall than rainfall allowing bases to start building again and centres to gradually open more terrain. Conditions do remain dynamic and things can get better or worse quickly but at the time of writing all areas except Nevis Range had some more runs open beyond their nursery slopes, with Nevis Range hoping to be able to re-open soon. Glenshee pictured above.
Eastern Europe
Torrential rain has hit Bulgarian ski areas hard this week with Bansko forced to cancel World Cup slalom races on Sunday and then Pamporovo largely closed on Monday due to rain damage to its slopes and even reports of lightning strikes damaging lift towers! But things are now starting to improve again with slope recovery underway. It’s not been a lot better further north with heavy rain on low slopes in the Czech and Slovak Republics too, but temperatures have been dropping since Tuesday and again it’s looking better for the weekend. Jasna above.
USA
None of the big snowfalls that we saw in California and the Rockies the week before last to report, but conditions have been good across most of America this past week with many areas in the Rockies and on the East Coast picking up 6-12 inch accumulations. The latter was particularly welcome for some resorts in states like Vermont which have not seen many decent dumps this winter and are still only 50-60% open in some cases. There’s more snowfall moving into the west over the weekend so the latter half of February is looking promising. Whiteface pictured above.
Canada
It has not been a bad week across Canada, particularly in the east where resorts in Quebec are posting their best key stats of the season to date – almost all slopes open, almost entirely below-freezing temperatures and some fresh snow on top. It’s still more problematic in the West where conditions in Alberta and BC range from – “close to normal, everything open, pretty much” on the eastern half of the region but “worst season in decades, this is dire” the closer to the Pacific Coast you get. Whistler Blackcomb has had issues with rain, thawing and slushy snow on its base slopes but is in better shape on the upper half of the mountain where most of the terrain is and runs are 80% open. Meghan and Harry were over for a visit in the last few days. However smaller areas nearby like Cypress Mountain and Grouse Mountain to the south just have a few runs open each, less than 10% of their terrain. Banff Sunshine pictured above this week, Mont Tremblant top.
**** Updated Friday, 9 February, 2024 ****
California and Norway have been the two snowiest parts of the ski world this past week as snowfalls have been quite local and quite intense where they have arrived. Some Californian ski areas have seen over four feet (1.2 metres) of fresh snowfall this week, while ski centres in Norway have posted up to 60cm (2 feet) on the back of storm Ingunn. Not such a snowy picture for the rest of Europe but the Rockies have also posted several feet of snowfall in the US.
Things are now starting to change in the Alps, thankfully, after three mostly dry, warm weeks. Colder temperatures and snowfall are starting to arrive in the Alps and the even more hard-hit Pyrenees.
Austria
Although Austria typically has lower altitude slopes than most of the rest of the big four Alpine ski nations, and it has, like the rest, seen warm temperatures, getting into double figures on lower slopes, in recent weeks, it is still reporting, on average, just under 90% of the country’s ski slopes open and many centres like Kitzbuhel are up near 100%. Temperatures are now dropping with the freezing point back below 2000m and temperatures of -10C expected overnight on higher slopes into the weekend and light to moderate snowfall returning.
France
French ski areas suffered a third week of warm, dry weather but things have finally started to change with colder temperatures reported and the first of the snowfalls that are expected through the weekend and into next week. In the meantime everything is open and French resorts are posting the world’s deepest snow with Flaine, Chamonix and Les Arcs among those posting 4m+ snow depths. The Portes du Soliel and the 3 Valleys are also posting the most open terrain in the world. True there’s very little freeride terrain left worth skiing and snow quality hasn’t been great on pistes in valleys but that should change over the coming week. Beware though the avalanche danger level is set to rise steeply from its current low.
Italy
Italy is set to see some of the biggest snowfalls of the coming week if forecasts prove correct. Snowfall to low levels could total as much as two feet in the Dolomites over the coming days, about as much as most areas have had all year so far. It’s the same for ski areas in the northwest in the Aosta Valley where the snow is already lying much deeper, in some places over 3,m/10 feet deep. Despite another week of warm weather, and reports of closed slopes in Italy (which turn out to be for a small ski area near Rome hundreds of kilometres south of the main ski regions) most Italian ski slopes remain open. Arabba pictured above.
Switzerland
Reports of snowless slopes in Switzerland in British media are false – at least when it comes to all the major resorts most Brits actually head to. Verbier and the 4 Valleys, for example, have snow lying more than 3 metres deep and 390km of the 410km of slopes open – 95%. It’s a similar story across the country with Laax/Flims posting the deepest snow with 4 metres, nearly, lying upon its glacier. It has though been a third successive warm week with temperatures hitting double figures above freezing at 1000m and getting up above freezing at 3500m in the afternoons, bad news for winter. But temperatures are falling and so snow is starting to again, so things are finally looking up and in the meantime, everything is open.
Pyrenees
It’s been yet another mostly warm and sunny week for the Pyrenees, which have seen very little natural snowfall all winter, and for a month now have regularly seen temperatures climbing above +10C in valleys and the freezing point getting up above 3,000m in the afternoons, higher than the highest lifts. So we’re really talking old snow that gets very hard-packed and freeze-thaw conditions every day too, with little snow left at low elevations, most of the skiing on higher runs. The bigger resorts like Grandvalira (Pas de la Casa and Soldeu) in Andorra still have about half their runs open, some other centres are struggling to open even a quarter of their runs though. The good news is it appears things will finally change a little this weekend with cooler temperatures and snowfall forecast. Spain’s Baqueira Beret, still with over 100km of slopes open, pictured above.
Scandinavia
It’s been a good week for Scandinavian ski centres as Storm Ingunn last weekend left a lot of snow behind in his wake. There was the most at West Coast Norwegian resorts like Voss which posted several feet of powder waiting at the start of the week (pictured above) after storm damage to power supplies and other issues were sorted out, Elsewhere most areas, including in Finland and Sweden, reported at least a foot of fresh snow, the biggest falls of the year. So currently everything is open and conditions excellent.
Scotland
Scotland has had another challenging week of gales, warm spells and torrential rain that has all hit the snowpack hard and knocked out much of the limited terrain that had been able to open before now. Things have turned colder again over the last few days but we are back to very limited terrain available at present, at several centres just the nursery slopes open thanks to their all-weather snowmaking machines. Glencoe, Glenshee and Cairngorm (pictured above) do have some more runs open though.
Eastern Europe
Bansko is the focus of the ski racing world’s attention this weekend as the Men’s Tour is in town for World Cup racing. The resort looks to be in its best shape of the seasons so far with about 70% of its terrain open. Borovets though is going the other way, closing some trails and cancelling nights skiing saying it’s too warm. Snow has started falling again up in the Czech and Slovak Republics where higher slopes and bigger resorts like Jasna are in good shape but lower runs lack snow cover as it’s been too warm in valleys.
USA
It’s been the best week of the 23-24 season so far for most US ski areas. California has done particularly well with huge snowfalls (Mammoth reported over 2 metres yup top) over the last seven days. They’re back to their traditional problem of having to dig it all out and make slopes safe to be able to actually operate. There have also been several feet of snowfall along the Rockies, from two feet at Jackson Hole to three in New Mexico at Taos. The only places not doing so well are still in the Pacific Northwest which continues to have issues with wet snow/rain among periods of colder, snowier weather up in Washington state. Taos is pictured top, Mammoth above.
Canada
It’s been a mixed week for Canadian ski areas with warm weather in the west causing issues with snow quality at times, either destabilising the snowpack on steep slopes leading to terrain closures at resorts like Kicking Horse, or seeing rain at low levels causing problems at Whistler Blackcomb and some other centres. Fortunately, though the past few days have been colder and so there’s been lots of shouting about 10cm snow accumulations and things getting back on track. Further east in Quebec, it has been colder, -20C at times in fact, but unfortunately here too it’s now warming up to end the week with a chance of rain before temperatures drop again. Mont Orford in Quebec pictured above.
**** Updated Friday, 2 February, 2024 ****
“Springlike” continues to describe conditions in the Alps as we start February. We’ve had a week of mostly warm, sunny weather and there appears to be another on the way with temperatures passing +10XC in lower valleys in the afternoons and the freezing point rising above the highest peaks too. Not good news in the long term but in the short term not a huge problem as most ski areas have decent snow depths so any thawing is having little impact on what’s open – for the vast majority at least 80% of their slopes, many more than 90%.
Outside the Alps, it’s similar but more extreme still in the Pyrenees bit more mixed and generally colder in Eastern Europe. Scotland continues to be battered by gales and has lost some of the limited cover it had, Scandinavia is generally looking good but has just been hit by its most severe gales in three decades, impacting Norway particularly.
Across the Atlantic, it’s been a quieter week for snowfall and weather in general across North America but a fresh front just starting to move in is expected to bring significant fresh snow accumulations to the west through the weekend.
Austria
Austrian ski areas have seen predominantly warm, sunny weather over the last week, which although giving very pleasant conditions on higher slopes, is not good news for the snowpack overall and led to thawing on low runs and in some cases a battle to keep lower terrain open. But that said Austrian ski areas are well prepared for this and there’s not been a big change in what is open (which remains pretty much all slopes). There has also been sine fresh snowfall on higher slopes, with the Kitzsteinhorn posting 25cm (10”) and a corresponding jump in snow depths over the past few days. So it’s too soon to worry very much, but with sunshine forecast through the weekend, it would be nice to see a return to winter before long. Kitzbuhel is pictured above this week.
France
French ski areas have been battling some very warm temperatures this week, hitting +10C in valleys down at 1,000m altitude. The freezing point has been climbing above 3,000m in the afternoons too meaning thawing at all levels, although obviously lower runs which had thinner cover from early warm spells and rainfalls are in the worst state. The big picture isn’t as bleak as that appears though because lots of early season snowfall has left France with the deepest snowpack, up to 4.2m up high in Les Arcs, so most of the country’s slopes remain open with good conditions up above 2,000m and valley runs still kept open. The world’s biggest area the 3 Valleys has 95% (550km) of its runs open still and Les Portes Du Soleil which has lower terrain still 85% (490km)
Italy
Italian ski areas have enjoyed the same sunny conditions and mostly dry weather as the rest of central Europe. Bases in the Dolomites are lower than in the Alps, but still, most ski areas in the region are more or less fully open, well used to opening on a 30-50cm base. The sunshine here is expected to continue well into next week as well with the same plus temperatures reaching +10c at 1,000m altitude and the freezing point getting above 3,000m. The Milky Way (Via Lattea) around Sauze d’Oulx and Sestriere is now up to about 75% open, despite still having a thin base, with around 300km of slopes accessible, the second most in the country after the linked areas around the Sella Ronda with nearly 500km of slopes open.
Switzerland
Swiss ski areas have also enjoyed a fairly settled, largely sunny week with little precipitation to report and strong, gusting winds at times the main issue for skiers. That and the fact that mild temperatures down in valleys mean the snow is sticky at times below about 1800m altitude, the best of the conditions above that …which fortunately most slopes are. So there’s little change on seven days ago really. Laax is posting the country’s deepest snow up on its glacier where it’s lying more than 12 feet deep. Verbier and the 4 Valleys have the most terrain open, still at 95% of the 410km of slopes there. It looks like a sunny weekend ahead. Zermatt is pictured above.
Pyrenees
Alas, it has been another week of mostly sunny and too warm temperatures across the Pyrenees, lower valleys seeing daytime highs of +10 to +14C and even the highest slopes seeing +7C and overnight lows rarely cold enough for snowmaking. So the challenging conditions continue (with no sign of much change ahead) and centres are battling to keep slopes open still. The biggest centres like Andorra’s Grandvalira (Soldeu, Pas de la Casa etc) and Spain’s Baqueira Beret can offer the most – both at around 50-60% of their slopes on the upper mountain so around 100km each.
Scandinavia
The big factor in Scandinavia right now is severe gale force winds, mostly impacting Norwegian resorts, which have closed on Thursday and Friday in many cases, but also the wider region. The storm, reputed to be the most violent since the early 1990s, comes against a backdrop of excellent conditions otherwise across Scandinavia with most ski areas fully open there with better snow quality than in much of the Alps thanks to the consistent low temperatures in the region. Base depths have hit 2m at ski areas around Voss in western Norway. Hemsedal is pictured above.
Scotland
After all five Scottish ski centres managed to operate simultaneously for the first time this season a fortnight ago, they were closed again within 48 hours as more than a week of gales began. These ended last Sunday with record-warm temperatures which decimated cover on lower slopes when centres could finally reopen earlier this week. We did get a few calm, cold days on Monday and Tuesday though and there are a few runs still open at Cairngorm, Glencoe (pictured above) and Glenshee plus nursery slopes at The Lecht. Strong winds returned for the latter half of the week though and now centres are hoping for a return of winter.
Eastern Europe
Not a great deal of change to report in Eastern Europe where the picture is of fairly good conditions at the bigger, higher centres, but not much snow cover for smaller, lower runs. So Slovakia’s Jasna and Bulgaria’s Borovets are posting 1m+ bases up high and most runs open, but Bansko still only has about half of its terrain skiable on the upper mountain. Eastern European ski areas have actually had more wintery conditions than the Alps this week, with temperatures closer to freezing, just not much snowfall. Pamporovo is pictured above.
USA
It was a fairly quiet week in the US until the past 24 hours or so with snow depths dipping a little on a week ago as temperatures rose a little above freezing but not much snowfall was recorded. However, a major storm is now moving west and is forecast to deliver several feet of snow by the end of the weekend, the heaviest in the west of the country. Mammoth (pictrured above) reported up to 2 feet of snow on Thursday morning. Conditions remain way better than they were in November and December with an increasing number of ski areas reporting they’re now 100% open, including America’s biggest Park City in Utah which may currently have slightly more terrain open than North America’s biggest Whistler Blackcomb north of the border. Keystone (pictured top) has every one of their 140 ruins open, they say. Looking good over in the East too which had seen similar issues but several areas have now reported their snowiest Januarys in at least a decade to bounce back.
Canada
It has been a fairly calm week across Canada with temperatures typically in the freezing to -15C range. However, there have been reports of some unfortunate warm weather spikes, with Kicking Horse (above) announcing it was closing some lifts and runs midweek after warm weather there made some steeper sections of its snowpack less stable. Overall though it’s a positive picture with some light snowfall reported and almost all Canadian ski slopes currently open – the most this season so far.
**** Updated Sunday, 28 January, 2024 ****
Where is Good to Ski Right Now?
Temperatures in the Alps have been warmer than we’d like for January this week with “springlike” the term widely used. There has been some precipitation but although high slopes saw a foot of snow, lower ones saw torrential train at times. Those skiing above 2,000m will certainly be seeing the best of the conditions this week.
Elsewhere in Europe, the Pyrenees continue to need colder temperatures and snow with most areas posting an average of half their runs open. Similar reports for Bulgaria, but Scandinavian areas are mostly fully open. Scotland has been battered by storms and we’re still waiting to see how things stand when the latest blows through – it’s been mild but with heavy snowfall reported up high.
Over in North America, conditions continue to improve although there has not been so much fresh snowfall this week. But from less than half of the slopes open a month ago, we’re now averaging more than 80%.
Austria
We’ve had quite a lot of different weather hit Austria over the last seven days. The best was arguably last weekend when cold, sunny weather dominated, and the worst, midweek, when many areas saw heavy rain on lower slopes, although by Thursday many were reporting a foot of fresh snow up high, so there was an upside (including Fugen, pictured above). But it has been a little warm and snow conditions have suffered on lower runs. Against that though most Austrian areas report their slopes as 80-90% open.
France
A very mixed week for skiers in France, but, for most, it’s still good with some great sunny days and above 1800m more nig snowfalls. The deepest reported is now 5 metres at Alpe d’Huez. Against that, low valley slopes at resorts including Les Gets, Morzine and La Clusaz have reported rain when others were getting snow and the past few days have seen ‘springlike’ conditions with valley temperatures touching +10C and the freezing point climbing up to 3,000m. Unfortunately, that’s the picture for the coming week too, with lots of sunshine. Fortunately, the snow is deep enough in most areas to withstand it. Avoriaz is pictured above.
Italy
Snow depths are up a little in Italy on a week ago, not that that matters much for most of the resorts international skiers visit in the north and west of the country where the snow has been lying 2-3 metres deep for months no with more or less everything open. It’s good news for the Dolomites though where bases are more in the 50-100cm bracket, although here too everything is open anyway. There have been warmer valley temperatures this week as everywhere, after the snowfall, but centres like Val Gardena continue to report everything open, Cervinia is at 90%.
Switzerland
Swiss centres have had the same mixed weather week as the rest of the Alps with cold clear weather at the weekend giving way to some heavy snowfall on high slopes early in the week, but that falling as rain at lower levels. They’ve also had the same problem with valley highs reaching +10C in the afternoon, although up high lows of -10C still overnight – so in short, springlike, with freeze-thaw conditions to quite high altitudes and the avalanche danger at ‘considerable’ in many areas. The coming week looks mostly dry, with plenty of sunshine, but mild still into February. Despite this most of the country’s ski runs remain open, Zermatt is at 90% of its terrain, Verbier and the 4 Valleys, 95%.
Pyrenees
Unfortunately, conditions remain challenging for ski resort businesses in the Pyrenees. It’s not a problem if you like lots of sunshine and warm weather, because they’ve had plenty of that this week, but that’s obviously not great news for the snowpack, which hasn’t really had many good growth spells so far this season as it is. So the best of the snow is on higher ground still and many areas still only have about half of their slopes open. Formigueres aboive.
Scandinavia
There were some powder alarms in Scandinavia this week as some centres in western Norway posted 20cm+ 24-hour accumulations and Levi up in Lapland also noted it had abundant fresh power, although high lifts were also closed at the start of the weekend due to gales, so a mixed bag of weather. Conditions overall are good across the region though with most of the big-name areas like are, Trysil, Ruka and Hemsedal at, or nearly at, 100% open.
Scotland
Scotland’s centres have not had a great week after the euphoria of all five centres being open together for the final days of last week, the succession of storms hitting the UK plus warmer weather closed most of them for much of this week and despite some heavy snowfall on high slopes, overall snow loss means there are fewer runs open than a week ago. Nevis Range, currently closed, says it will provide an update on Saturday. The Lecht is back to just its nursery slope open and the other three all have fewer runs available, mostly representing 10-30% of their full terrain. Glenshee, above.
Eastern Europe
The north-south divide continues in Eastern Europe with the most terrain open up in the Czech and Slovak Republics and Poland to the north, at least at higher elevations, where it has been more wintery all winter. Ski areas in Bulgaria and Romania and elsewhere at more southerly latitudes have still not really had any huge snowfalls and have instead relied a lot on snowmaking. The past week has been cooler than further west but mostly dry again so essentially little change on seven days ago. That is that most centres including Bansko have only half their runs open, although Borovets is up at 80%.
USA
The US has seen some more snowfall and continues to look in much better shape across the country than it did in November/December. Mammoth Mountain reported it had passed six feet of snowfall for January after only getting just over two feet in the first few months of the season. They’re still way down on last season, which set record levels of snowfall, but are in much better shape than they were and are now almost 100% open. It’s a picture reported across the country with America’s biggest ski area Park City in Utah now 100% open and lots of fresh snowfall from multiple storms this week for the East Coast too. Stowe is pictured above.
Canada
Conditions across Canada are the best they’ve been all season after 2024 has continued cold with frequent snow showers. It was the east and west coastal ski areas which had been battling the most against warm weather and too little snowfall at the end of 2023, but big-name resorts like Tremblant in Quebec and Whistler Blackcomb in BC are both now reporting their slopes 90% open. The very cold temperatures of a week ago have now eased and temperatures are mostly in the freezing to -20C range with more light snow showers forecast. Sunshine near Banff pictutred above this week.
**** Updated Friday, 19 January, 2024 ****
Where is Good to Ski Right Now?
The USA has been the place to be this last week if you wanted to see plenty of snowfall. Some huge accumulations of up to six feet in the last seven days have been reported, bringing to an end the first few months of the season that were often too warm and too dry in dramatic fashion. The snowfall has, ironically, caused some problems with ski areas that couldn’t open slopes for too little snow next having to close them while they dig them out, but the big picture is good for the rest of the season.
A quieter week in Europe with almost everything thrown into the mix – sunshine, murk, higher avalanche danger, snow up high, rain down low, gales – we’ve had it all. But again the big picture is good with nearly all slopes still open and base depths remaining healthy. In the north of the continent, Scotland’s five centres were open together for the first time this season from Thursday, but several were closed again by gales on Friday.
Austria
It has been a week of mixed weather across the Austrian Alps, with pretty much everything on offer from snowy mornings to sunny afternoons, temperatures a little warmer than last week, in the -5 to +5C range. Snow depths continue to look good with two glaciers – Kaunertal and the Stubai, among the three Austrian areas now reporting the snow lying more than 3 metres/10 feet deep up high. The other is St Anton and the Arlberg which is posting the most terrain open in the country at 250km. The mixed weather is set to continue into next week with an initially sunny weekend giving way to fresh snowfall to start next week. Kitzbuhel, staging the Hahnenkamm this weekend, above, reports its slop[es 100% open.
France
A mixed week of weather across the French Alps with reports of rain, unfortunately, in low valleys including around Les Gets, but with great conditions above 1,800m, where almost every piste is open and snow depths of over 4 metres have been reported up top in Chamonix and Flaine. Much of the past week has been dry but the past few days have brought more snowfall to higher slopes. Most of the big areas like the 3 Valleys, Grand Massif, Paradiski (Les Arcs is pictured above on Thursday) and Tignes-Val d’Isere remain at least 90% open. The coming weekend looks colder again and sunny with more snowfall expected with changeable conditions next week.
Italy
It’s looking good across much of Italy after a settled week following heavy snowfall for much of the country seven days ago. Most runs are open, the only real issue has been strong winds closing higher slopes in parts of the Dolomites and along the country’s western border with France. Val Gardena continues to post virtually every run open though and the snow depth in the Aosta Valley is the deepest in the country at nearly 4 metres. The week ahead looks initially dry and sunny but with more snowfall returning to the west from Monday, drier in the Dolomites. Sestriere is pictured above earlier this week.
Switzerland
Great conditions across the Swiss Alps at present with more fresh snowfall over the last few days following a dry week after the snowfalls earlier last week. Most Swiss regions have 90% or more of their slopes open with Verbier and the 4 Valleys posting the most terrain of all skiable – almost all of their 410km. Meanwhile, Saas-Fee has the country’s thickest snowpack, approaching 4 metres up on its glacier. Unfortunately, though the forecast for the next seven days isn’t that good, especially for lower runs. temperatures look set to climb over the next few days with double-digit plus numbers in valleys by early next week. There’s not much snow forecast either.
Pyrenees
One of the better weeks of the season in the Pyrenees with temperatures in the -10 to +5C range and occasional light to moderate snowfalls. After the snowfall last week and some good snowmaking weather we have the most terrain there’s been open all winter. Spain’s Baqueira Beret continues to post the most runs open, about 85% of its slopes now and more than 85% of its terrain. Andorra’s Grandvalira which is home to Andorra’s ski villages like Pas de la Casa and Soldeu is only a little way behind with over 60% of its larger area now open.
Scandinavia
Snowfall and some low, low temperatures are both back in Norway, Finland and Sweden, with up to 30cm of fresh snowfall and temperatures down as low as -30C in the far north have been reported. Most ski areas in the region are fully open including all the big resorts like Hemsedal, Trysil, Are, Ruka and Levi. The deepest snow and the biggest falls of the past week have been reported in Western Norway. Idre Fjall is pictured above this week.
Scotland
Scotland’s ski season is continuing to improve. Nevis Range was the latest centre to open, unveiling its first slopes for the 23-24 season on Thursday, joining Cairngorm and Glenshee in having more terrain open beyond nursery slopes maintained by all-weather snowmaking systems. The move came following one of the coldest and snowiest weeks in the Scottish Highlands of the season so far. Cairngorm has been making access to its upper mountain terrain, where the best of the snow is, easier and easier thanks to the new snowfall. It’s hampered by the fact that the funicular lift which is the only full access to it remains out of action for repair. Glencoe has also opened. It had sledging and nursery slopes open already and its access chair for ski tourers but now has some inbounds runs of its own open too. Glenshee this week.
Eastern Europe
It’s a mixed picture across Eastern Europe right now. In the northeast – countries like Poland, the Czech and Slovak Republic, the bigger, higher resorts are reporting their terrain fully open – but low-lying resorts, below about 1500m, are by contrast struggling to open much at all for lack of snow. More southerly nations like Bulgaria and Romania are reporting similar issues, plenty of snow up high but little or nothing on lower slopes, hence Bansko’s upper slopes are open, lower slopes closed. The past week has shown little change in that. Serbia’s Kopaonik is pictured above.
USA
It appears to be the turning point of the season after a lacklustre first few months. There’s been heavy snowfall across the country, with some big 4-5 feet (1.2-1.5m) dumps in the West, incredibly low temperatures, gale force winds, the whole lot. As a result the country’s snowpack, which had been below 50% average with less than half of runs open, has jumped to more than 90% with most runs open at most resorts. That means that Park City – which has the country’s biggest area potentially but the past few months has not had enough snow to open all of it – finally does have about 90% of its runs open and the most in the US. Conditions are also much improved at West Coast resorts, with the Pacific Northwest seeing the biggest snowfalls as well as the lowest temperatures – as low as -40C at the weekend. Crested Butte in Colorado pictured above this week.
Canada
Ski areas in Eastern Canada saw the same very low temperatures, if not colder, that ski areas in north and west US had and several centres in Alberta and BC were closed, in some cases for several days last weekend, for safety reasons as a result. But it has been ‘warming up’ to the minus 10s/20s since and there’s been some light to moderate snowfall too so the big picture is essentially the best it has been all season. Whistler Blackcomb is finally almost fully open and two months after opening is at last reporting the most terrain open in North America. Lake Louise pictured above this week.
**** Updated Friday, 12 January, 2024 ****
It’s been a good week for most of the world’s major ski regions with some of the biggest snowfalls of the season so far and temperatures dropping below freezing in the Alps, Pyrenees and across North America …while climbing back up towards the freezing point in Scandinavia from very low levels last week.
It’s difficult to remember better conditions in the Alps with some centres reporting up to a metre of snowfall this week and a growing number of centres posting 10 feet/3m bases already, and its still only the first half of January! Most areas have 80=95% of their slopes open. The world’s biggest, the 3 Valleys, is now up to 550km of slopes open. The recent cold weather has also seen snowfall down to valley floors.
Elsewhere in Europe things have warmed a little in Scandinavia where it had been very cold indeed, Scottish centres have started to open some terrain beyond their beginner slopes and the Pyrenees have had some much needed snowfall. There’s also been more snow for most Eastern European destinations.
Across the Atlantic North American ski areas have, by contrast, had a very poor season start unfortunately sand last weekend less than half of Canadian and American slopes were open, on average. The good news is there’s been lots of fresh snowfall on both the East and West side of the continent at last. So while not yet back to normal, by far the best it has been this season so far.
Austria
There have been some great images coming out of Austria this week with heavy snowfall down to valley floor turning low valley resort villages into picture perfect snowy scenes (Kitzbuhel is pictured above). As most of the country’s big ski areas were already 70-80% open anyway, the new snowfall has just improved things further, with low temperatures keeping the snow in good shape. St Anton has both the deepest snow in the country – nearly 4 metres deep up high – and the most terrain open, more than 90% of the huge Arlberg area. But it’s looking good pretty much everywhere.
France
There’s been a lot of fresh snowfall in the French Alps this week, further improving conditions that were already good, with the snowpack deeper than average – in fact passing the 4 metres mark last week at Flaine, Les Arcs and Chamonix. Conditions are great across the French Alps, the only issue has been some wet snow at low elevations, but with most terrain at destination resorts above 1800m, ski areas like Tignes – Val d’Isere are 95% open. The world’s largest ski area, the 3 Valleys, has more than 90% of its slopes – equaling more than 550km of runs, open. La Plagne pictured above.
Italy
There’s been snowfall and low temperatures across Italy this week, turning its valleys white, to match its ski slopes. Most runs were already open but more southerly resorts had not had much snowfall to date this season and were heavily reliant on snowmaking, so the new snowfall is very welcome. The Milky Way has seen a big jump in its reported snow depth thanks to heavy snowfall in the west of the country and is now posting the biggest single-area amount of terrain open in the country – about 250km of slopes, ahead of Val Gardena with 180km. Livigno, which reported 52cm in 24hrs earliuer this week, pictured above.
Switzerland
There are some of the best conditions in Switzerland for years with the slopes nearly 90% open, on average, across the country, the highest percentage in the world. These stats have been boosted this week by cold temperatures down to low elevations which has enabled more valley runs to open. The huge Portes du Soliel region on the French/Swiss border, which had been struggling to open half its runs until last week, has now jumped to more than 90% and 500km of slopes open, second only to the 3 Valleys. Verbier has 95% of its runs open. Saas Fee above.
Pyrenees
The Pyrenees have had one of their best weeks of the season so far, with some very low temperatures down below -10C, and some fresh snowfall …and there hadn’t been much of that until now. Unfortunately for Andorra and sopain, most of the snowfall landed on the French side of the border though. As a result, although we’re coming from a point of snow depths well below average, more terrain has been opened and snowmaking systems have been ramped up to maximum production. Up to 50cm (20”) of snowfall was reported through the past seven days.
Scandinavia
Temperatures have warmed from their very cold -20s last week to a much toastier -10 to -5C across Scandinavia. It’s slowly getting lighter and snowier, with the deepest depths in Western Norway reaching five feet (1.5 metres) and most centres across the region now open. It should stay cold with more light snowfalls between sunny spells across Scandinavia this coming week. Lapland’s Ruka pictured above.
Scotland
Scotland’s ski centres continue to battle top open more terrain beyond the limited beginner slope areas maintained with all-weather snowmaking equipment. The results are nixed. At Glenshee access is most straightforward. For Cairngorm (above) the White Lady and M1 pistes are open by with the funicular out of action once more it’s a 15-minute hike to the M1 Poma to reach the lift to ski the slopes. Glencoe doesn’t have any inbound terrain open but tourers can use their access chairlift to get to what’s reported to be good snow lying between the top of that and the summit.
Eastern Europe
Most Eastern European ski areas are in good shape with cold temperatures and fresh snowfall in many areas. Slovakia’s Jasna has the most terrain open and some of the deepest snow lying – 99% of its slopes available and snow depths of up to 100cm. It’s not quite such a rosy picture in Bulgaria where most centres are only reporting 30-50% of their slopes open, although Borovets are up at 85% and a metre of snow lying up high. Bansko is pictured above.
USA
The snowfall that US ski areas have been badly needing has arrived this week with ski areas from East to West Coasts reporting 1-2 feet of snow and powder conditions. There’s a lot of catching up needing to be done with only about half of the country’s slopes open so far after the warm and dry/wet start to the season, but the new snow has allowed resorts to open more terrain and offer some of the famed powder to enjoy at last on top. Ski areas in Colorado are tending to offer the most runs with Steamboat (above) and Vail up to 80% open, while some resorts in Utah like Alta and Snowbird (pictured top), are posting the deepest snow outside of Alaska. However Californian ski areas, which have been suffering the lack of snow the most, got a boost too with over a foot of fresh snow and Mammoth is now 75% open.
Canada
Canada saw some good snowfalls on both East and West coasts at the weekend and conditions are much improved, with some powder skiing possible in the west. The most marked improvement is at North America’s largest resort Whistler Blackcomb, which has jumped from being only 40% open to 80% now and having the most terrain open in North America at last. Elsewhere there’s been fresh snowfall in the Rockies too and on the East Coast (Massif du Sud pictured above), where conditions have unfortunately been very poor to date. There’s still only limited terrain open there. The weather has now got much colder across the country.
**** Updated Friday, 5 January, 2024 ****
Where is Good to Ski Right Now?
Snowfall returned to the Alps on New Year’s Eve after a fairly dry final week or so of 2023. Since then it has been snowing over a wider area, with some resorts now reporting over a metre of snowfall this week and Chamonix the first in the world to report a 4-metre snow depth reached on its highest slopes – months earlier than the Alps say those numbers last winter. So although there has been some rain and sleet down low, the overall picture is very good, especially compared to recent years.
Not so in the Pyrenees unfortunately where it has been too dry although snowfall is expected here too. Up in Scandinavia, the issue is dangerously low temperatures closing some lifts, over in Scotland the skiing remains very limited but small areas beyond the nursery slopes are tentatively opening.
Across in North America, there have been some good signs for the new year, a foot of snow in California and fresh snow on the East Coast too, but it remains a lacklustre start to the season with most areas struggling to open terrain due to predominantly warm and dry (or wet) weather. The best appears to be in parts of the Rockies where some centres have 70-80% of their slopes open and snow depths close to a metre.
Austria
Conditions are excellent across most Austrian destinations. The Arlberg region is in particularly good shape with snow over 3 metres deep up high and more than 95% of the terrain there is open. It’s similar in all of the country’s big areas – Saalbach Hinterglemm, the Skiwelt and indeed most of the smaller areas too. Kitzbuhel (pictured above at New Year) reports it has all 190km of its slopes open and every lift operating. There’s been some light snowfall over the past few days and that’s expected to continue through the weekend as temperatures drop before skies clear next week.
France
French ski areas have reported up to a metre of snowfall this week, the most anywhere in the world. At the same time, Chamonix has reached a 4-metre base depth at Grands Montets, the deepest in the world at present. So things are looking pretty good almost everywhere. Most of the country’s ski areas are 75-95% open, although Les Portes du Soliel has been having issues with about 55% of its slopes open. However ski areas there, Les Gets and Morzine, were among the resorts posting nearly a metre of snowfall this week so it looks like more will be open here too shortly, and in any case, 55% of their terrain is 325km of runs.
Italy
There’s been some fresh snowfall for Italy this week and cooler temperatures too which have given a nice refresh to the slopes in some areas, however, snowfall remains below average at more southerly and easterly Italian ski destinations, but good, especially above 1800m, in the north and west. Despite thin cover, more slopes are open in the Dolomites however and the country’s big regions like Val Gardena, Cervinia and La Thuile-La Rosiere are running at 70-90% open. The Via Lattea area which had only about 40% of its slope open over Christmas week has opened up much more for New Year week, now nearer 70% of its 400km of runs available.
Switzerland
It’s looking good across Swiss ski slopes at the moment with snow depths very healthy, fresh snow falling, cold temperatures and most resorts 90-99% open. The biggest is the 4 Valleys around Verbier which reports almost all of its 400km+ of slopes are open. Other big areas like Zermatt-Cervinia and Samnaun-Ischgl also have 200km or more of their runs skiable. St Moritxz is pictured above.
Pyrenees
The Pyrenees continue to struggle with what have been mostly warm and dry conditions, but that said snowfall is finally forecast over the next few days along with temperatures way down below freezing so hopefully a big improvement can be reported next week. For now, Spain’s Baqueira Beret continues to post the most terrain open – 11-0km of slopes, with the biggest area Andorra’s Grandvalira (Soldeu/Pas de la Casa etc) only having about 80km/40% of its slopes available. Elsewhere some centres on the Spanish side only have 10-20% of their runs open but on the French up to 100%.
Scandinavia
Great conditions overall in Scandinavia with most resorts now 90-100% open, the biggest Sweden’s Are posting over 80km of slopes skiable. However, the past few days have seen an issue with temperatures dipping as low as -25 to -30C making some more exposed lifts deemed too dangerous to operate meaning skiers need to get back indoors every hour or so to avoid frostbite danger. Levi, above, was one of the colder ones.
Scotland
Scotland’s ski season is gradually improving and consistent cold weather is helping. There’s not been a lot of natural snowfall, particularly at lower levels, but it is starting to build higher up and Cairngorm (above) is opening their M1 and White Lady slopes as we publish this week, the only catch is you need to hike up to the lift to access the run, so it’s ‘for experts only’ at present. It and other areas have beginner slopes open and tickets for those are selling out daily. Glenshee also has runs beyond the nursery slopes open though.
Eastern Europe
Mixed reports from Eastern Europe, There have been some good 20-40cm snowfalls in the Czech and Slovak Republics where big areas like Jasna (above) were already fully open, so it’s just better still there. In Bulgaria, warm weather has left brown slopes around the lower pistes but there has been some fresh snowfall and colder temperatures here too over the last few days.
USA
It’s been another mostly dry, not-too-cold week across the US, unfortunately. There have been some snowfalls (after more rain showers in the east) but it hasn’t made a lot of difference, although for most areas things continue to gradually improve. Most areas have had less than half of their average snowfall this season and are posting lower bases in the inches rather than the feet. Almost all big-name resorts are open now but many have only half their runs open, or less. Other than up in Alaska, which is in pretty good shape (although even here one area closed this week blaming rain damage to the snowpack), the best conditions are in the Rockies where some resorts including Utah’s Alta and Snowbird and Colorado’s Steamboat and Winter Park, are posting at least 70% of their terrain open and some of the best snow depths in the country. There has been some snowfall in the east, improving conditions after the rain and Mammoth just saw one of the best snowfalls it’s had this winter, about a foot of snow, and is now up to about 70% open. Unfortunately though despite this though this is turning into one of the worst season starts in many years for most parts of the US. Copper Mountain above.
Canada
Yet another fairly dry week for Canada where lots of ski areas continue to struggle to open even half of their runs. Whistler Blackcomb is now up to 60% and some like Sunshine (pictured above this week), Sun Peaks and Panorama have 70-95% open, but many including Big White, Jasper and others have only 40% open and for Red Mountain it’s only 10%. It’s not much better in the East where ski areas are still battling the impact of rain and struggling to open much either. Consistent cold weather and a decent snowfall are badly needed.
**** Updated Friday, 29 December, 2023 ****
Where is Good to Ski Right Now?
The last week of December has been a largely sunny one across much of Europe, with a storm blowing through the north to spice things up a little. After some big snowfalls in the Alps, heaviest in Austria, a week ago, piste skiers have been enjoying great conditions in the Alps and up in Scandinavia where almost all resorts are open and most with 75-95% of their slopes groomed for the peak Christmas and New Year weeks.
As always it’s not good everywhere. The Pyrenees continue to struggle with warm temperatures and a lack of natural snowfall. Here it’s more like 10-40% of slopes open in most areas although some like France’s La Mongie have managed 100% and Baqueira Beret in Spain has 110km of slopes open despite each having only a 30-50cm base. Scottish centres have also been storm-battered over the past few days and just have small areas of nursery slope created with all-weather snowmaking machines available. It’s looking good over in Scandinavia though where there were some big snowfalls in Norway this week. Eastern European resorts are in pretty good shape although it has been a little warm down in Bulgaria.
Across the Atlantic, it remains a poor start to the 23-24 season almost everywhere, possibly thanks to the strong El Nino. That said more and more terrain has opened and there’s been over a foot of snowfall reported in Colorado.
Austria
There have been some big snowfalls in Austria over the past week – some of the biggest for a few years in fact. The Ziller Valley (above) saw really huge snowfalls just before Christmas, with accumulations of up to a metre in 24 hours reported. There were also big dumps for many other resorts. As a result snow depth totals have jumped across Austria, particularly on higher slopes, with the Arlberg region now posting the deepest snow in the world up high, at over 3.5 metres for Lech and St Anton. Since the snowfall last weekend, it has been much drier though and that’s set to continue into next week with the freezing point at around 1700m.
France
It’s been a mostly sunny week in France after more snowfall at the start of last weekend. That’s given glorious conditions on the groomed runs, of which about 70-80% are open at big regions like the 3 Valleys and Paradiski (Les Arcs/La Plagne) which are also posting some of the deepest snow in the world at over 3 metres (10 feet) up high. The forecast is for more sunshine and warm temperatures in valleys for the coming week into the New Year too. The only real downside is that the snow is melting in lower traditional valley resorts like Morzine. So far not a big problem with pistes created down to resort but it would be nice to have lower temperatures and fresh snow to low elevations before much longer too. Peisey Vallandry pictured.
Italy
Most of Italy has had a predominantly dry week with plenty of sunshine and warm weather in the south. The dolomites are long used to being able to open almost all of their slopes with a thin covering of predominantly machine-made snow and that’s the case now in resorts like Cortina d’Ampezzo which is posting most of its runs open but only a foot of snow lying at most. On the other side of the country, the via Lattea/Milky Way has similar depths but only about a third of its 400km or so of slopes open. It’s not the same, the low snow depths, everywhere though. La Thuile posts nearly 3 metres up high, Cervinia 2 metres. There’s no big change ahead in the forecast although temperatures should be cooler and there’s a chance of some snowfall on New Year’s Eve. Val di Fassa pictured.
Switzerland
Swiss centres have been posting some of the best stats in European skiing this week in terms of the percentage of terrain open (most of the big centres at 90-99%) and snow depths (up to 3 metres). It’s been a sunny week here also and the rest of the snow is in the north and west with cover thinner in regions like the Jungfrau around Wengen, at least on lower slopes and Engadin around St Moritz, although both still have most of their slopes open. The coming week has a more unsettled weather pattern which should mean fresh snowfall. St Moritz pictured.
Pyrenees
It’s been another challenging week for ski areas in the Pyrenees as Spain wraps up its warmest December on record. Most centres are now open but smaller areas sometimes only have 5-10% of their runs available so far as they battle warm, dry weather. That said the bigger resorts mostly have at least 40% of their slopes open. That’s the case for the Grandvalira area of Andorra (Pas de la Casa, Soldeu etc) with Spain’s Baqueira Beret still posting the most open – 70% of their terrain and about 110km of slopes. Unfortunately, there’s not a lot of change in the forecast – continuing mostly dry but a little cooler.
Scandinavia
There were some good snowfalls in Norway this week with some centres reporting as much as 60cm of fresh snowfall in 24 hours. Otherwise, things look good for most resorts across the region. The big players like Sweden’s Are and Norway’s Trysil report slopes 80-90% open for the peak season, although Hemsedal is only ay 60%. Up in the far north where the sun dropped below the horizon in mid-December, it’s due to re-emerge for the New Year on Monday (for example at Levi, pictured above this week).
Scotland
Scotland’s season is underway at Cairngorm, The Lecht and Glenshee (pictured above this week) but so far it is just small areas of nursery slope created using all-weather snowmaking machines rather than any ‘proper’ ski runs. There has been some snowfall this week and consistently low temperatures but really a lot more is needed before resorts can start to open full runs. Glencoe has a dry slope for skiers and a sledging slope with its all-weather snowmaking system. Nevis range has nothing open yet.
Eastern Europe
A bit of a north/south divide in eastern Europe this week with more snowfall and more terrain opening at more northerly centres in The Czech and Slovak Republics and Poland, and more springlike weather at more southerly resorts in Bulgaria and Romania. That said the deepest reported snowpack, about a metre up high, is the same both north and south and so is the amount of terrain with ski areas like Borovets in Bulgaria (above) and Jasna in Slovakia both now reporting that their slopes are almost fully open. Bansko is pictured top.
USA
Ski areas in the US are continuing to suffer a poor start to the 23-24 season with most areas still hoping for a good snowfall to kick things off. The best conditions are reported in the Rockies, particularly Colorado, however, where there was 1-2 feet of snow reported last weekend. Parts of Utah are also doing OK. Snowbird is almost fully open. But on the West Coast it’s an ongoing battle to open more terrain despite some fresh snowfall last week and in the east resorts do get snow but then see temperatures rise and rainfall wash away the snowpack. So colder, snowier weather is needed almost everywhere in the US as we start 2024. Schweitzer in Idaho is pictured above.
Canada
Canadian ski areas are facing very similar issues to those south of the border in the US, with resorts in Quebec in the east of the country forced to close by spells of torrential rain, while those in the west, including the continent’s biggest Whistler Blackcomb, struggling to open much terrain because of the warm temperatures there. The best of the conditions are, as in the US to the south again, in the Rockies, along the Alberta/BC state line. Here resorts like Panorama and Sunshine (pictured above this week) are almost fully open, despite not having much snow lying, most other centres are at 60-80% open, much better than the 40-50% for most areas on the East and West coasts. The forecast is mostly for cold and dry weather across the country into the start of 2024.
**** Updated Friday, 22 December, 2023 ****
It’s beginning to look a lot like Christmas across the world’s ski slopes, particularly in the Alps where the snow is falling again after a sunny start to the week and base depths have reached 3 metres (10 feet) at some areas in the Alps. We’re at the shortest day which means more daylight hours from now on and we’re also about to start the busiest fortnight of the season which means virtually all ski areas are open and that they’re each aiming to open as much terrain as they can.
Currently, that’s easiest in the Alps, where there’s the most snow and up in Scandinavia. Some resorts in Eastern Europe are about there too. However the Pyrenees are in need of more snowfall unfortunately and up in Scotland any snowfall at all would be helpful – centres there are starting to open but just with small nursery slope areas courtesy of all-weather snowmaking machines.
Across in North America, challenging conditions continue, with things actually getting worse on the East Coast with torrential rain earlier this week temporarily closing some centres. Snowfall is badly needed on the west coast too although there has now been some snowfall in California to slightly improve things this week. The Rockies, particularly in Colorado and Utah as well as up in Alberta and Eastern BC seem to have the best of it there at present with some centres almost fully open and a few feet of snow lying.
Austria
After a sunny weekend and start to this week it has turned colder and snowier again over the last few days with temperatures back below freezing day and night right down to low levels, so a good run-up to the Christmas weekend. Snow depths on Austrian slopes are already looking healthier than they did all last season too, so so far so good. Most Austrian areas now have most of their terrain open with the Alberg (St Anton, Lech), Skiwelt (Soll, Ellmau, Westendorf and others) and Ischgl/Samnaun all reporting over 200km of slopes open each this week. Saalbach pictured above.
France
It has been a mostly sunny week in the French Alps after last week’s rain and then snow, with skiers and riders lucky enough to be out there reporting amazing conditions already. The country is reporting the world’s deepest snow (Around 3 metres at La Rosiere and Flaine) and the biggest areas open, including the biggest of them all, the 3 Valleys, nearing 500km open so far and perhaps going for even more for Christmas week. A snowy weekend is forecast then a sunny Christmas week with temperatures warming a little in valleys. Risoul, now open for the season after a delay due to flooding, has now opened and pictured above.
Italy
It’s been a fairly uneventful week in Italy with plenty of sunshine, although some snowfall is arriving as we publish this week’s report. However, the ski racing world’s attention has been on the country with multiple stops on the men’s tour staged here this week. Cervinia is posting the most terrain open in the country, although some of that is over the Swiss border in Zermatt, Passo Tonale’s neighbouring Presena Glacier the deepest snow and Val Gardena the most terrain wholly in Italy, 170km or about 95% of its slopes open already. It’s looking sunny over Christmas and perhaps a little warmer than we’d like down in the valleys. The new cable car opens at Val Senales this week (pictured above)
Switzerland
Swiss ski centres had a mostly dry and sunny week but snow clouds have now moved in and it’s looking like the country could see some of the biggest snowfalls in Europe by Christmas Eve, some areas likely to get more than half-a-metre of fresh cover. Conditions are pretty good already with the 4 Valleys almost fully open and the Zermatt-Cervinia area not far behind. Growing numbers of Swiss resorts are reporting the snow already lying more than 2.5 metres deep including Laax and Saas Fee. So it’s looking good and sunshine is expected to return next week. Glacier 3000 near Gstaad pictured bove.
Pyrenees
Alas, its continuing to be a rather challenging start to the season in the Pyrenees, with the very warm December temperatures continuing, with valley highs still getting into double figures in the afternoons. Smaller, lower resorts are struggling to open at all, bigger higher centres are open but with thin cover so far and limited terrain. Spain’s Baqueira Beret has the most available, over 100km of slopes, with the region’s biggest centre, Andorra’s Grandvalira, incorporating Pas de la Casa, Soldeu and others, managing about a third of their runs so far. Connections between the different resort bases are all open but in some cases, it’s a lift link, not yet a piste one.
Scandinavia
Temperatures did make it a few degrees into positive numbers earlier this week on lower slopes at more southerly Scandinavian centres with sunny skies too (for those not currently in a period of permanent Polar night), but the latter half of the week has seen more cloud, snow showers and temps back down in the -20s overnight for many. Norway’s Trysil and Sweden’s Åre are currently posting the most terrain open in the country. Finlaand’s Levi above.
Scotland
Scotland’s season is getting underway with Cairngorm (pictured above last week) opening a small area of snow slope for beginners thanks to their all-weather snowmaking machines. The Lecht will also be opening a small nursery slope area from Saturday. Neither would have been able to open without their TechnoAlpin SnowFactoy machines as the week started warm, wet and windy, although it has now got a lot colder with some snowfall, but there’s not much snow left for the fresh snow to fall on. Glenshee had aimed to open on Wednesday but was delayed as it was too warm even for all-weather machine-made snow. Glencoe was already open with a toboggan slope and the Lecht has said they want to open a terrain park with their all-weather snowmaker next week. So only Nevis Range is reliant on the natural stuff and not yet open.
Eastern Europe
Bulgaria’s ski season kicked off last weekend with great fresh snow falling with perfect timing after a warm, dry spell. More snowfall has led to more terrain opening with Borovets (pictured top) already nearly 100% open, and Bansko (pictured above) with more than half of its slopes skiable. Jasna in Slovakia, the largest area in the northeast, appears to have better conditions with about 75% of its terrain open and snow depths of up to a metre reported.
USA
Unfortunately, there’s been little improvement in conditions in the US where most ski regions are having a poor start to the season. The exception is Alaska up in the far northwest where there has been several metres of snowfall, and the Rockies which have had several feet and conditions aren’t too bad at all with resorts like Alta, Snowbird, Vail and Aspen reporting some fresh snowfall and most of their terrain open, so not far off normal operations. On the West Coast, it remains dry in California where centres are still battling to reach half their runs open, most not there yet and on the East, there was torrential rain earlier this week temporarily closing most centres.
Canada
Canada has had another mostly dry week, unfortunately, and ski areas on both the West and East coasts are struggling rather with a lack of the white stuff. In Quebec, the problems were exacerbated by warm temperatures and rain to start this week, which closed a number of centres. Over in the West, there’s just not that much terrain open still at North America’s biggest ski area, Whistler Blackcomb. There have been some decent dumps further east in BC and over the provincial border in Alberta, Resorts like Fernie, Panorama and Lake Louise reporting around a metre of snow on their higher slopes and most of their terrain is open. Sunshine, pictured top this week, has lifts running.
**** Updated |Sunday, 17 December, 2023 ****
Where is Good to Ski Right Now?
It’s time to hold our nerves in the Alps where, after some great snowfalls through November and early December, things turned warm and wet to about 2,000m altitude last weekend and remained so for a few days. Not too much damage was done before temperatures dipped again and it actually kept snowing up high throughout but it looks like to weather rollercoaster isn’t over yet with more warm weather for lower elevations next week, although this time it should stay sunny for most. Perhaps this is the new normal?
Elsewhere in Europe Bulgaria’s ski season starts this weekend, with limited terrain initially, its remained very cold up in Scandinavia and resorts are struggling to open much terrain yet in the Pyrenees while they await colder temperatures and a good snowfall, though the big centres and manging to open quite a lot.
Across the Atlantic The Rockies continue to see some good snowfalls and there’s been more snow in the East too, but on the West Coast it remains challenging due to warm, dry weather.
Austria
Despite warming temperatures earlier this week and some tawing on lower slopes, conditions in Austria continue to be much better than they were a year ago with some healthy snow depths o higher slopes, still 30-60cm of snow in valleys and most of the country’s resorts reporting 60-80% of their slopes open already. Ischgl, with the cross-border area linked to Samnaun, still has the most terrain open, about 200km of slopes, but other big regions like the Skiwelt and Arlberg aren’t far behind. Sunny weather and warmer temperatures are expected for the next few days in most areas. The Kaunertal Glacier is pictured above.
France
A bit of a mixed week in the French Alps with temperatures climbing and rainfall to quite high levels earlier in the week. However it then cooled down midweek and we saw more snowfall before `skies cleared and sunshine returned to many areas to end the week. Oh and there were strong winds at times to add to the mix! Despite this snow conditions remain good in most areas after the big snowfalls of December and early November with base depths very healthy for this early in the season. The last of the big French resorts that hadn’t yet opened for 23-24, including Les Arcs, open his weekend. Les Menuires, pictured top, was another new opener.
Italy
Most Italian ski resorts and about half of Italy’s ski slopes are now open highlighting that the proportion of runs open so far is about 50% on average. There’s a big range within that average though, with Val Gardena having 95% of its slopes open, the most for a single destination in the country, over 170km in total. There’s been the same range of weather conditions here and it’s looking a little warm for the week ahead but base depths of up to 2.5m (at Passo Tonale) should mean this isn’t too big a problem and snow has been topping up the cover in the cold spells, Livigno reported 50cm snowfall in the previous 24 hours on Thursday. Kronplatz is pictured above.
Switzerland
Swiss resorts have also seen warm temperatures and some snow loss at lower elevations, Crans Montana, for example, reports kits lower slope base depth down from a metre to 60cm. At this stage though the snow that built up through November has been plenty to see resorts through and there was more snowfall, heavier at altitude, in the latter half of this week. As a result Saas Fee is the second resort in Europe, after Chamonix, to post a 3m base on its highest slopes.
Pyrenees
Conditions continue to be a bit challenging for ski centres in Andorra, Spain and the French Pyrenees with a number of smaller centres still unable to open after the warmest December temperatures on record in Spain. Some fresh snowfall has been reported though and most of the major resorts are open and opening more terrain. Spain’s biggest, Baqueira Beret, will have over 100km of slopes, more than half of its terrain, open this weekend the say. Grandvalira in Andorra has opened all connections and has more than 70km of slopes open.
Scandinavia
It has been another cold (-10 to -30C) week in Scandinavia but without much fresh snowfall. The big resorts like Norway’s Hemsedal and Trysil and Sweden’s Are and Salen continue opening more and more terrain ahead of the busy Christmas weeks, aided y snowmaking systems. Up in the far north, resorts like Levi and Ruka in Finland have entered a three week period of Polar Night when the sun does not appear above the horizon. The slopes are floodlit though (with multi-coloured lights in Ruka – pictured above) so it’s a nice surreal atmosphere for skiers. The sun will be back in the New Year!
Scotland
Scotland’s ski season will definitely start next weekend, if not sooner, with Cairngorm (above) announcing they will offer at least a small beginner area thanks to their all-weather SnowFactory snowmaking machine. Hopefully though they’ll be able to offer more, as will the other Scottish centres which also plan to operate for Christmas week, Glenshee the first to name a date – from this Wednesday. Snow has been falling, it’s just a question of whether there’s enough natural stuff yet.
Eastern Europe
Bulgaria’s 23-24 season got underway on Friday with all of the country’s top centres opening. It’s ‘early season conditions’ with Borovets apologising for the limited amount of terrain the were able to open on day one. there was though, heavy snowfall for the opening weekend, raising sprits considerably. Elsewhere most resorts are now open in other countries like Romania (Poiana Brasov), the Czech Republic (Spindleruv Mlyn) and Slovakia. Here Jasna has the most terrain open and deepest snow (up to a metre) so far in the region. Serbia’s Kopaonik pictured above.
USA
Conditions continue to improve across much of the US after low snowfall in November to start the season. The Rockies have seen some of the best conditions with several feet more snowfall in the last seven days. Snowbird in Utah has opened their Mineral Basin terrain and other centres in Colorado and Utah have more and more runs open while Jackson Hole has gone through the 125” season snowfall total already. Conditions remain challenging on the West Coast where there’s been little natural snowfall and what’s open is mostly thanks to snowmaking. There’s been more snowfall and some powder days in the East though. Snowbird is pictured above, Telluride top.
Canada
The Canadian Rockies continue to post the country’s best conditions with bases now reaching the metre mark after recent snowfalls and centres including Lake Louise (pictured above this week) and Fernie having most of their runs open – the most in the country so far in fact with Whistler Blackcomb on the west still needing more snowfall to be able to open more terrain. Ski centres on the East Cast were closed for a period earlier in the week due to stormy, warm, wet weather but most have now reopened and are reporting fresh snow cover.
**** Updated Friday, 8 December, 2023 ****
Where is Good to Ski Right Now?
Winter is increasing its hold on the northern hemisphere’s ski areas with more snowfalls reported across Europe, North America and Japan. There have not been any massive falls reported, but typically 1-2 feet has landed over the last seven days. Chamonix opened posting the deepest snow in the world, the first over 3m / 10 feet.
Unfortunately, the snow hasn’t just floated down though. There have been gales reported at times, low visibility from fog and low cloud and in the western Alps a brief period of rain to high levels. This mostly led to short-term slope closure due to the winds or high avalanche danger, but the French resort Risoul sadly suffered serious damage to its base from flash floods as it was in the eye of one storm.
Besides that isolated incident though, more and more ski areas have opened for their 23-24 seasons and of course many more will start this weekend. Andorra, Poland, Romania and Slovakia were among the countries where the 23-24 season started last weekend. Already open resorts are opening more and more terrain, we’ve seen the first single area to offer 200km of slopes in 23-24 this week and again this weekend will see bigger still areas open.
Here’s what’s happening where:
Austria
Around half of Austria’s ski areas have opened already and are posting excellent snow conditions in the large part – especially for this early in December and compared to last season. Obertauern, for example, already has snow lying two metres deep from top to bottom of its slopes. All of Austria’s big ski regions are open and for much of the past week (as the one before), the Ischgl-Samnaun area has dominated in terms of terrain open with more than 200km of slopes – the most in the world until this weekend. The Arlberg (St Anton / Lech) held second place. It was a drier week for a while but it has stayed cold and now the snow is falling again so it’s continuing to look good. Including down to low levels at resorts like Kitzbuhel, above.
France
Despite a blip a week ago which saw a brief period of warm, wet weather to high altitudes, resulting in serious damage at the base of Risoul ski area thanks to resulting flash floods, the big picture is still very good for early December in the French Alps. More resorts have been opening early and those that had planned to open, like Argentiere in the Chamonix Valley, report the snow already lying 3 metres (10 feet) deep up top – great news for the season ahead. The forecast looks good for lots more snowfall over the week ahead too. Courchevel, which opened early last weekend is pictured top, Chatel above.
Italy
It’s a big week for Italian ski areas with the giant Dolomiti Superski region fully opening all 12 sectors with over 300 lifts spinning and more than 800 km (500 miles) of runs open, about two-thirds of its full area. In the west of the country, the Milky Way region is also starting operations on the Italian side (Montgenevre on the French side opened last weekend) with the skiing at Sestriere starting. Overall it’s looking great for the first half of December, in part evidenced by how much is open already. The Presena Glacier above Passo Tonale reports the country’s deepest snow with 2.5m lying.
Switzerland
The snowy start to Switzerland’s season continues with more snowfall reported and more snow forecast through the coming week as temperatures stay low. Gstaad’s Glacier 3000 has the country’s deepest snow at 2.2m. The Samnaun/Ischgl cross-border ski area is the first in the world to offer over 200km of slopes open this season but another cross border region Zermatt-Cervinia (above) is catching up fast with about 130km so far. More than a third of Swiss centres are already open for winter 23-24 and that number is set to grow this weekend with many more due to join them.
Pyrenees
The ski season is getting underway in the Pyrenees. Spain’s Baqueira Beret is posting the most runs open so far – about 65km, with Andorra’s Grandvalira (above), which opened at the start of this week, at around 40km initially. There’s not a lot of snow there yet and resorts have been battling with warm temperatures, particularly at their bases, but then temperatures are dropping well below freezing overnight so the extensive snowmaking systems can work at max. Resorts have begun opening on the French side too.
Scandinavia
It continues to be great start to the 23-24 season in Scandinavia where most centres are now open and many have been open a month already now, for Finland’s Levi and Ruka (pictured above) it’s two months. Light snowfall has kept falling and continues to accumulate and stay in great shape tanks to the low temperatures – down to -20C at times. It’s also getting dark around the clock at more northerly latitudes so most skiing is under floodlights. All of the big resorts including Sweden’s Are and Norway’s Hemsedal are open and adding increasing terrain availability daily.
Scotland
Scotland has seen temperatures rise a little from the double digits below freezing at the start of this week, however, they remain close to freeing and the air has more moisture in it with the airflow coming off the Atlantic rather than down from drier areas to the northeast. So Scottish centres have reported snow starting to accumulate and fill in the hollows on higher slopes, fingers crossed, we just need the temperature to stay below freezing and for more to fall. Most centres aim to open Christmas week, whether with natural snowfall and/or with their all-weather snowmaking machines. Glencoe’s machine is already supplying a tobogganing slope and they’ve turned on the access chairlift to help tourers access high-altitude snow.
Eastern Europe
A swathe of ski centres have opened in the Carpathian Mountains across northeastern Europe over the last week, including the biggest, Slovakia’s Jasna as well as Romania’s best-known, Poiana Brasov and Poland’s Zakopane. The Czech Republic’s Špindlerův Mlýn is another with some runs open already. Jasna already has more than half of its 45km of slopes open thanks to early snowfalls which have continued through the past week. There’s been more snowfall at Bansko (above) which opens the weekend after this.
USA
It has not yet been a big start to the season in the US but nonetheless, most of the country’s big resorts have opened now and there have been some relatively good snowfalls this week with most ski areas right across the country seeing at least a foot of snow, more like two feet in the Rockies That let to Utah’s Snowbird closing briefly last weekend due to avalanche danger while Jackson Hole has already reached the 100 inches (2.5 m) snowfall this season to date point. Sunday River in Maine above.
Canada
There’s been an improvement in the snow conditions across Canada over the last seven days with fresh snowfall reported in the East and West. Alberta has topped the fresh snowfall table with Sunshine at Banff posting about 60cm (two feet) of fresh snowfall over the past week and some great powder conditions. However, Whistler Blackcomb has the most terrain open in the country with about 20% of its vast area open already. On the East Coast centres are still battling warm, spells and rain showers but cold and snow are gradually winning it seems with more centres opening in Ontario and Quebec and more terrain available at those that have already opened.
**** Updated Sunday, 2 December, 2023 ****
It’s been a slightly up-and-down week for weather in the Alps but in most respects, the dream start continues with still more early base-building snowfalls. For full disclosure, the only real ‘blip’ was a period of rain to high altitude as temperatures suddenly spiked, but this appears to have been short-lived and actually helped stabilise the snowpack. Stormy weather also closed some centres at times. The week ahead looks predominantly cold and frequently snowy again. So it’s looking good.
Outside the Alps, the first resorts have opened in the Czech and Slovak Republics but the start of the season seems to have stalled slightly in the Pyrenees. Nearly everywhere has opened now in Scandinavia however.
Across the Atlantic, the season start still lacks the big snowfalls that marked the start of last winter 22-23, but there has been more snowfall and most of the continent’s well-known resorts are now open, just without much terrain available yet …but then it is just the start of December.
Austria
A great week for Austria with cold temperatures and snowfall down to low levels. More than 50 of the country’s ski areas are now open and those that have been open a while continue to lead the world in terms of terrain open. The Saalbach and Arlberg regions, including Lech and St Anton, are among the latest big-name centres to open this weekend. Kitzbuhel, Saalbach, The Arlberg, Obergurgl, Solden and Obertauern all have at least 50km of slopes open, with Ischgl leading the world with nearly 200km of slopes open already. Year-round Hintertux has the highest percentage of its runs open already, 52km of its 60km area. Snow falling in Fieberbrunn this week above.
France
It’s mostly good news from France, with still more snowfall and more resorts opening, but not quite all good with a brief spell of rain up to 2,800m altitude reported a few days ago. However that’s actually good news overall, avalanche experts report, as it will stabilise a snowpack that was rather unstable off-piste due to the heavy snowfall and strong winds at times. Newly opened ski areas include Alpe d’Huez, La Clusaz, Les 2 Alpes, Montgenevre and Chamonix Valley (Argentiere) – opening with over 3 metres of snow reported lying, the most in the world for anywhere open to date. They join Val Thorens (pictured above last week) and Tignes, already open a fortnight. The 3 Valleys has also had an early opening of some of its other sectors.
Italy
More Italian centres have opened meaning about a third of the country’s resorts now have at least some runs open. But it’s been a mixed week for weather with more snowfall for most but some suffering from dry, sunny conditions, leading to the temporary closure of some slopes at Madonna di Campiglio (although it looked good when this picture was taken above earlier last week). Val Gardena is one of those newly opened, several days ahead of schedule, initially with just a few runs but planning to fully open from the middle of next week when it will have one of the largest areas open in the world at present.
Switzerland
There’s been a big jump in the number of Swiss areas opening for the season, so now more than 50, or about half of the country’s leading centres have opened. Here too it has been a mixed week for weather with an overall positive picture but with some spells of warm weather bringing rain to quite high levels against periods of snowfall down to low levels. This dynamic pattern, which has also included strong winds at altitude has led to temporary lift and slope closures at times and a moderate to high avalanche risk off-piste. The Samnaun-Ischgl area has just under 200km of slopes open, the most in the country to date, while Glacier 3000 has the deepest snow at 2.4 metres (8 feet) up top. Verbier, pictured above last week, has had nearly a metre of fresh snow but warns the avalanche danger is high. Murren is pictured top last week.
Pyrenees
There seems to be a bit of a delay on the season kick-off in Andorra, with centres saying they’ll open at the start of next week – a key one on the Spanish side of the mountains with a plethora of public holidays making resorts really, really want to have slopes open to attract early-season overnight stays. For now though, there’s not much change on a week ago when Baqueira Beret opened the first runs on the Spanish side and Porte Puymorens the first on the French side. This weekend it’s Font Romeu open instead on the French side. Bases are thin at this early point though, with just 10-30cm of snow lying. Conditions are a little marginal still, with overnight lows of -10C and some snowfall but daytime highs of +10C and some rain at times.
Scandinavia
Another cold week in Scandinavia where all of the region’s big resorts are now open for the season, including the largest, Sweden’s Are and Salen, as well as Norway’s Hemsedal and Trysil (pictured above last week) and Levi, Ruka and Yllas up in Lapland where we’re now early at 24-hours without the sun coming up above the horizon. Although we have again seen the minus 10s and even minus 20s, temperatures did climb up and ut even managed to sleet a little briefly early in the week at more southerly locations, but most have seen clear days with the odd light snow shower. As a result, most lonely have thin bases and 10-20% of their terrain open so far.
Scotland
Scotland has enjoyed a very cold, sometimes snowy week, but there’s not yet enough snowfall to open, despite one newspaper claiming centres were opening early. To be fair all five centres have all-weather snowmaking systems so could open a small amount of terrain if they wished, but most are saying they’ll aim for Christmas week for that when demand is there. Glencoe has though got its access chairlift running to take ski tourers up to the snowline for some early season off-piste.
Eastern Europe
The first ski areas outside the Alps, Pyrenees and Scandinavia have opened in Europe this weekend with centres in the Czech and Slovak Republics now open. They include Czechia’s Špindlerův Mlýn but the region’s largest resort, Jasna in Slovakia, reports the most terrain open, about half of its 45km of slopes, and decent snow cover, particularly on higher slopes. It has been a snowy week with another one forecast ahead. Bulgaria’s ski season is set to kick off in the middle of the month.
USA
Most of America’s leading ski areas are now open and a foot or so of snowfall has been reported both in the Rockies in the west and in New England in the East over the past few days. But it has been a mixed bag with a lot of dry and sometimes warm weather as well as periods of low visibility, so it still feels like winter proper has not really got underway. Most resorts still have thin bases and limited terrain open, although more significant snowfall is now in the forecast. Colorado’s Vail is reporting the most terrain open in the country – but still only about 10% of its full area. Alaska’s Alyeska has opened with the deepest snow in America as that’s the part of the continent that did see a lot of November snowfall.
Canada
Like the US, Canada is also still waiting for a really good snowfall to get the season moving but nonetheless, more areas have been opening. Fernie has opened about 20% of its slopes on opening for the season and currently has the most terrain open in the country. Whistler is just behind with about 10% of its slopes open. Conditions remain challenging in the East with warm weather for December limiting snowmaking operations. Those watching the women’s World Cup GS races at Tremblant at the weekend, unfortunately, saw racers battle on springlike slush and mountain fog in the limited open terrain. The forecast is looking good though with cold, snowy weather expected for the week ahead. Cypress Mountain in BC pictured top.
**** Updated Saturday, 25 November, 2023 ****
Where is Good to Ski Right Now?
We’re into triple figures for the number of ski areas already open in Europe and North America and pre-season conditions remain promising in most areas. There’s been more snowfall to low levels in the Alps and temperatures have remained mostly low while over in the Pyrenees, new snow has allowed ski areas to start opening here for the season.
More resorts are now open in the Dolomites too, the largest opening with 50km of slopes open from day one. Over in North America, most of the continent’s big resorts are now open, including the biggest, Park City and Whistler Blackcomb. For US resorts many wanted to be open for the current Thanksgiving holiday weekend. There’s been less snowfall here than in the Alps so far but reported falls of up to about a foot more snow in the Rockies have improved things and it’s been cold enough for snowmaking systems to run at full pelt.
Austria
Austria, and particularly the Tirol region, continues to lead the world when it comes to the amount of terrain open at its resorts so far. Ischgl jumped to the world’s number one spot with 112km of slopes open from day one when it opened on Thursday. It overtook Solden which had reached 100km of slopes open itself, the first in the world this season to get to triple figures. Nearby Obergurgl is in third place with 70km open already. Often needing snowmaking to open its terrain in November, this year Ischgl says it has had up to 60cm (two feet) of natural snowfall, and there’s been more falling across the country down to low levels over the past few days. The Stubai Glacier pictured this week.
France
The French ski season was due to have begun this weekend at Tignes (lift opening day at Tignes last weekend pictured above) and Val Thorens but because of the heavy snowfall in the French Alps in the first half of this month, is already a week old, after those two centres opened early. That said dlown in the Pyrenees Porte Puymorens reported some ski slopes open this weekend. Most other French resorts plan to open over the first three weekends of December with resorts like Chamonix, Montgenevre and Les 2 Alpes lined up to open next weekend. It has been another week of mostly promising weather in the French mountains with the snowline dropping again with lower temperatures and more snowfall.
Italy
Another good very early season week in Italy with cool temperatures and some fresh snowfall and the number of centres open here is now up into double figures. Big name centres already open include Cortina d’Ampezzo, Madonna di Campiglio (above this week), Livigno and Kronplatz. The latter has opened with the most terrain open in the country so far – 50km of slopes. However, less well-known Sulden has the deepest reported snow in the country at 1.2 metres.
Switzerland
Switzerland now leads Europe in terms of the number of ski centres open, reaching almost 20 ski areas with at least some runs open this weekend. There are also more runs available at centres that are open, with Zermatt/Cervinia nearly doubling up from 30km a week ago to 60km this and the newly opened Corviglia area at St Moritz posing even more. However, the Samnaun/Ischgl area has taken the top spot with 120km (75 miles) of runs open this weekend. There’s more and more terrain open and in further good news, temperatures have been very low, hardly getting above freezing, with more snow falling too. Glacier 3000 is pictured above.
Pyrenees
The Pyrenees have had a positive change in the weather since the start of this week with temperatures dropping and a decent amount of fresh snow falling too. Snowmaking systems have also fired up with many of the region’s larger centres due to begin opening for the season from next weekend. Baqueira Beret (pictured above this week) announced it was opening a week earlier than expected, this weekend, thanks to snowfall there.
Scandinavia
Another great week for Scandinavian ski areas as temperatures appear to dip ever colder and daylight hours start to disappear altogether, until January, up in the Arctic Circle. -25C has been spotted up in Levi and Ruka in Lapland which are already nearly two months into their 23-24 seasons. The region’s big-name resorts including Are (pictured above) and Salen in Sweden and Hemsedal, Trysil and Geilo in Norway are all open now too. There have been some good 20-40cm snowfalls reported by some Norwegian areas including Roldal.
Scotland
Scotland has had slightly warmer weather on some days over this past week but also continued to see overnight lows dipping well below freezing most nights on ski slopes. Not much fresh natural snowfall to report this week but Glencoe has had a test firing of its all-weather snowmaking system and said it hopes to open sledging in a fortnight and its access chairlift for ski tourers wanting a lift up, at the start of December.
Eastern Europe
It continues to look promising for the start of the season for most ski centres in Eastern Europe. Slovakia’s largest, Jasna, has been posting images of snow lying a foot deep on higher slopes (above) and Bansko, the biggest in Bulgaria, has had more snowfall too. Most Eastern European centres aim to open over the first three weekends of December.
USA
An improving picture in the US with resorts in the Rockies posting up to a foot of snowfall at the start of the week. Then midweek there was a decent dump on the East Coast too (Sugarloaf in Mazine pictured this week above). Both were much needed, especially as resorts battled to open for the big Thanksgiving holiday. Lots of the country’s big resorts are indeed now open right across the country. However, there’s still not much open at most resorts with most only having a foot or less of snow cover and limited terrain open so far.
Canada
The season is starting to find its rhythm in Western Canada with a decent 30-40cm dump in Alberta which Banff’s Norquay declared was “the snowfall we’ve been waiting for”. Lake Louise is pictured top and above – about to open new terrain this weekend. The country and continent’s biggest resort, Whistler Blackcomb, has started its season and reports about 10% of its vast terrain open so far. The season is also getting underway in the east of the country too, mostly thanks to snowmaking but with some natural snow too. The biggest area here, Tremblant, has a few runs open and another big player Mont Ste Anne opens this weekend.
**** Updated Saturday, 18 November, 2023 ****
Where is Good to Ski Right Now?
The number of ski areas open worldwide continues to grow rapidly, passing the 60 mark this weekend, with about a 60%/40% split Europe to North America. We’re set to reach triple figures before next weekend.
A lot of ski areas in the alps are opening a week or more earlier than planned with Crans Montana, Laax, Livigno, Madonna di Campiglio and Passo Tonale among those doing so this weekend. So too did Tignes and Val Thorens, starting the French ski season.
The Alps have seen more snowfall, down to low levels in Austria over the last few days, although there has also been thawing and rain on some lower slopes after the big falls in the first half of the month, pretty normal as things settle down to winter in the latter half of autumn. It has remained cold up in Scandinavia where big name resorts like Are and Trysil are now open..
Over in the US it remains a mixed picture with more East Coast resorts opening (including Sunday River pictured top) and the biggest in the US, Park City (pictured above), but some including Telluride have delayed opening due to too little snowfall there.
Austria
Austrian ski areas have seen some of the best snowfall of the past few days with Lech and St Anton both posting images of heavy snowfall down to street level on Saturday. There are about a dozen ski areas open with Obergurgl the latest non-glacier area to join, opening with over 50km of runs open while its Otztal neighbour in Tirol, Solden, has jumped to over 90km of slopes open, up 50% on a week ago and remaining the most in the world at present. In fact there two have the most open on the planet at present, followed by two more Tirol areas, Hintertux and Stubai, each with nearly 40km open. They’re perhaps all preparing for next Thursday which sees Ischgl opening and its currently reporting great snow conditions ahead of opening day. It often manages to have over 100km of slopes open from day one, even in poor snow autumns.
France
The French ski season is due to get underway this weekend with both Tignes and Val Thorens (pictured above a few days before opening), which had planned to be the first in the country to open at the end of next week, bringing their opening dates forward by a week after receiving more than a metre of snowfall above 2,000m. The past week has, unfortunately, seen a bit of a set back as you might expect for mid-November with some fast thawing on lower slopes as well as rain and gales at times but Tignes still aims to open with 1300m of skiable vertical this weekend.
Italy
The choice of ski areas open in Italy has jumped this week with Livigno (above), Madonna di Campiglio and the Presena glacier by Passo Tonale all opening early and doubling the choice of resorts open already here. The move follows more than a metre of snowfall on higher slopes in the first half of November creating great early-season conditions on higher runs. You can now also ski on the Italian side of the border down from the glacier at Zermatt-Cervinia.
Switzerland
Swiss ski centres have seen another week of snowfall, if not so much as the previous fortnight, but things still remain good and more than a dozen areas are open this weekend (18-19 November), the most for any single country in Europe. Andermatt, Crans Montana, Grimentz and Laax were among the areas newly opening, joining the likes of Arosa, Davos, Engelberg, Gstaad, Murren, Saas Fee, St Moritz and Zermatt. Andermatt (pictured above) reported 80cm of fresh snowfall lying for its opening day.
Pyrenees
There’s been some snowfall on higher slopes in the Pyrenees but no ski areas are known to have opened for the season there yet and most targeting the first weekend in December in a fortnight’s time.
Scandinavia
It continues to be very cold in Scandinavia and daylight hours are dropping away quickly too with more northerly areas due to start a month or so without the sun appearing above the horizon in just a few weeks’ time. Big name resorts including Are in Sweden, which has the largest ski area in the region as well as Trysil in Norway are now open, but none of the dozen or so areas now open have much terrain available yet. The most, 7km of slopes, is on offer at Finland’s largest resort, Levi, where temperatures have been down to the -15 to -25C range this week. It’s Lapland neighbour Ruka is pictured above.
Scotland
Scotland’s season is edging nearer with another week of low temperatures and more snowfall on higher peaks in the Highlands. Nowhere’s open yet but centres have started to announce opening plans. Cairngorm say they’ll wait to Christmas week, by which time they hope the funicular, out of action once more, will be fixed. Glencoe will run their access chairlift and start making snow with their all-weather Snow-factory from the start of December.
Eastern Europe
There’s been more snowfall on high slopes in many mountain ranges of Eastern Europe. It’s currently looking particularly good at Slovakia’s largest resort, Jasna. There has also been snowfall reported for Bansko, the largest resort in Bulgaria. However most areas won’t be aiming to open until early December or later, although that’s now just a fortnight away.
USA
The US ski season continues to come to life but we’re yet to see the big snowfalls in either East or Western US that we’ve seen in the Alps and the last big snowfalls (1 foot plus) were recorded back in late October for most areas. Instead there’s been a lot of sunshine, some rain and not much snow yet. But resorts are opening with small amounts of terrain available, including the largest, Park City, as Utah’s season gets underway. On the East coast more centres have opened too, joining Killington, including Maine’s largest Sugarloaf (pictured above this week) and Sunday River, both offering top-to-bottom runs.
Canada
There’s still not a whole lot open for the 23-24 season yet in Canada, either in the number of resorts or the amount of terrain available at those centres that are open, and we’re really still waiting a big, prolonged, snowfall, but it is a gradually improving picture, especially in the west where about half a dozen resorts are now open with Sun Peaks (above)the first in BC to d so, pictured above, and due to be joined by the biggest in the country and North America, Whistler Blackcomb, in just a few days’ time.
**** Updated Saturday, 11 November, 2023 ****
Where is Good to Ski Right Now?
The main snow news this week continues to be from the Alps where some centres have reported another 30-60cm of snowfall following similar accumulations at the end of last week, so a growing number have now had over a metre of snow on high slopes and it’s looking good for the start of the season. With that in mind, more resorts including big names like Cortina d’Ambezzo, Davos, Kitzbuhel and Verbier have now opened for 23-24 while the first French centres, Tignes and Val d’Isere will open next weekend, a week earlier than originally planned, thanks to the snow. Scandinavia continues to look good too and there’s been more snowfall, though nothing open yet, in other mountain ranges.
Across the Atlantic the US there’s not been much fresh snow but the country has leapt to first place for most areas open, the first to reach double-figures for the 23-24 season. Seven of these are in Colorado where Breckenridge and Vail just opened. California’s season is also underway with Mammoth among the first to open only 3 months after its 22-23 season ended in August.
Austria
Austria will most likely be the first European nation to have 10 centres open next weekend when Obergurgl (pictured above) is scheduled to open. It also has the ski areas with the most terrain open, topped by Solden, which has staged its winter opening this weekend and expanded its available slopes beyond its glacier to 60km of runs – far more than the less than 10km most of the 40 or so areas open worldwide can offer. Hintertux and Stubai have the 2nd and 3rd most in the world with over 30km of runs open each. Kitzbuhel and Schladming opened at the weekend joining the seven glacier areas already open..
France
The snow keeps falling on the French Alps and to some extent, the Pyrenees with many resorts now posting over a metre accumulated in the past week above about 2,500m, but with snow down to around 1,400m in places. There remains nowhere open as yet but Tignes has now broken ranks and says it will open a week earlier than planned, next weekend (18th) with skiing over 1300 vertical metres from day one, down from the glacier.
“We have snow down to Croisette at 1800m and temperatures are low. This is a great start to the season so far. There is more snow in the forecast for next week alongside these cool air temperatures and we are excited for our opening date of 9th December,” said Marlene Giacometti, Les Menuires Tourist Office Director.
Italy
Italian resorts have also seen plenty more snowfall in both the Alps in the west and the Dolomites. Cortina d’Ampezzo’s Col Galina area has opened joining already open Sulden. Madonna di Campiglio and the Presena Glacier are both expected to open early, next weekend, and Cervinia (pictured above), which now provides year-round access to the glacier skiing above Zermatt and is currently on the world ski racing stage as successive weekends of World Cup downhill racing are underway there, has announced that some runs on its side of the border will open this week.
Christina Demetz from Val Gardena Tourist Office comments, ” We have winter storms hitting Val Gardena this week and already we have 30cm of snow on the mountains. We are due to open on the 5th December and this cold weather and early snow is great to see.”
Switzerland
We have up to nine ski areas open in Switzerland now, although about half of these are only opening at weekends in November. Newly opened for 23-24 this weekend are Arosa (pictured top), Davos and Verbier (pictured above) with Adelboden opening some cross-country tracks but not downhill runs. They join already open Gstaad (Glacier 3000), Murren, St Moritz (Diavolezza Glacier), Saas Fee and Zermatt. All report great conditions thanks to abundant snowfall over the past week. Davos has skiing accessed by the Parsenn funicular railway is taking skiers and boarders up to the ski area with the “Totalp”, “Rapid”, “Furka” and “Kreuzweg” lifts and their associated pistes all open. The summit lift is also in operation for freeriders, with the East summit having no groomed piste.
Pyrenees
There’s been more snowfall in the Pyrenees over the past week, particularly on higher slopes, but there remains nowhere open as yet. Most centres plan to open on the first weekend of December.
Scandinavia
Scandinavia’s ski season is really starting to take off with more small centres opening across the region and big names like Are and Trysil set to open next weekend. It’s also stayed cold with more snow falling. Levi in Lapland (above) is already into the second month of its season and has been staging World Cup racing this weekend with the first women’s slalom races of winter.
Scotland
Scotland saw cold weather this week with overnight lows down to -8C in the Highlands. There has been precipitation too but not at the same time so that’s been fain at low levels. However Glencoe (above, cam pic credit Winter Highland) did hit the sweet spot and saw its slopes turn white down to quite low levels, others saw snow up high. Nowhere open yet although the all-weather snowmaking systems could really be fired up as soon as the centres like now.
Eastern Europe
There’s nowhere open in Eastern Europe yet but early signs are promising with more snowfalls. Serbia’s Kopaonik was among the latest to post fresh snow images on social media.
USA
A mostly dry and sunny week across the US but it has been getting colder again allowing snowmaking systems to fire up and there have been some snow flurries. California’s ski season got underway on Friday after a couple of inches of snowfall there with Mammoth (pictured above) and Mt Rose opening. However Colorado is dominating with seven resorts already open, including Breckenridge, Loveland and Vail which opened Friday, Copper will be the eighth on Monday. Dozens more ski areas including the largest Park City in Utah, are scheduled to open later this week.
Canada
There’s been more light snowfall in western Canada where it’s a gradually improving picture but there’s not a great deal of change on a week ago. The third of Banff’s ‘Big 3’ ski areas, Sunshine, has opened joining Norquay and Lake Louise but Jasper’s Marmot Basin has delayed opening by a week. There are a handful of other areas open, each with just a few kilometres of runs so far, including one small centre in Quebec in the east thanks to snowmaking.
**** Updated Sunday, 5 November, 2023 ****
We’re back with our winter 23-24 reports and it’s great to be able to report heavy snowfall in the Alps for the start of November. We’re seeing up to 60cm (two feet) in 48 hours up on glaciers and snow falling right down to the valley floor for the first time this autumn. Against that we have to report another warm, dry early half of the autumn means there’s lost ground to catch up, but there are now more than a dozen glacier areas open, most in Austria or Switzerland. It’s been more consistently cold and snowy for longer in Scandinavia where half a dozen resorts are already open and there’s also snow falling, but no lifts spinning yet, in the Pyrenees and in Eastern Europe.
Across the pond North America’s 23-24 season is now underway with the first half dozen areas open in the Rockies, both in Colorado and up in Alberta, Canada. A few centres have also used snowmaking to open in Vermont, Quebec and the Midwest for a total of 10 resorts open so far, but that number is likely to double by next weekend.
Austria
We’ve seen some heavy snowfalls in Austria over the last few days, stepping up a transformation that began about a fortnight ago now as temperatures dropped after a warm first half of autumn. Glacier areas reported up to 60cm of snowfall in just 48 hours at the end of the week and there was also the first snowfall down to valley floors. Seven glacier resorts are already open, mostly in Tirol and the most areas open in the world at present. They include Hintertux (above), Kaunertal, Pitztal, Solden and the Stubai, which have been open since October or before and the Kitzsteinhorn above Kaprun and the Molltal which opened this weekend.
France
French ski resorts saw snowfall down to the valley floor at the end of last week with a healthy covering of snow for resorts like Châtel (pictured above on Friday) and Megeve, up on high slopes there’s been much with the snow looking to be 20-50cm deep up above 2500m for resorts like Les arcs and Val d’Isere. But with Tignes deciding not to open until the end of this month this year, there remains nowhere open in France. Val Thorens and Chamonix also plan to open in the final days of November.
Italy
The Sulden ski area (above on Friday) opens on Monday, 6th November, and from webcam images is in good shape for the season ahead. Italy has also had a lot of snowfall on higher slopes over the last few days, with Livigno reporting 50cm there. You can also access the glacier skiing above Zermatt from Cervini and the two resorts will be hosting the first cross-border FIS World Cup Downhill races over the coming two weekends, weather permitting.
Switzerland
Swiss centres have seen some big snowfalls over the past week, so much so that the Glacier 3000 ski area near Gstaad announced it was delaying its planned season opening on Sunday until next Friday by which time it hopes to have fully prepped the slopes and dug out after several feet of snowfall. However, Mürren did manage to open some runs on the Schilthorn, joining already open Saas Fee, Zermatt and St Moritz (Diavolezza Glacier). Verbier says it will announce its season start imminently and has been prepping its slopes with groomers after the fresh snow, the first runs above Davos are also expected to open next weekend.
Pyrenees
The ski season in the Pyrenees doesn’t usually start until the final weekend of November with Andorra’s ski areas targeting December 1st for opening day this winter. However, we have had snowfall on high slopes over the past few days. For many this is the second or third snowfall of the autumn to date, but for some the first and down to lower elevations too. If it continues to be cold with more snow some areas may open early as has happened in the past November, but a lot more snow is needed at this point. Spain’s Baqueira Beret pictured above on Friday.
Scandinavia
Half a dozen ski areas are already open for the 23-24 season in Finland, Norway and Sweden. The region has seen wintery conditions over the past month when it was much warmer in the Alps, and now northern areas are seeing snow showers and staying below-freezing days and nights. Open areas include Kvitfjell in Norway and Idre Fjall in Sweden (above). Finland’s Levi and Ruka which used snow farming to open runs a month ago are now in full winter mode with natural snowfall turning the surrounding mountainscape from brown to white.
Scotland
Scotland’s ski areas saw snowfall down as low as 300m above sea level this week and subzero temperatures. There’s nowhere planning to open until early December but several centres could open earlier if there’s a good autumn snowfall.
Eastern Europe
Most Eastern European ski areas won’t aim to open until the very end of this month or more likely the start of December but there has been some snowfall in the last few days on higher slopes up in the Czech and Slovak Republics and further east.
USA
The US ski season got underway in the final few days of October and more ski areas are opening by the day. Colorado’s Arapahoe Basin (above), Eldora and Keystone have all opened and more areas, including Loveland, Breckenridge and Vail are expected to open in the coming week. The first ski area on the West Coast, Mammoth, is also expected to open only three months after its 22-23 season ended last August. There are several centres open in the Midwest too. Killington opened at the weekend, the first in the east. It has been a sunny period in the west over the last few days after big snowfalls a week ago. In the East and Midwest, it is snowmaking that has allowed centres to open thanks to a temperature drop although there has been a little fresh snowfall too.
Canada
Canada’s 23-24 season got underway on Thursday, but unexpectedly it was Mont St Sauveiur ski area in Quebec that opened a run thanks to snowmaking as temperatures dipped. The first planned opening, Mt Norquay near Banff, had already been brought forward from Saturday to Friday and it was joined by Lake Louise opening a week early, then Nakiska opened on Saturday (initially weekends only), so we have four Canadian ski areas open so far, with Jasper and a fifth Albertan ski area, Sunshine, expected to join them later this week. They’re all opening as full winter conditions dominate in the west of Canada thanks to a quick transition from fall to winter. There’s been some snow in the east too but here there’s more of a reliance on snowmaking.
**** Updated Saturday, 22 April, 2023 ****
Where is Good to Ski Right Now?
Around 95% of ski areas in the northern hemisphere have now closed and by Monday we’ll be at 97%, but it has kept snowing, at least on higher slopes in the Alps, The Rockies and various other mountain ranges around the world.
The snowfall on high slopes in the Alps has been going on for about a fortnight now, with temperatures staying close to freezing. Remarkably, for this far into Spring, bases are still increasing, including the deepest in Europe at Tignes, up to 462cm now. The season is over, or almost in Eastern Europe and the Pyrenees with all ski areas in Andorra, Bulgaria and Spain now closed.
In North America, it has been very warm in the east and most ski areas are closed, though half-a-dozen battle on. In the west, the great thaw, bringing with it fears of flooding, is underway and more areas have closed, but dozens have extended their seasons into May and there have been more significant snow showers on higher slopes here too.
Austria
It’s the final week of the season for some of Austria’s best-known resorts, including Ischgl, Obertauern and Obergurgl – each aiming to stay open to May 1st and clock up their regular 5-month plus ski seasons. They’ve had more fresh snowfall on higher slopes in the last week so it should be a good final bash. The Arlberg region including St Anton closes this weekend but half-dozen Austrian glacier areas will stay open into May. They include the Kaunertal, open another 5 weeks and pictured above with fresh snow this week.
France
French resorts have not seen the snowfalls reported further east in the last week, although a few light showers have registered. But Tignes continues to post the deepest base in Europe at over 4.5 metres (15 feet) up on its glaciers, and along with neighbouring Val d’Isere as well as Val Thorens, has plans to stay open for another fortnight. Les 2 Alpes closes this weekend but plans to re-open in just a week’s time for two months of glacier skiing, meaning there’ll be no end to the French ski season next month. La Plagne is pictured above this week.
Italy
We are down to single figures for the number of Italian ski centres still open for the 22-23 ski season, but the snow keeps falling with ski areas in the Dolomites reporting snowfall to low levels on Thursday/Friday (Val di Fassa pictured above) and high-altitude Italian slopes above 2,500m seeing several snowfalls this week. Five Italian centres expect to stay open until May 1st, or later, Cortina, the Presena Glacier above Passo Tonale and Livigno (which reported 26cm of snowfall in the previous 24 hours on Friday morning) remain open daily with Macugnaga opening for weekends. Cervinia will be the last area still open a week later.
Switzerland
The centre is of course winding down in Switzerland as everywhere north of the equator and there are just over a dozen Swiss ski areas open this weekend, a number which will halve as we enter May in a week’s time. Davos and Verbier are among the areas where it’s closing weekend. As with the rest of the Alps, we’ve seen fresh snowfall on Swiss slopes above about 2,000m, with resorts like Zermatt posting up to 30cm of fresh in a 24-hour period. Swiss resorts open to May 1st include Andermatt’s Gemsstock freeride area and Samnaun with its cross-border link to Ischgl. Then a week later on the 7th, it’s Adelboden, the Diavolezza glacier near St Moritz, Engelberg and Glacier 3000 near Gstaad/Les Diablerets. That will leave just Zermatt aiming to keep its glacier area, Europe’s highest, open all year round. Murren, pictured above and open to the 30th April, has been hosting the Swatch Nines event.
Pyrenees
The ski season in the Pyrenees is more or less over. All the ski areas in Andorra and Spain are believed to have ended their seasons, leaving Cauterets in France the only area still open – and its season end is expected to be this coming Sunday.
Scandinavia
Scandinavia comes into its own for spring skiing and while it has been a rather warmer week than usual in most of the region’s ski areas, most of the big resorts continue to have almost all their slopes open and most plan to stay open into May. For Lapland Ruka (pictured above) and Levi will continue a week into next month and Sweden’s “Spring skiing capital” Riksgransen will be open most of the month with 24-hour daylight arriving in just over a fortnight’s time. More than half of the region’s ski areas remain open (its less than 10% in most other countries), with the biggest, Sweden’s Are, still having 90% of its slopes open.
Scotland
Scotland’s ski season ended last weekend when Cairngorm gave up on its last few runs still open in the Ptarmigan basin. It had been the only centre with lift=p-accessed in-bounds terrain open. Glencoe, on the other hand, has been offering chairlift access to ski-touring terrain outside its borders. Even that high-altitude snow has suffered with a week of very warm, sunny weather in the Highlands. Next week should see a return to winter with fresh snowfall forecast.
Eastern Europe
Most ski areas in Eastern Europe have now closed, including all centres in Bulgaria. However several centres are planning to make it to the start of May, including Slovakia’s largest resort, Jasna, as well as Kanin on the Slovenian/Italian border which is famed for its late-season spring skiing into May.
USA
The US continues to see snow falling on high slopes in the Rockies and on the Pacific coast, although at the same time, the spring thaw is gathering pace with Utah declaring a state of emergency over flooding fears as a result. More ski areas have closed for the season but several dozen are staying open into May thanks to the huge snowpack, lying typically double its normal thickness for late April. Solitude in Utah (pictured above) is one of those with a month of the season remaining there, having already just made it to their longest season ever, passing the previous record of 160 days on Thursday.
Canada
Canada’s season is winding down but here too ski areas in the west have been reporting more late-season snowfall up high. The continent’s biggest, Whistler, has now closed Whistler Mountain for the season but will continue snow sports on Blackcomb until 22nd May, which will probably be the last day of Canada’s 22-23 season, with Sunshine ski area near Banff also planning to close then Grouse Mountain, Mt Norquay and Marmot Basin at Jasper (pictured top) all planning to stay open another week to May 1st and Lake Louise another week after that The season is more or less over in the East only Sommet St Sauveur may keep a terrain park open at weekends into May, as it often does. It’s Tremblant’s (pictured above) closing weekend this weekend.
**** Updated Saturday, 15 April, 2023 ****
It’s been a remarkably snowy week on high slopes in the Alps with up to three feet (90cm) of snowfall over the latter half of this week and real midwinter conditions. Of course, all the snowfall is arriving just as most ski areas have already closed for the season, or will after this Sunday. But for those still operating their higher terrain, and there are still hundreds of resorts open, it’s been a fantastic late-season bonus. There’s been fresh snowfall in Scandinavia too, where most resorts are still open, and in Scotland, where sadly they’re not, for skiing at least. Further south a few snow flurries up high for the final few areas still open in the Balkans and Pyrenees.
Over in North America, it is feeling springlike across the continent although there’s been some snowfall reported, lighter than it has been for the past six months, in the Rockies. Here too many ski areas have closed or will be closed this coming Monday. But more ski areas have been extending their seasons later into May too.
Austria
It’s slightly ironic that high slopes in the Austrian Alps have seen some of the snowiest weather of the season so far just as most of the country’s ski areas have closed for the season. It’s good news too though for those centres that are planning to stay open into May or beyond though of course. Solden, which has been posting the country’s deepest snow for more than six months now has over 3 metres./10 feet lying after receiving more than two feet (60cm) of snow up above 3,000m over the past 72 hours. The Molltal glacier, open to late May, posted a similar snowfall total but was closed Friday due to strong winds. The year-round Hintertux glacier topped the snowfall table though with nearly a metre of snowfall since Tuesday on its highest runs. Lech is pictured top this week.
France
It’s been a snowy week on higher French slopes just as more resorts wind down their seasons. Initially, la Clusaz was posting the most snowfall with 30-40cm on its higher slopes just as it closed most down after the easter weekend, leaving the main Balme area open. But the Chamonix Valley then posted a slightly higher 50cm total for its highest runs, eventually overtaken by Les 2 Alpes with nearly 60cm (2 feet) up above 3,000m altitude over 72 hours. The cold and snowy weather is continuing through the weekend and looks to be good news for those booked to ski areas open into May like Tignes (pictured above this week) , Val d’Isere and Val Thorens.
Italy
Most of Italy’s ski areas have now closed with more joining them this weekend, but like the rest of the Alps, and in Italy’s case the Dolomites too, there’s been fresh snowfall on the country’s slopes over the last few days – whether they’re still open or not. The country’s deepest base has gone over 3 metres – 10 feet, for the first time this season thanks to the snowfall at La Thuile on the French border. It’s open for one more week. The Cervinia-Zermatt ski area, which stays open for the first week of May, is posting the most still-open terrain in the country though, albeit with some in Switzerland – around 130km (80 miles) of slopes. Val di Fassa is pictured above on Friday.
Switzerland
Swiss centres have seen their share of snowfall too, just as more resorts there end their 22-23 seasons. Engelberg, which often has one of the deepest snowpacks in the Alps although not this year, has seen one of its biggest snowfalls of the year up on its Titlis glacier, getting more than 60cm (2 feet) of snow. It’s open well into May. Davos (pictured above on April 14th), another ski area with high slopes and a long season, has had more than 45cm (18”).
Pyrenees
We are down to just three ski areas still open in the Pyrenees and that number will probably drop to just one from Monday. The biggest – Andorra’s Grandvalira is among those into their final weekend, both with much-reduced terrain left open, Grandvalira having closed its Soldeu-El Tarter sector last weekend. It has actually been colder this last week with snow reported on the highest slopes. The only centre currently expected to stay open next week is Cauterets, on the French side of the ski area.
Scandinavia
Scandinavia continues to stand out as the destination where most ski areas remain open, and in most cases fully open. The largest centre in Scandinavia, Sweden’s Are, remains 90% open and Norway’s Trysil reported 30cm (A foot) of fresh snowfall on Thursday. Hemsedal is pictured above.
Scotland
Scotland’s ski slopes have turned white over the past few days with some cold overnight temperatures and fresh snow. It’s not enough for terrain to reopen, and the coming week is set to be warm and sunny, but Nevis Range (pictured above on Friday) and Glencoe both offered sledging and the latter also highlighted their access to refreshed high-altitude ski touring terrain via chairlift. The only runs still open are a couple of trails on soft snow in the Ptarmigan Bowl above Cairngorm near Aviemore.
Eastern Europe
It’s the final weekend of the season for most ski areas in the Balkans that are still open, with the biggest, Bansko (pictured above on Friday), closing after Sunday. Further north in the Czech and Slovak Republics, some centres plan to continue for another week or so, with that plan boosted by cold temperatures and fresh snowfall. Jasna has announced that it intends to stay open until May 1st and still has nearly half its runs open and a nearly 2m base up top.
USA
Spring has sprung in the US and there’s been plenty of sunshine and warm weather right across the country and much less snowfall. The huge snowpacks that have built up in the west through five months of snowfall are finally starting to diminish. At the same time, more and more centres have been ending their regular seasons. Some though have announced they’re staying open longer. The country’s biggest ski area, Park City, now says it will stay open until 1st May, making it the fourth Utah ski area to stay open until next month and joining five in Colorado also planning to make it into May along with a dozen or so more across other western US states. Cannon, in the East, where temperatures are reported to have been reaching 80F, is pictured above.
Canada
About half of Canada’s ski areas are closed with more closing after Sunday but it has kept snowing with resorts in the Canadian Rockies posting up to 15cm (5″) of fresh snowfall in the past few days. Ski areas including Sunshine (above), Marmot Basin, Lake Louise and Whistler are all staying open into May. Over in the East, it’s been getting warmer but some centres are still open using their diminishing snowpack as a base. Massif du Sud reports it still has 100% of its terrain open for its final weekend.
**** Updated Saturday, 8 April, 2023 ****
We may have reached Easter weekend but Mother Nature doesn’t seem to want to let up on winter, in some cases perhaps realising she dropped the ball when it was supposed to be wintery …back in wintertime and now trying to cram the cold and snow into April. It’s obviously good news for still open centres and those skiers and boarders lucky enough to be out there for Easter week.
It is snowing again on higher slopes for the third weekend in a row in the Alps, further improving conditions at centres still open, particularly up high. It’s been snowing again too in North America, where some resorts would actually like it to stop so they can just enjoy a few weeks without having to once again dig our lifts and make slopes avalanche-safe and actually get to enjoy it all before closing day. More have been extending their seasons later into April or even May to increase the chance of that.
Elsewhere it’s a bit warmer in Scandinavia but conditions are still good with long daylight hours now. Eastern Europe has had fresh snowfall this week. The Pyrenees have too but there’s a definite end-of-the-season feel there and in Scotland, unfortunately, almost everything is now closed.
Overall most ski areas will be closed after the easter week concludes but several hundred will be continuing on into the latter half of April and some beyond.
Austria
It’s a cold and often snowy weekend in the Austrian Alps, with many ski areas reporting 5-10cm of fresh snowfall on their higher slopes to start the Easter weekend. Most will be closing either from Monday or at the end of this week but a few dozen centres with higher altitude slopes including glacier centres will stay open into the latter half of April and even into May. Among them are Ischgl and St Anton, each open to May 1st, which still both have hundreds of kilometres of slopes open for the final weeks of the season. Kitzbuhel is pictured above.
France
It’s a cold and snowy weekend in the French Alps too, with lots of centres posting some nice 5-15cm fresh snow top-ups for their higher slopes on Good Friday, perfectly timed. Most of the major French centres remain open with most still having 70-90% of their terrain open, but they’ll begin closing over the next few weekends, the last Tignes, Val d’Isere and Val Thorens in early May, although Les 2 Alpes currently plans to re-open for summer skiing in May and June after a brief closure at the end of April. French resorts continue to post the deepest snow in Europe with Les Arcs and Tignes both with snow lying more than 4 metres deep on higher runs. Snow falling at Chamonix in France on Friday is pictured above.
Italy
Italy saw some snowfall at the end of the week too, with up to 15cm reported in the northwest, closer to 5cm in the dolomites, but everywhere seeing something. The next few days will be sunnier but remain fairly cold, especially above 2,000m. Many Italian areas will close either on Easter Monday or at the end of the coming week, but a number plan to stay open into May including Cervinia and Passo Tonale. Val di Fassa above,
Switzerland
Swiss ski areas saw a snowy start to the weekend as well, with plenty of fresh snowfall across the country, once again heaviest in the west and on higher slopes Gstaad’s local Glacier 3000 area (pictured above on Saturday) and another glacier at Saas-Fee both reported 7cm accumulations ahead of the weekend, for most other areas with slopes above 2000m it was just an inch or two. About half of the Swiss areas, mostly low-lying compared to the big-name areas, have already closed and here too many more will close after the easter weekend or the end of the coming week. But resorts including Andermatt, Zermatt and St Moritz will have at least some terrain open into May.
Pyrenees
There’s a definite end-of-the-season feel in the Pyrenees with most ski areas due to close after the Easter weekend. Baqueira Beret (pictured above), the largest in Spain, has a 20-60cm base and about a third of its terrain, mostly the highest runs of course, is still open and it’s a similar story at other areas that are still operating. Conditions did improve a little with a fresh snowfall on higher slopes earlier this week.
Scandinavia
The past few days have been predominantly sunny and dry across Scandinavia. It’s been a little warmer than it has been but with long daylight hours now and the snow still in good shape, conditions are generally excellent for the final three or four weeks of the season. Most Scandinavian ski areas are still open, with all lifts and runs accessible and many expect to stay so until the start of May. The coming week looks like a change to more wintery weather is coming with cold and snowy weather forecast. Roldal pictured above and top.
Scotland
There’s very little open for the Easter weekend in Scotland unfortunately. The Lecht and Glenshee had both hoped to make snow with their all-weather machines for some nursery or snow fun slopes but have admitted defeat with temperatures too warm for it to be viable. Glencoe has chairlift access to ski touring terrain while Nevis range has hardly opened this season and is now in full mountain biking mode. So it’s just Cairngorm above Aviemore, with just a couple of runs still open at the time of writing.
Eastern Europe
It’s been a good week for Bulgaria with ski areas reporting up to 50cm of fresh snowfall at the start of the week on their higher slopes and temperatures cooler than they have been. For many, the upcoming Easter weekend is the final one of the season. Further north there’s been snowfall more recently up in the northeast of Europe with the remaining areas still open in Slovakia (including Jasna, above), the Czech Republic and Poland all reporting 5-20cm Good Friday snowfalls on higher slopes so again things are looking good for what’s for most here the final weekend of the season too.
Canada
Still fairly good conditions across Canada, where most ski resorts are still open, at least for Easter weekend. The main issue in the west this weekend is reported to be very strong winds which have raised avalanche danger levels and forced resorts like Whistler to limit the number of lifts open. In the East of the country, there’s been fresh snow in Quebec but also some warm weather so it’s a mixed picture for snow quality in the final few weeks of the season. Some centres including Lake Louise, Sunshine, Whistler and Jasper’s Marmot Basin are open into May.
USA
The exceptional snowfall in the Rockies shows no real sign of ending even as ski areas begin to close for the season. There’s been plenty more fresh snowfall in Colorado and Utah over the last week, with some Utah centres posting over five feet of fresh snow and Alta and Snowbird now both having had more than 800″ (20 metres) of snowfall this winter, both at record levels. But all the snowfall continues to cause practical issues with both closed for several days midweek due to high avalanche danger. Elsewhere the snow remains deep in California and along the West Coast and East Coast resorts have had more fresh snowfall up high, though rain at times on lower runs. Ski areas are now closing across the country but a growing number have also announced season extensions into May.
**** Updated Saturday, 8 April, 2023 ****
It’s April and we’re coming up to Easter so it is no surprise that we’re seeing full springlike conditions across the skiing world. In the Alps, we had very mild temperatures again Midweek after snowfall to start the week, but it’s now got cold and snowy once more, with more significant falls expected over the next few days on higher slopes.
Springtime usually means heavier, wetter snow to higher elevations, however, is the norm and this year is no different in both the Alps and the Rockies. For lower altitude centres it can also mean the natural end of the season and again some of these centres will close this weekend, others after the Easter weekend and around 90% of resorts by the middle of the month.
(Park City, 1 April)
It has kept snowing with more snowfall records being broken in Western North America however and while many centres will still close with the snow lying deep and still falling over the next few weekends, ever more have extended their seasons to later this month, into May or later in the spring and some even into summer.
Austria
The warm weather that has been plaguing Austrian ski areas for much of March was finally banished at the start of this week when cold weather arrived at last, temperatures getting down to freezing right down to valley floors and there was plenty of fresh snow to low elevations too. St Anton posted pictures of snow lying quite thick on resort streets while higher altitude slopes up on the country’s glaciers posted 30-60cm (1-2 feet) of snowfall on higher slopes. This is all good news for the Easter fortnight, which will also see many of the country’s ski areas closing this weekend or next. Centres with higher runs like Ischgl and St Anton will then come into their own for the rest of April, along with the Austrian glacier resorts.
France
Some great snowfalls for French ski areas this week, the heaviest on Sunday-Monday when temperatures also dropped down to freezing right down to low valley floors. The base at Tignes, the deepest in Europe, has passed 4.5 metres, and Les Arcs has posted a metre increase in its upper slope base depth in just over a week. It’s one of a number posting 3m+ upper slope base depths and so looking good for the final weeks of the season. After the midwinter conditions to start the week temperatures did rise and the low-lying areas that have been suffering all season just got a brief respite, but it is now cooler and snowier again with more big snowfall totals forecast for the coming weekend. Val d’Isere pictured on Saturday April 1 top.
Italy
There’s heavy snowfall in Italy to start April, at least on the country’s higher slopes and in the west of the country. Cervinia posted pictures of a full-on snowstorm on Saturday morning and La Thuile and Courmayeur both posted 25cm of fresh snow at the same time. Lower Italian areas have seen rain in recent days and have begun closing but it is cold and snowy up high where most of the big destinations resorts offer their skiing so it’s looking good for easter for many.
Switzerland
Swiss ski areas are seeing some big snowfalls on their higher slopes. Saas Fee posted 70cm in 24 hours up high at the start of the weekend, Crans Montana got 35cm. It was a similar story across the country with temperatures dipping wat back down below freezing and more snow forecast through the weekend and temperatures expected to remain low next week.
Pyrenees
There was some snowfall at the weekend to end the weeks of fairly non-stop warm sunny weather, but it wasn’t really enough to stop the relentless thaw and end-of-season feeling. The region’s largest area Grandvalira (Pas de la Casa, Soldeu -El Tarter) reports less than half of its terrain is now open for Easter and many smaller areas have closed for the 22-23 season. Piau engaly in France says conditions are still good up high (pictured)
Scandinavia
Things are finally turning more springlike in Scandinavia with temperatures climbing to +5 or so at some resorts in the region, although overnight lows on higher slopes are still getting down to -10 to -20C. Conditions are really the best in Europe for the start of spring with most resorts still fully open and many planning to keep operating into May. Ruka is pictured top.
Scotland
There’s not much open in Scotland for Easter alas. The past week has seen some low temperatures and fresh snowfall but, as has been the case since mid-January, warm periods too which have stopped much improvement in the limited areas available. The most, but still not a lot, is at Cairngorm with Glenshee having a few short runs created with all-weather snowmaking (although this weekend they’re saying just sledging on them). Glencoe has lift access to touring terrain but no in-bounds runs, Nevis range remains closed to skiers and The Lecht says it will use its all-weather snowmaking machine to make snow for an Easter nursery slope.
Eastern Europe
It’s been quite a warm and sunny week in the Balkans after a little snowfall earlier on. The warmth isn’t great news for snow cover down to low elevations and Bansko’s home run is reported closed at present. Further north in Slovakia, there’s been some fresh snowfall reported at Jasna where everything remains open. The forecast for Bulgaria is more promising with temperatures dropping back towards freezing and plenty of snowfall forecast for the new week.
USA
More snowfall records have been passed in the western US over the past week and ever more centres, particularly on the West Coast or in the Rockies, have announced extended ski seasons. Mammoth has the most impressive numbers, passing its previous all-time seasonal snowfall to date earlier this week and reaching 700″ for the first time in a season in its history. It was already posting the deepest base in the world at over 8 metres and has extended its season at least into July. The past week has seen more snowfall across the west with multiple resorts reporting several feet more snow, but it has been getting warmer so the storms have had rain mixed in and even up high the snow is getting heavier to ski, particularly later in the day. More resorts have begun closing for the season too.
Canada
Another generally good week across Canada with snow showers reported at ski areas on both the east and west sides of the country. Tremblant in Quebec, the largest in the East, says the 6.6 metres (22 feet) of snowfall it has had this season is the most it has ever recorded and it has extended its season by a week to April 23rd as a result. Most ski areas in Alberta and BC in the west are fully open although this is the time of year when most go from fully open to closing weekend over the next few weekends. Banff, Jasper and Whistler ski areas are staying open into May though.
**** Updated Saturday, 25 March, 2023 ****
It’s been a largely dry, sunny and once again warm week in the Alps. We are coming up to April and the Easter holidays of course, so it feels less unusual than it did earlier in the season. The warmth means that snow cover has been melting fast below about 1800 metres altitude and a growing number of resorts are giving up on trying to keep slopes open down to the valley. Up high though most ski areas are in good shape and as that’s where much of the terrain is for the best known resorts and the added good news is that high slopes are likely to get several feet more snowfall over the next few days.
Elsewhere in Europe conditions are good in Scandinavia and not bad at all in much of eastern Europe, but unfortunately almost all slopes are closed in Scotland now and there’s a battle for all but the biggest centres to remain open in the Pyrenees as the warm temperatures take their toll.
Austria
Austrian ski areas have seen warm weather this week, impacting snow cover on lower slopes. We are though into the final fortnight of the season for many of the country’s lower lying resorts. The country will see cooler temperatures and snowfall over the next few days, but lower centres may see rain and higher perhaps not so much new snow as further west. But higher resorts, famous for their spring skiing, like Obertauern, Obergurgl and St Anton still have great conditions up high. The country’s glacier resorts are also starting to come into their own, with Solden posting the country’s deepest base.
France
There’s a higher/lower slopes divide in France with things looking increasingly patchy below around 1800-2000 metres, but pretty god at higher elevations, which had some light fresh snowfall earlier in the week and after a few sunny days are now being dumped on with up to a metre more snowfall expected above 3000m by Monday/Tuesday. That will fall as rain some of the time on those lower slopes though, speeding the thaw. Up high though France is posting the deepest bases in the Alps and luckily most of the big ski regions like the 3 Valleys have most of their terrain up above 1800m. Tignes pictured above.
Italy
The snowfall is arriving in Italy too, with western areas like the Aosta Valley expected to see the most over the next few days, then the snowfall continuing east and arriving in the Dolomites on Sunday/Monday. As with other countries in the region, the snowfall is expected to be heaviest in the west and on higher ground, with rain possible in valleys. La Thuile, linked over the French border to La Rosière is currently posting the deepest base in Italy at 2.6m and it seems that might get above 3 metres up high this weekend. It also reports more than 90% of its terrain still open.
Switzerland
Swiss centres have had the same warm week as the rest of the Alps and the lack of snow down to resort level in valleys is getting ever more pronounced – well we are at the end of March. But there’s snow starting to fall across the country through the weekend, expected to be heaviest in the west at resorts ,like Verbier, which may see the best part of a metre of fresh up on its glacier by early next week. However the downside is probably rain on any remaining snow lying below about 1600m. Most of the well-known Swiss resorts still have 70-90% of their slopes open and conditions above 2000m in particular remain good. Andermatt above.
Pyrenees
It’s been mostly sunny in the Pyrenees which has impacted what terrain remains open increasing severely. A growing number of the less well known smaller areas have called it a day on their 22-23 ski seasons while the amount of terrain open at the better known, bigger, higher areas is typically down to 50-60% with bases at 20-60cm. The biggest, Andorra’s Grandvalira which includes Pas de la Casa, Soldeu and others, still reports 130 of its 210km of slopes open but describes the snow quality as ‘slush’. Spain’s Masella which reports its still 100% open is pictured above.