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Setting off on snowshoes for an early-evening trek in the Dolomites, there was no chance I was about to deliver a display of poetry in motion. I had not long since wearily removed my ski boots after hours of exploring the vast slopes around magnificent Madonna di Campiglio, so the prospect of getting back on the mountain was not particularly appealing. My freezing fingers felt like they were about to drop off as our group embarked on a trek from Patascoss, but I quickly warmed to the task. Two guides navigated us on tracks in the tranquility of the forest – with arms pumping and shoes gliding. The squeaking of the snow underfoot and chatter of hikers were the only sounds that could be heard in the stunning Adamello-Brenta Park. But there was one thing missing on a trek known as ‘Al Chiaro di Luna’ – in the moonlight. The ‘snow moon’ that was due to light up the slopes and show us the way was hidden by thick snow-filled clouds, which delivered heavy dumps of the white stuff that were so very welcome in Trentino’s largest ski area. I was still able to savour a magical atmosphere in an unspoilt area that is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with a headlamp ensuring I was never going to be in the dark. After mustering some extra energy to tackle a sharp ascent through deep off-track snow, we gathered around to hear some poetry while no longer in motion. Local actress Liuba Maestrani turned on her headlamp before lighting up the slopes by reciting ‘Neve’, written by Umberto Saba, and Gianni Rodari’s ‘Sulla Luna’ (On the Moon). While I was unable to understand what Liuba was saying, the beautiful manner in which she delivered the softly-spoken words in such a blissful setting ensured my lack of Italian vocabulary mattered not. Liuba then looked skywards and stated in English that it must not be a general, a banker or a minister who lands on the moon. Reciting Rodari’s piece, she said: “It must be a poet landing on the moon: with his head in the clouds, he’s been there for a while… “Accustomed to dreaming the most beautiful dreams: he knows how to hope for the impossible even when in despair. Now that dreams and hopes come true on the moon and on earth, make way for dreamers!” For the time being I was merely hoping to get my cold hands on a hot drink after that heartwarming poetry performance. And sure enough, my eyes were soon lighting up when I was handed a gluhwein before being served a bowl of goulash soup at the lovely Malgo Ritort restaurant. I had become accustomed to warmth during my stay at the five-star Alpen Suite Hotel: whether that be from sitting in front of a roaring fire, unwinding in the jacuzzi and steam room or from the friendly staff. There are three Michelin star restaurants in Madonna di Campiglio and I experienced the very best of fine dining at the classy Il Gallo Cedrone – sampling succulent dishes such as beef risotto and a trio of veal on a treat of a tasting menu. Lunch at the new Attic Restaurant high on the mountain in Pinzolo provided further culinary delights – which a former Italian Prime Minister was also savouring on the next table. He was spotted by jovial skiing guide Stefano Ferrari, who had me heading through the starting gates and hurtling down the iconic Madonna di Campiglio World Cup run. Stefano stopped to show me where he witnessed sparks flying from Marcel Hirscher’s skis as the legendary Austrian flashed past while going for night slalom glory. The 70th edition of that famous race – the oldest World Cup competition in Italy – was staged last December, when 15,000 spectators witnessed a victory for Austrian Marco Schwarz. With over 155km of groomed pistes in the Madonna di Campiglio, Folgarida Marilleva and Pinzola area, skiers of all abilities are spoilt for choice. We hit the highest point of Passo Groste at 2442m above sea level, while Stefano also took us to Monte Spinale, Pradalago and Pinzolo – where a new lift system features underground departure and arrival stations. Stefano spoke with passion and pride about the beauty the “powerful old Dolomites” as we got the adrenaline pumping in spectacular surroundings. I headed home determined to ensure it will not be once in a blue moon that I am able to gaze in awe at the grandeur at the jaw-dropping mountain range in a skiing paradise. FACTBOX Accommodation: Pete Thompson stayed at the five-star Alpen Suite Hotel with comfortable rooms and suites, a restaurant and spa. Visit alpensuitehotel.it Flights: *There are regular flights direct flights from the UK to Bolzano from London Gatwick with SkyAlps. Ski pass: Dynamic prices, depending on the time of season with online tickets offering the best value, plus the new Star Pass card, which replaces the traditional season ticket and operates as a pay-for-what-you-ski card. Traditional ski passes cost from €72 for a low-season day pass to €389 euros for a six-day adult pass in high season. Visit campigliodolomiti.it/en/skiarea/inverno/skipass/skipass-skiarea Snow shoeing tours: Can be booked through the local tourist office. The Snowmoon tour costs €40 euros, takes 2-3 hours and includes food and drink, visit campigliodolomiti.it/en/events/snowmoon-1 For more information visit:campigliodolomiti.it/en Main Image @campigliodolomiti - Chiacchio Angelo *SkyAlps no longer flies their London-Bolzano route from Stansted. Since April 2024, they have been operating from London Gatwick. Furthermore, they are due to launch a new route for the winter season, which will fly from Gatwick thrice weekly (an addition to their current twice-weekly schedule). This will commence 18 December 2024. InTheSnow Resort Guide

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