I didn’t realise how quickly a place could quiet the mind until I arrived at Naturhotel Forsthofgut, a remarkable family-run hotel in the Austrian village of Leogang. In just a few decades this has grown from a small family farm with guest house to a luxury five-star resort development, with an incredible forest-themed spa, remarkable restaurant options, exceptional facilities for families (and even their ponies) and all with a piste running direct to the doorstep for a ski-in/ski-out experience that connects the Forsthofgut to one of Austria’s largest ski regions around neighbouring Saalbach-Hinterglemm and linked to Zell am See-Kaprun.
The journey from Salzburg was almost disarmingly easy, a comfortable train ride, free of charge to those staying overnight in the SalzburgLand region accommodation with the Guest Mobility Ticket. By the time I reached Leogang, the peaks were glowing in late‑afternoon light, and the hotel appeared like something out of a modern Alpine fairytale: wood, glass, and soft lines blending into meadows and forest.
From the moment I stepped inside, I felt the shift. The air seemed calmer. The design, all natural textures, warm tones and subtle luxury, felt like a deep breath. And the welcome was the kind that makes you feel as though you’ve arrived somewhere that genuinely cares about how you’re going to spend your days.
There’s something magical about the way Forsthofgut blends nature with wellness. You’re never far from a window, a view, a quiet corner.
I stayed in one of the Garden Suites, and it became my sanctuary. The incredible 120sqm two-storey suite, complete with private sauna on the balcony, was so vast I sometimes lost track of my partner. There were wonderful mountain views on all sides, with the onsen bath on one side, the ski piste on the other and the mountains above framing every view like a painting. Inside, everything was crafted to soothe: soft fabrics, pale woods, a vast bed that felt like a cloud, and a bathroom that made even brushing your teeth feel indulgent. It was the kind of space where you wake up slowly, stretch, and feel grateful just for being there.
I think the waldSPA is where I truly fell in love with the hotel. It’s enormous, a whole world dedicated to wellbeing but it never feels overwhelming. Instead, it feels like wandering through a forest of calm.
I lost track of time drifting between saunas, heated pools, relaxation rooms and the stunning Lake House, where waterbeds and soft lighting make time feel irrelevant. The onsen ritual was unforgettable: a slow, meditative journey through heat and cold, ending in a steaming 42°C pool overlooking the natural lake.
We did not have children with us but saw incredible facilities including more amazing spa and adventure pool facilities, this time especially for families – and a very high spec 24-hour playroom just for starters.
The incredible food at Forsthofgut is an experience in itself and a big part of the stay there. Every menu is carefully thought through and beautifully presented, usually rooted in the region. Indeed the nightly set menu options were divided into three columns, one of them dishes that had all been sourced locally, another the healthy vegan choices. You could mix and match each of the five courses between the three columns of options.
That was just for those on a fixed package. The hotel’s culinary offering is wonderfully varied with multiple restaurants, tasting menus, and a focus on local, seasonal ingredients. I loved the balance: dishes that felt indulgent, and others that felt clean, healthy and restorative. Unlike feeling restricted as you often do, those set menus were a highlight, especially the nature‑inspired courses that showcased vegetables, herbs and Alpine flavours with real creativity. It’s the kind of place where you look forward to dinner all day.
There were also several a la carte dining options, including silva for the highest standards of haute cuisine where every dish is inspired by the forest, or Mizumi should your heart desire sushi or another Japanese speciality. This winter, Restaurant 1617 opens in a new piste-side location to offer traditional Alpine cuisine and its space in the hotel becomes ‘Grill’ – a 20-seat restaurant serving the finest cuts of meat and fish to perfection.
One of the joys of staying here is how effortlessly skiing folds into your day. The piste runs right past the hotel, and the Asitz gondola is just a short glide away. I loved the simplicity of it: wake up, enjoy a slow breakfast, step outside, and you’re already in the Saalbach Hinterglemm Leogang Fieberbrunn ski area, one of the biggest in Austria.
The on‑site rental shop made everything even easier. No queues, no fuss, just perfectly fitted gear and straight onto the slopes. And after a day of skiing, returning to Forsthofgut felt like slipping into a warm, familiar embrace.
One of the most unexpected and charming aspects of Forsthofgut is its equestrian facilities. The hotel has its own spectacularly good stables, riding hall and paddocks and even offers the option to stable your own horse during your stay.
Watching horses exercise against the backdrop of the Leogang mountains added a layer of serenity to the whole experience. It’s rare to find a luxury hotel where riders are so thoughtfully catered for, and it gives the property a unique, almost pastoral charm.
When my stay came to an end, I felt that familiar tug, the one you get when you’ve found a place that resonates and aren’t looking forward to returning to the real world. Forsthofgut isn’t just a luxury hotel; it’s a feeling. A rhythm. A way of being that makes you slow down, breathe deeper, and appreciate the beauty around you.
I was cushioned for 48 hours from a full return to reality though by a few days in the magical city of Salzburg before getting on the plane home. I got a Salzburg Card, an all-inclusive sightseeing pass that offers visitors free admission to many of Salzburg’s most popular attractions, including museums, historic landmarks, and cultural sites. It also provides unlimited use of the city’s public transportation system, making it easy to explore the city efficiently.
Fact Box
Forsthofgut: www.forsthofgut.at/en Email: [email protected] +43 6583 8561
Region information: www.saalfelden-leogang.com
Prices: Doubles from Euros 375 per person per night based on 2 adults sharing for 7 nights or more (shorter stays of 3-6 nights from Euros 395 or from Euros 405 per one or two night stays also available); children are charged discounted rates per night on a sliding scale.
NB: All prices quoted include ¾-board meals (breakfast dinner and a substantial afternoon snack/tea), daily child-care for children from two-14 years (9 am to 9 pm/365 days a year), optional weekly activities itinerary – one for adults/one for kids – ranging from guided ski tours, snowshoeing or yoga sessions to deer feeding. Guests also benefit from access to the hotel’s private toboggan run, wide-ranging facilities including adults-only and family spas, riding stables and ski equipment hire shop. Prices are subject to availability and visitor tax. Full price details are here.