There were absolutely no preparations for the storm, or even an indication anything was in store. The storm had already gone full blast by the time we turned inland, lingering over the area as if it had been waiting for us.
At least the departure from Keflavík Airport by road appears to be a more predictable affair. You leave the airport on a straightforward stretch of tarmac, heading out across open ground, but as you move further inland, the sense of structure begins to fall away and the route becomes less defined, until it is no longer clear that you are following a road at all. Stopping at the waterfall of Gullfoss is the final moment of predictability. From here, there is no fixed route, only the one your driver can hold.
Because the snow was piling up at an extreme pace, combined with wind from all directions, it quickly became difficult to see anything ahead, let alone a clear road. At times, it felt as though we were not travelling along a road at all, but moving across a frozen surface shaped only by instinct, experience and driving ability. There was no hesitation, no wasted movement. You realise quickly that progress depends entirely on the person driving.
Our flight from London, BA894, arrived at 10:45am. A few hours later we reached Highland Base after crossing one of Iceland’s most exposed inland routes. On paper, it is a three to four hour journey. In these conditions, it becomes something else entirely.
Arrival at Highland Base, Kerlingarfjöll
Even when we reached the destination through knee-deep snow, it did not feel entirely real. Low buildings sat against the slope, holding their position as wind and snow moved around them. The surrounding mountains are formed from rhyolite rock, which in clearer conditions shows bands of ochre, rust and green. We did not see them during our stay.
The hotel has a Michelin Key, and it makes sense once you arrive. Not because there is anything excessive about it, but because of how well everything works in a place where conditions are difficult by default.
Inside, the contrast is immediate and effective. You step out of the wind into a space that feels calm without effort, with clean lines, warm materials and a layout that draws you naturally towards the centre. The rooms are particularly well judged, simple but carefully designed, with large windows that keep you connected to the landscape. There is no television, which feels like the right decision. You do not need one here.
Rooms, Food and First Impressions
The first evening passes quietly, with a short introduction, time to unpack, and dinner in the main restaurant, which sits at the centre of the building alongside a bar and lounge above.
The food sets the tone early. Local ingredients are handled with care and presented without unnecessary detail. The cod stands out as the best I have had, clean, well cooked and confident in its simplicity. Lamb appears often, and should in Iceland, and everything feels tied to the place rather than designed for effect.
Service follows the same approach. Attentive, measured and consistent, with staff who understand when to step in and when not to.
Ski Touring and Mountain Guiding
The next morning begins in the same straightforward way, with a well-considered breakfast before attention turns to the activities that shape a stay here. The original plan had been a longer winter expedition into Hveradalir, travelling across open terrain by snowmobile before continuing on foot through geothermal areas where steam rises through the snow.
The storm had other ideas.
Wind remained strong through the night, visibility stayed low so plans changed without fuss. Instead of heading further into the mountains, we stayed close to the hotel for a shorter ski touring session designed as an introduction.
Ruben Perez led the session, and it quickly became clear that his role extended far beyond guiding. His knowledge of the mountain environment shaped the experience, from how he explained movement on skins to how he broke down the landscape around us, pointing out subtle changes in slope, snow conditions and exposure. You are not simply moving through the terrain, you are learning how to understand it.
Conditions kept us close to base, but the session delivered what it needed to. You learn how to climb efficiently, how to manage your pace, and how to think about the terrain rather than react to it. Later, indoors, that learning continued with avalanche training, practical and grounded in real scenarios.
The wider ski programme did not run, and the Highland Base Ski Festival, which had been scheduled during our stay, was cancelled due to the storm. This is part of the experience rather than an exception. Conditions decide everything here.
The Highland Baths in a Storm
What did remain constant was the appeal of the Highland Baths.
Each time you opened the hotel door, you were met with a wall of snow. Wind hit immediately, visibility dropped, and the short distance to the baths felt longer than it should. Hat down, goggles on, and move quickly. Then you are inside, and everything changes.
The baths are set into the hillside and connected through underground passageways, so once you arrive, movement becomes easy. You step into open-air geothermal pools, steam rising into falling snow, the cold air sharp against the heat of the water. The contrast is immediate and consistent.
Evenings, Storytelling and Atmosphere
Later in the day, the programme shifts indoors with storytelling sessions in the lounge, where the history of Kerlingarfjöll is laid out in a way that feels natural rather than staged. Early exploration, seasonal use of the land, the ski school that operated here for decades before closing, and the development of Highland Base itself are all woven into the experience.
Dinner continues in the same steady way each evening. Three courses, a la carte, with a focus on consistency rather than variation. By this point, you begin to understand how the stay holds together.
Why Highland Base Works
What did remain constant was the appeal of the Highland Baths.
This is where Highland Base proves its value. You are not dependent on a single activity to justify being here. The experience holds even when plans change.
Kerlingarfjöll sits on a tectonic boundary shaped by volcanic and geothermal activity, and that energy feels present even when it is not always visible. Steam vents in the distance, subtle changes in the terrain beneath the snow, a landscape that feels active.
You come here for remote terrain and for the chance to spend time somewhere that feels removed from everyday life. In good weather, that version is clear.
Final Thoughts
Do not let the weather put you off. It defines the stay as much as the setting itself, and the combination of isolation, landscape and well-judged comfort stays with you long after you leave.
I would return in summer, to see the mountains in full colour, to walk the same ground without snow, and to understand how different the place feels in another season.
Getting There
British Airways flies from London Heathrow to Keflavík. The leg to Highland Base from there takes three to four hours into the central highlands. In winter, transfers are in a SuperJeep as terrain is snow-covered and paths unmarked.
When to Go
March is winter and ski touring conditions, but is susceptible to weather disruption that’s par for the course. The Highland Base Ski Festival is typically held at this time but conditions can dictate. Summer gives easier access, hiking routes for exploration of the rhyolite mountains and full view.
Rooms
The rooms are minimal, warm and deliberately designed with large windows looking out onto the mountains. There are no televisions, which is appropriate to the environment. Expect comfort without distraction.
Food and Drink
Its restaurant serves contemporary Icelandic fare with local ingredients. Fish and lamb feature heavily. Consistency over multiple nights in quality. Breakfast is thoughtfully buffet-style.
Activities
Winter: ski touring, snowmobiling and guided geothermal hikes (weather permitting). There are introductory ski touring sessions offered near the hotel. Highland Baths are available year-round and are a key part of the stay.
The Highland Baths
Three geothermal pools and a sauna are embedded in the hillside, accessed via underground passageways from the hotel.
Guiding
All activities are led by experienced mountain guides. Lessons cover both technique and safety and there’s heavy emphasis on terrain and conditions.
Who It’s For
Travellers wanting a remote, experience-led stays rather than resort infrastructure. Best for those who are okay with plans changing because of the weather.
More Information
Instagram: @kerlingarfjoll. highlandbase
Main Image © Highland Base