A new train sleeper train route to the Austrian Tirol means more options to get on track for snow. Here’s the pick of some of the best resorts in the Alps by train from our expert friends at Snowcarbon.
Nearly 20 years ago I first realised there might be another way to travel to ski resorts – other than spending hours shuffling through early-morning airport queues and being cooped up on long traffic-choked transfers. On one such journey, near the resort of Sauze d’Oulx, I was slumped against the transfer-coach window, bleary eyed (and probably dribbling). As we neared the resort I noticed that in the valley below something metallic was twinkling in the afternoon sunshine: a railway track.
It turned out that just 15 minutes from the resort was a train station, Oulx. After some research I discovered that the station was only two trains away from London: a Eurostar to Paris and then a high-speed TGV – a journey that door-to-door journey is nearly as fast as flying. Since then, I’ve travelled with friends by train to ski resorts all over Europe by train – and the journey actually feels like part of the holiday.
This winter, there’s good news and bad news for skiers that want to travel by train. Eurostar won’t run its via-Lyon service this winter, which was a useful route to lots of French resorts and especially useful for families on peak dates such as February half term and Easter when the Eurostar Ski Train sells out.
On the positive, a new overnight train route to the Tirol region of the Austrian Alps. You travel out by Eurostar to Brussels, change onto a fast ICE train, and in Cologne you board one of the new NightJet sleeper trains. It’s not the quickest journey, but each stage is on quality trains – and you wake up only minutes from the slopes some great resorts.
Soll, Austria
You can travel overnight from London to Soll in the Austrian Tirol, arriving in the morning to start carving the slopes of the huge SkiWelt ski area. There are 284km of ski runs, 90 modern cable cars and lifts, 77 rustic Alpine huts and après ski bars here, and the Wilder Kaiser mountain range are stunning. The Gipfelalm Hohe Salve restaurant is a particularly good viewing point, not least because it has terrace that rotates through 360 degrees while you have lunch. When evening comes, there is night skiing as well as floodlit Hexenritt and Mond toboggan runs. The compact village has plenty of bars and buzz, too.
Example rail journey:
Depart London St Pancras on the 15:04 Eurostar to Brussels, arriving 18:05; take the 18:25 ICE from Brussels to Cologne, arriving 20:15; then take the 21:21 NightJet sleeper train to Wörgl, arriving 08:36; from there it’s about 20 minutes by bus or taxi.
Les Arcs, France
One of the easiest resorts to reach by train – due to its funicular link from the station of Bourg St Maurice – is Les Arcs. The slopes here are part of the vast 425km Paradiski area, catering well for a variety of levels. There are exhilarating descents to be explored, such as the descent from the 3,200m Aiguille Rouge down to Villaroger at 1,200m. The resort offers couples or groups the chance to spend a night in an Igloo, with torchlit walks, fondue served in a dining room carved out of ice and soft fur-covered beds. There are toboggan runs in Arc 2000’s Rodéo Park and at Arc 1800’s Mille8, where a 900m descent passes through the forest, with sound and light effects. You can also have breakfast with the ski patrollers at dawn before making first tracks on the freshly groomed runs.
Example rail journey:
Depart London St Pancras on the 09:45 Eurostar Ski Train to Bourg St Maurice, arriving at 18:58; from there it’s seven minutes by funicular railway to Arc 1600, with bus connections to the other villages; you can also travel by bus or taxi (35 – 45 minutes) from Bourg St Maurice to all the villages.
Avoriaz, France
Created 50 years ago, the village perches dramatically at 1800 metres, and is completely car free and ski-in/ski-out, with horse drawn sleighs whisking skiers and luggage to their apartments. The resort is located at the heart of the 650km Portes du Soleil, given epic ski possibilities in all directions. Children in particular will love the Aquariaz tropical pool and spa, and every evening sledging in the heart of the village is a popular activity. In the evenings the village has plenty of ambience, with streets lines with bars and restaurants. If you feel like aiming some snow at your mates, you can try organised Japanese-style ‘Yukigassen’ snowball fights, arranged by the Tourist Office.
Example rail journey:
Depart from London St Pancras to Paris Gare du Nord by Eurostar at 07:55 to Paris-Nord and then take the 12:11 TGV from Paris Gare de Lyon, changing at Bellegarde to arriving at Cluses at 16:35; from there it’s 50 minutes by bus or taxi.
Sauze d’Oulx, Italy
Just 15 minutes from Oulx station, on the TGV line from Paris, Sauze d’Oulx sits just over the French border and is part of the 400km Milky Way ski area. Intermediates in particular will be in their element here, and when the snow falls there are some inviting powder fields between the trees. The wooded runs never feel busy – and there are some cracking mountain restaurants dotting the slopes, such as Ciao Pais and Capanna Kind at Sportina. Back down in the village the atmosphere is jovial and welcoming and the old centre, with narrow, cobbles streets is a pleasure to stroll around in. For dinner, L’Ortiche, in the square does a sumptuous lamb shank, and Del Falco in the old town does a wicked Tiramisu.
Example rail journey:
Depart London St Pancras on the 09:22 Eurostar to Paris-Nord, change station by taxi and take the 14:41 TGV from Paris-Lyon to Oulx, arriving at 19:23. From there it’s 15 minutes by bus or taxi.
Val Thorens, France
Perched at an altitude of 2,300m, the compact resort of Val Thorens is one of the most snowsure in the Alps. Yet the resort doesn’t rest on its laurels, constantly innovating. Having discovered that “80% of skiers go on just 20% of the ski runs,” the resort has developed a Skiflux system, which displays how many people are using which ski runs in real-time via giant screens, to help skiers find the most suitable and quietest pistes. Meanwhile, this winter the resort is also launching itself as the ‘Anti-Stress Capital’ by introducing a weekly chill-out programme that includes morning yoga, scenic summit rides, a new wellbeing tearoom, and concerts featuring classical, jazz and world music.
Example rail journey:
Depart London St Pancras on the 09:45 Eurostar Ski Train, arriving at Moutiers at 18:15. From there it’s 55 minutes by bus or taxi.
Les Contamines, France
Somehow Les Contamines has managed to stay below the radar of most skiers, and this is odd. It isn’t the skiing: there are 120km of pistes here, and the Evasion Mont Blanc ski pass also gives you access to neighbouring St Gervais and Megeve. It certainly isn’t the scenery: one side of the mountain you ski facing an unrivalled view of Mont Blanc, with undulating blue, red and black runs to choose between; on the other, the slopes twist down towards Haute Luce – a spectacular vista. The village doesn’t have much in terms of nightlife, so if you want to party then this probably isn’t the place for you. However, the atmosphere is relaxed and very friendly, and the restaurant owners will greet you like an old friend before serving you up hearty Savoyard dishes.
Example journey:
Depart from London St Pancras to Paris Gare du Nord by Eurostar at 07:55 to Paris-Nord and then take the 12:11 TGV from Paris Gare de Lyon, changing at Bellegarde to arriving at St Gervais at 16:56; from there it’s 15 minutes by bus or taxi.
St Anton, Austria
The journey by train from the UK to St Anton can take you past the vast Lake Zurich and Lake Wallensee and then plunge you through the spectacular Arlberg Valley. Arriving at St Anton you won’t be disappointed either. The resort is home to some incredible skiing, with the new Arlberg gondola to Zurs and Lech creating a linked area of 305km – the largest in Austria. There’s a great sense of humour and charm about the place too. For example, at the restaurant of the Hospitz Alm in St Christophe you don’t need to take the stairs down to go to visit the toilets: instead, you use the wooden chute to slide down on your back, saving clanking in ski boots. Back in the village, the fascinating Museum of Skiing will show you how the sport has developed – and has a great restaurant too.
Example rail journey:
Depart London St Pancras on the 18:01 Eurostar to Paris-Nord. Stopover in Paris and take the 07:23 TGV from Paris-Lyon, changing in Zurich to the 12:40 RailJet arriving at St Anton at 15:03.
Montgenevre, France
For families in particular, Montgenevre is a peach of a resort. The almost traffic-free village looks on to an enormous beginner area, with gentle slopes fan out in all directions and a ‘Front de neige’ array of cafes and restaurants that overlook them. There aren’t many queues here either, so you can be linking pistes without hanging about. The resort is part of the 400km Milky Way ski area, linked with Claviere, Sestriere and Sauze. Advanced skiers here will enjoy the amount of easily accessible off-piste terrain. There’s a huge swim and spa complex, The Durancia, to dip into after the slopes. In the evenings, try cosy bar La Tourmente, which has cocktails and live music.
Example rail journey:
Depart London St Pancras on the 09:31 Eurostar, change in Paris and take the 14:41 TGV train, arriving Oulx station at 19:21. From there it is a 25-minute taxi or bus ride.
La Rosiere, France
Located near the Italian border at the end of the Tarentaise valley, La Rosière is a resort with a friendly vibe and a loyal following. The slopes form part of the 160km Espace San Bernardo, which links it to La Thuile in Italy by lifts and piste. It’s a great resort for beginners, with a gentle network of blue runs near the village and the ESF now offers beginner snowboarding lessons for children aged four to seven. There is also plenty for intermediates to sink their skis into, with La Thuile in Italy a target for a cappuccino coffee stop or an indulgent lunch. As well as the skiing, you can try snowkiting, ice-skating and Paret – old-style wooden sledging. This winter a new Hyatt Centric hotel opens, as well as stylish apartment-residence Chalet Grivola.
Example rail journey:
Depart London St Pancras on the 09:45 Eurostar Ski Train to Bourg St Maurice, arriving at 18:58; from there it’s 45 minutes by taxi.
Zwei ICE T Baureihe 411 in winterlicher Umgebung
Alpbach, Austria,
This Tyrolean village is one of the most beautiful in the Alps: the streets are lined with old wooden chalets, making you feel almost as if you are walking through a period drama. The gondola linking Alpbach with the Wildschönau valley, built a few years ago, has created the ‘Ski Juwel’ area, incorporating the resorts of Reith, Oberau and Niederau – encompassing 145km of terrain. The lifts are fast lifts and the queues rare. If your legs get tired here there is no shortage of welcoming mountain huts to sample the local cuisine such as the Gipfohit on top of the Schatzberg, from where you have a panoramic view over a range of snowy peaks.. For families with young children, the beginner slopes in the centre of the village makes things uber convenient.
Example rail journey:
Depart London St Pancras on the 15:04 Eurostar to Brussels; take the 18:25 ICE from Brussels to Cologne; then take the 21:21 NightJet sleeper train to Jenbach, arriving 08:53; from there it’s about 20 minutes by bus or taxi.
La Clusaz and Le Grand Bornand, France
Just up the road from Lake Annecy, La Clusaz and Le Grand Bornand are two ski resorts linked by the same Aravis ski pass. La Clusaz’s own skiing is surprisingly varied, encompasing wooded blue runs in the Manigod and Beauregard sectors and challenging reds at the Massif de Balme. Le Grand Bornand also has superb blue and red runs – and accessible off piste that you can dip in and out of between the pistes. La Clusaz’ village is built around the 18th-century church, the Eglise Sainte-Foy. The village has a buzz, some good bars and Discothèque L’Ecluse with its unique glass dancefloor that looks down onto a river! Le Grand Bornand is quieter and more family focussed, with rustic chalet buildings lining the streets. Cheese lovers will be in their element here: the resort is the birthplace of Reblochon.
Example rail journey:
Depart St Pancras on the 07:55 Eurostar to Paris-Nord; then take 12:45 TGV from Paris-Lyon to Annecy, arriving at 16:30. From there it’s 35 minutes by bus or taxi to either village.
Serre Chevalier, France
In the French Southern Alps, Serre Chevalier Vallee, has 250km of slopes shared between four villages. About 80% of the ski terrain is located above 2,000 metres, making it a snow-sure bet for early and late season and many of the higher-altitude runs are tree-lined – hugely advantageous in cloudy weather. The resort has created MélèZone, a freestyle area deep in the Chantemerle larch forest, a natural snow-covered trail has modules made of both wood and
snow. As well as the excellent slopes, the resort offers a feast of other activities. You can try ‘winter paintball’ in the woods, using biodegradable, environmentally friendly paint pellets; there’s ice climbing in La Schappe and the resort is home to the first ice-karting circuit in the Hautes Alpes. In the evenings, you can try, excursions by piste basher to have dinner in restaurants on the mountain.
Example rail journey:
Depart London St Pancras on the 16:22 Eurostar to Paris-Nord; then take the 22:56 sleeper train from Paris-Austerlitz to Briancon, arriving at 08:30. From there it’s 15-20 minutes by bus or taxi to the other villages.
Rail travel booking and information:
Voyages SNCF: (0844 848 5 848)
Ffestiniog Travel (01766 772 030)
The new European Rail Map (£10.99 + p&p)
More information about rail travel to ski resorts can be found at independent guide, Snowcarbon
(All images supplied by resorts featured, rail companies featured or other rail images copyright Daniel Elkan)
