Pinballing across the firm, wind-packed traverse towards the mouth of a narrow couloir, I get that familiar, slightly unreal sensation, the one you imagine feeling when edging out onto the arête of the Aiguille du Midi. There’s air on one side, a sense of commitment, and the realisation that you’re properly in it now.
But this isn’t Chamonix. It’s the Grand Couloir in Courchevel, a fully marked black run accessed from the Saulire cable car, and after a handful of tight, mogulled turns, the line opens out into a broad, chalky descent. It’s steep, serious and exposed, and I’m wondering how it ever ended up on a piste map.
I’m skiing with Timy Théaux, a long-time local, a freerider and now something of an ambassador for Les 3 Vallées, who works for Salomon and ESF in the winter. Rather than ticking off famous runs, his aim is to show me the quieter seams that stitch the domain together; the reds and blacks people skip, the drag lifts no one queues for, and the natural snow zones that exist simply because most skiers are being funnelled elsewhere.
As my confidence builds (and his about me), Timy plans each day on the fly, reading the snow, watching the light, sensing where the crowds are heading, and steering us away from them. Over three days, he shows us that even in one of the world’s busiest ski areas, it’s possible to find space, character and proper adventure. We rarely ski the same run twice, and instead of lapping pistes, the days become journeys, moving between valleys, villages and terrain, feeling closer to exploration than resort skiing.
Brides-les-Bains to Méribel
Day one gets us off on the right foot. I start in Brides-les-Bains, and just a five-minute walk takes me to the Olympe gondola, a quiet but efficient way into Les 3 Vallées. The lift breaks the journey into three stages, taking us from the valley to Méribel in about 30 minutes. No need to drive or catch a bus – just a hassle-free ride from the spa town up to the snow.
After the third stage, we step out onto the slopes. The weather’s mild for January, visibility’s clear. And the big plus is we’ve avoided the morning crowds.
We start on Jellinot, a wide, red run with good snow and plenty of space. After that, we catch the Legends chair and connect to some groomed runs in the Omar area. Even though we’re in Méribel, we steer clear of the busiest spots, and the skiing feels much more relaxed than expected, with long runs that let me get into a rhythm.
Later in the morning, we head up to Méribel-Mottaret on the Plattières lift, then on to the new Côte Brune gondola that connects Méribel-Mottaret with Les Menuires and Val Thorens. And as we reach the top, Mont Vallon stands out on the horizon, offering wide views over the upper valleys.
In the afternoon, we head west towards Courchevel, making our way up to Col de la Loze at 2,305 meters. The north-facing slopes here keep their snow well, even late in the day, and from the ridge you can see right down to La Tania. Timy tells us the men’s World Cup downhill is being held here in March, finishing at La Praz, and he reckons the course is as steep and technical as Kitzbühel.
We end the day with a final ride on the Saulire cable car up to 2,700 meters, then ski the Grand Couloir. This run requires a lot more concentration than style, and by the time we reach the bottom, both my legs and mind are knackered.
Méribel to the Belleville valley
On day two, we focus more on getting around the domain rather than just gaining altitude. We start in Méribel, taking the Legends and Olympic chairlifts and making a beeline for the Belleville valley. First up is The Face, a notorious black run, but somehow the snow is good today, and it’s surprisingly quiet. Early on, we head to the side-piste and cross the ridgelines that connect Méribel to Belleville; the open space and views over three valleys from up there are just incredible, you almost want to stop and take it all in.
A highlight of the day is Verdet, a run that’s usually closed and easy to miss. You get there from the Méribel lifts, and we end up straight on the Saint-Martin-de-Belleville side – a good example of just how easily you can shift between valleys here, often without seeing another person.
Next up, we’re off to Les Menuires, taking the connecting lifts rather than repeating the same run over and over. The Masse lift takes us deep into the Belleville valley, and the atmosphere changes once more. At the top, there’s a viewing spot and a rather quirky Lego model of the lift system, a fun way to show just how big and complex the area is.
Depending on the snow, the afternoon can go in a few different directions. The east-facing off-piste has got a bit too much sun for our liking, so Timy takes us along a ridge instead of heading straight down. We pass a wooden ibex carving representing Les Menuires, then move into unmarked terrain called Les Yvoses. What’s left of the snow is mixed and wind-formed, but after weeks without any new snow, off-piste skiing is just about the only thing that feels right. We pass through some natural features and end up near the Bettex lift.
Later in the day, the light turns golden. We head back to Saint-Martin-de-Belleville on Jérusalem, a very easy blue run that looks even better in the afternoon. From here, we ski straight into our base at M Lodge, kick off our boots and head for the spa.
Belleville to Val Thorens and Orelle
On day three, Les 3 Vallées suddenly feels less like a huge resort and more like a wild, untamed place. From Saint-Martin, rather than taking a route that sends skiers down to Courchevel or Val Thorens, we head to the Back to the Wild area via the Roc de Tougne drag lift. The first thing that hits you is the peace and quiet, no restaurant, no terrace – just skiing. The slopes are red and black and left ungroomed on purpose. Nearby, an old grooming cabin now serves as a simple picnic spot, with just a couple of benches and sweeping views.
From the Châtelet chair, we watch the crowds heading down towards Courchevel. Timy says that avoiding them isn’t so much about finding secret spots as about knowing how skiers flow.
“Every big resort’s got its main route,” he says. “But if you know your way around, you can build different loops, ski in the sun, use chairlifts instead of gondolas – timing is just as important as geography.”
By lunchtime, we take the Deux Lacs gondola and the Moraine cable car into Val Thorens, then head towards Orelle, often called the fourth valley of Les 3 Vallées. You can tell the difference right away; it’s quieter, north-facing and feels a lot more open.
We start our last off-piste run up from the Peyron chair, high above Orelle. Thick fog covers the valley below, but up top, the sun is shining through. The snow’s crisp but changes from spot to spot, wind-blown in some areas, breakable in others. Instead of just careening down the mountain, we cross high into a bowl and let the slope open up below us. Timy says that before the lifts came along, this whole area was only accessible to ski tourers. You can still feel it in the landscape.
We end up at Cime Caron, where we toast the day in Caron 3200, home to the highest wine bar in Europe. A perfect way to round off a day spent taking the routes less travelled.
After three days of skiing in Les 3 Vallées like this, the simple truth is you don’t need fresh powder or secret hideaways to stay away from the masses. What matters is timing, knowing which lifts to use and being prepared to keep moving, not hanging around the same old favourite runs.
Stick to the fringes, not the main highways. Opt for chairlifts or drag lifts whenever possible; they’re usually less crowded than the gondolas. Don’t just follow the signs; look for where the crowds are thinner.
Even in a massive ski area like Les 3 Vallées, you can end up skiing whole days without touching thesame runs over and over. Then you’ll feel like you’ve really been out there exploring, not just going through the motions.
All images copyright Katy Dartford
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