Saint-Martin-de-Belleville: Authentic Charm in the Heart of Les 3 Vallées

‘The Belleville Valley” isn’t a name a lot of skiers are familiar with, at least not until they give it some thought. It’s one of the three valleys of the much better known ‘Les 3 Valleys’, the one on the right as you like at the map.

But if it weren’t for it being part of the world’s largest ski areas, The Belleville valley would be one of the biggest names in world skiing in its own right. It’s home to three resorts, again each famous in their own right, as well as offering a remarkably different experience to one another, and although it’s one of three valleys, their combined terrain makes up almost half of Les 3 Valleys entire 600km of terrain.

Saint-Martin-de-Belleville is the original mountain village that was never planned as a ski destination but has been increasingly integrated into the 3 Valleys circuit. Above it, Les Menuires is one of the classic French purpose-built resorts of the 1960s, famed for its stark architecture, family-friendly ethos and relatively affordable pricing. Above them both Val Thorens, Europe’s highest resort, once seen as a remote outpost, now also one of Europe’s fastest growing and most successful resorts, thanks in part to its snowsure altitude.

Few, if any ski valleys anywhere in the world, can match that variety nor the level of success of each of these three very different resorts.

Where It all Began

Things have come full circle for Saint-Martin-de-Belleville, the main population centre of the valley from the era before the ski lifts arrived. The idea of those who first envisaged Les Menuires and then Val Thorens in the 1950s was to stop population decline in the Belleville valley by building these ski resorts to create employment for people living in Saint-Martin, not for the village itself ever to become a ski resort.

But such was the success of the Belleville valley ski areas and then, in the early 1970s, the creation of the 3 Valleys, that by 1982 the village was officially part of the network. Property values soared and buyers, many of them from the UK moved in to buy-up and renovate old properties, or in some cases build new, but to the traditional local style.

That’s what keeps Saint-Martin-de-Belleville a unique option in the 3 Valleys today. As a living, breathing alpine community its roots stretch back centuries. Although the ski world has encroached, it has managed to remain a traditional Savoyard village, with many families that can trace their history back to tougher times before tourism, running shops, restaurants, chalets and other businesses in the village. It remains a true year-round community with plenty of excellent facilities that locals can enjoy, along with visitors, and probably wouldn’t be there without the tourist revenue, including a superb new wellness centre.

This is a village that has always done things differently. From its cobbled streets and baroque church to its range of superb dining options right up to Michelin-starred dining, Saint-Martin has long attracted those in search of authenticity.

The architecture is a harmonious blend of stone, wood, and slate, with chalets and farmhouses that feel as though they’ve grown organically from the mountainside. There’s a palpable sense of pride among locals, many of whom have lived here for generations and continue to shape the resort’s evolution.

Skiing Without the Fuss

Saint-Martin’s ski offering is quietly impressive. Upgrades to lifts over recent years now provide quick and easy direct access to the 3 Valleys from the heart of the village. So beyond its local slopes it’s easy to ski from here to Courchevel, Méribel, or Val Thorens in a single day. The lift system is efficient, the pistes are well-maintained, and compared to other parts of the circuit, the crowds are refreshingly sparse.

The local slopes are ideal for intermediate skiers, with long, scenic runs like Biollay and Jerusalem offering gentle descents and panoramic views. For early risers, carving fresh tracks on Pramint is a ritual worth repeating. And for those seeking adventure, off-piste routes through powder-filled forests deliver thrills without the chaos.

A Rich Heritage

One aspect of a stay in Saint-Martin-de-Belleville that really sets it apart from many French ski resorts and underlines its rich heritage is the opportunity top visit the village’s traditional buildings and join in some special experiences to really connect with the local community.
Begin at the excellent village museum, tucked inside a historic farmhouse, and trace the valley’s evolution—from the rise of ski resorts in the 19th century to the enduring authenticity of local life. Across three floors, stories from Belleville’s pioneers and residents reveal customs, trades and transformations and wonderfully brought to life.

Continue your journey outdoors with the 11-stop heritage trail. Map in hand, explore stone-and-wood chalets, the washhouse, cheese dairy, communal oven and the Lachenal hotel—each a testament to mountain resilience and craftsmanship. The peaceful streets echo with history at every turn.

For a deeper experience, join a torchlit guided walk, winding through moonlit alleys beneath the village’s majestic Baroque church. Inside, its ornate altarpiece and vaulted acoustics host concerts ranging from classical to jazz, turning the village’s spiritual heart into a stage for global sound.

Wellness with a View

Proving that the locals keep looking forward whilst taking great pride in their past, Saint-Martin’s latest attraction, La Belle Vie is a state-of-the-art public spa. Built on a natural promontory overlooking the village, the centre blends seamlessly into its surroundings, with architecture that mirrors the traditional style of Saint-Martin while embracing modern sustainability. It’s a beautiful, sleek, dark wood-clad building as you approach, with a bit of a Tardis effect as you enter a large light atrium and find the spacious facilities opening up ahead and below you. Eighty percent of its heating comes from biomass, and the building features reinforced insulation and heat recovery systems that dramatically reduce its carbon footprint.

When you’re there it’s a little hard to take in that this intimate, traditional village has such a world class facility. Inside, the panoramic pool complex includes an indoor/outdoor Nordic pool heated to 33°C, a recreational pool with waterfalls and massage jets, and a 16-metre outdoor pool perfect for summer swims. Floor-to-ceiling windows frame the snow-capped peaks, creating a sense of immersion in nature even as you soak in warmth.

The wellness area is a sanctuary of Alpine rituals. Guests can rotate between a steam room, a Finnish sauna with mountain views, a salt sauna, and an essential oil sauna. For the brave, a cold plunge pool offers invigorating contrast. Treatments range from muscle-relieving massages to hydrating facials, all delivered in a soothing, dimly lit environment designed for deep relaxation.

And it’s not just for adults. La Belle Vie offers aqua classes, family-friendly sessions, and even aquatic activities for children as young as four months. There’s a cosy bar with a panoramic terrace, a multipurpose events space used by the local school, among other groups, and regular wellness festivals—including the Yogiski event each April, which combines yoga, meditation, and mountain serenity.

Food and Fun

Saint-Martin punches well above its weight when it comes to food. The village is home to several restaurants listed in the Michelin Guide, including the legendary La Bouitte, a three-star establishment in nearby Saint-Marcel. Run by a father-and-son duo, La Bouitte is a temple of French gastronomy, where dishes like pan-fried foie gras and Alpine-inspired desserts linger in memory long after the last bite.

For something more rustic, Le Montagnard offers hearty Savoyard fare in a converted hayloft, while La Ferme de La Choumette serves up traditional dishes in a working farm setting—complete with animals to entertain younger diners. On the slopes, La Loy is a favourite for its welcoming atmosphere and generous portions.

Après-ski in Saint-Martin is a relaxed affair. The P Bar, tucked behind the church, is a local favourite, hosting live music and quiz nights in a cosy setting. Slope-side bars offer sunny terraces and a gentle buzz at the end of the ski day, but the vibe remains intimate and friendly.

To sum up, Saint-Martin-de-Belleville is not the highest, the loudest, or the most glamorous in the 3 Valleys—but it is the most genuine. With its new wellness centre the village has added a modern twist to its timeless appeal, not just a place to ski, but a place to feel good whoever you are.

Image top credit: Vincent Lottenberg

 

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