About ten years ago, I attempted the Pass’Portes du Soleil mountain biking festival for the first time. I was on a regular mountain bike, with no prep, no coaching, and no idea what I was doing. No wonder I only completed a small section of it. So when I got the chance to go back this June – this time with a Mondraker e-bike and some proper coaching – I couldn’t say no.
Les Gets is best known as a family-friendly French ski resort in winter, but in summer it’s one of Europe’s top mountain biking destinations. Along with Morzine, it’s part of the massive Portes du Soleil network, home to Europe’s biggest bike park and a paradise for lift-accessed adventure.
The Pass’Portes du Soleil is a three-day summer festival where riders can tackle up to 100km of trails across France and Switzerland, supported by chairlifts, mountain food stops and a buzzing village atmosphere. It’s not a race – it’s more like a scenic MTB tour with a side of cheese, tartiflette and high-altitude views.
Before the main event, I warmed up in the Les Gets Bike Park with a day of coaching with Leo Mathieu from Bike Academy. Just 23, Leo runs his own MTB school and took me through the basics: braking properly, body position through corners, and handling small jumps.
“Everything you give on one side with the bike, you take back on the other side with your body,” Leo explained, as we carved berms on a green trail.
It was exactly what I needed. Like many skiers, I’m comfortable flying downhill – but loose rock, steep fire roads and switchbacks on a bike are a different beast entirely. The e-bike added power, but the skill had to come from me.
The next day, we set off from the Mont Chéry lift in Les Gets for our section of the Pass’Portes route. The weather was perfect – if a bit too hot – and I was glad I’d ditched the full body armour and face helmet. There were blue skies, long-range views of Mont Blanc, and not a cloud in sight.
Thanks to the Bosch-powered Mondraker bikes, I could now actually enjoy climbing – even over roots and rocky sections. We pedalled through open pastures and forested ridgelines before rolling into Lindarets and catching the chairlift up to the high plateau above Avoriaz. From there, we dropped down through the woods on a fast, dusty descent into Morzine – on trails packed with skilled riders.
By the end of the day, we’d covered over 60km and 2,454m of elevation gain. I hadn’t even burned through 70% of my battery, despite dipping into Turbo mode – and I felt energised, not wiped out. That’s the beauty of e-biking: the mountains are accessible. You still get a workout, but you’re not ruined the next day. I even managed a short hike the following morning along one of Les Gets’ scenic trails, which is also part of the official Pass’Portes hiking route.
While e-biking makes the uphill sections far more accessible, Guillaume Heinrich from Bosch eBike Systems, who guided us through the opening stages, was clear that descending still requires skill.
“You can go higher and further than ever before,” he said, “but you still need the technique to get down safely.”
I learned this the hard way on one of the steeper gravel descents. It wasn’t particularly technical, but so steep it felt like dropping into a red ski run. My forearms ached from constant braking, and at one point we had to stop to let the brakes cool down.
“Brakes are like your legs on skis,” Guillaume said. “You can push the bike hard, but you also need to manage your descent.”
Luckily, the festival atmosphere took the edge off. On the first section of our ride, we stopped at a trailside food station near the Roc d’Enfer sector for potato fritters, biscuits and local cheese – and a quick top-up charge for the e-bikes. Then we pedalled on to the Chaux Fleurie plateau, where several lifts converge just above Lac de Montriond. A live band was playing French chansons, mountain bikers were lounging in the sun, and we tucked into tartiflette before taking the Chaux Fleurie chairlift up to the plateau above Avoriaz.
Not every section was smooth sailing. I had to get off and walk a few corners – especially those perched above long drop-offs. But that’s the joy of this kind of event – you can take it at your own pace.
One thing that really stood out was the sense of flow. The route is designed to keep you moving, with well-marked trails, food and repair stops, and lift access to skip the toughest sections. It felt like a ski tour on wheels.
Even when tired, the final descent back to Les Gets was a highlight – fast, flowy, and just technical enough to keep you focused without feeling out of your depth.
Off the trails, Les Gets has plenty to keep you entertained. There’s Alta Lumina – a magical night-time forest walk with lights and sound installations – and a new gourmet flora walk led by local plant expert “The Plant Man.”
The town itself has a relaxed vibe, with over 60 cafés, restaurants and tearooms to refuel in. There’s also a packed summer events calendar, including the UCI Mountain Bike World Cup at the end of August, and the new Planetary Trail, which lets hikers explore a scale model of the solar system with epic Alpine views.
Whether you’re a skier missing the slopes or a first-timer looking for a mountain challenge, Les Gets in summer has something special. The Pass’Portes du Soleil is a brilliant introduction to e-mountain biking: adventurous, scenic, well-supported and fun.
Yes, I finished the day with sore arms and a dusty face – but also a thirst for more. I’ll be back. Next time with a bit more brake control.
All images copyright Katy Dartford.