When we think of skiing in the Pyrenees, if we think of it at all, our first thought is often of Andorra, as that’s where most Brits used to head if they did go to the mountains that form the natural border between France and Spain in south-western Europe. But in fact Andorra is just a small part of what the Pyrenees have to offer, and in recent years Brits have become increasingly aware of the French side of the Pyrenean mountain chain as an alternative to the Alps.
If you take a closer look, you’ll find the French Pyrenees have an awful lot going for them. They’re easy to reach on scheduled services (including by rail) from the UK, and they’re typically warmer, lighter and usually that little bit friendlier and cheaper than many resorts in the Alps, but despite their southern latitude, their proximity to the Mediterranean means abundant snowfall is the norm. The icing on the cake for skiers and boarders is that the resorts here have also invested in some fast modern chairs and gondola uplift, so for most skiers, the area not only ticks all the boxes for a good ski holiday, it also makes a pleasant change.
Although most of the areas are “mid-sized” compared to the French Alps, without the giant ski regions with hundreds of kilometres of piste, there’s plenty to keep you entertained at each of the larger areas for a few days or even a week, or you can visit a few within a week if you prefer. There is even a major off-piste ski area, the Pic Du Midi, which is firmly positioned on the bucket list of all serious freeride skiers and boarders.
Credit – Peyragudes
But when I visited at the end of last season, I was on a more relaxed family holiday. As I arrived, I was struck by the contrast and blend of the traditional French alongside the Spanish influence, as well as the relaxed Mediterranean vibe, which gave the area a laid-back feel.
I was also surprised by the spectacular scenery of the French Pyrenees, which I found more dramatic and “Alp-like” than when I had visited Andorra.
As I say, there are more good ski areas in the French Pyrenees than you might realise, with at least ten good-sized resorts to choose from, each with their own unique attractions. We visited two of them: Saint Lary and Peyragudes.
We drove first to Saint Lary and enjoyed a beautiful drive into resort, winding through the small roads to the village. It’s a very gentle climb but there are not the steep mountain hairpins of the Alps.
Saint Lary (full name is Saint Lary Soulan, created when the municipalities joined in the early 1960s) is a traditional village, and one of the larger ski areas in the region has over 100km of piste divided into more than 50 runs suited to all abilities and reached by a fast gondola from the heart of the resort. This is one of 30 lifts, about a third of which are high-capacity quad and six-seater chairlifts. It has three interlinked high-altitude ski zones and has been given the “Family Plus Mountain” label for excellence in services and facilities for families. Half of the ski area has snowmaking cover. There’ve been ski lifts here for many years, but the old village has a longer history as a spa town – which is also the case with several other of the region’s ski areas – so we can add “ski and spa” to the region’s long list of attractions too!
We enjoyed the wide, sunny slopes and the relaxed atmosphere as the centre wound down for the season. Apart from the skiing, I was struck by the great authentic food which was very much influenced by the Spanish, and we enjoyed some excellent tapas.
Another interesting opportunity was to take a cat ski tour of the slopes. This was good fun with around ten people sat in the back of a cat tractor which took us on a tour of the mountain. It was a great way to show those who don’t ski around and give them a flavour of what it’s like up the mountain. I got to sit in the front on the way up and was mesmerised by the number of levers and buttons involved with the driving of such a piece of machinery! It was great to get a different perspective on touring the slopes, and I came back really appreciating what an amazing job the mountain maintenance teams do to keep the mountains safe and fun for us all to enjoy.
Staying in the convenient 4★ Mercure Saint Lary Sensoria Hotel, we had just a short walk across the car park to get on the gondola up to the slopes, and it was also well placed for pedestrian access to the heart of Saint Lary’s restaurants and shopping area (both were only 50m away in fact).
We moved on to Peyragudes, which we found to be fantastic for families. All accommodation was apartment based, many with pools, saunas and hammams as well as some slopeside accommodation with doorstep skiing.
We found there were great facilities for après-ski, and the layout of the slopes makes it easy to watch beginner skiers – a real bonus for families with younger children. It’s almost like a seaside promenade except the sea and sand part is snow and chairlifts, lined with great restaurants and cafés. It is a lively and interactive place for families and children to ski and sledge.
Situated in the Pyrenees National Park, close to the Spanish border, Peyragudes straddles the mountains between the picturesque valleys of Louron and Larboust, and although the ski area was smaller than Saint Lary’s, there was again a modern high-speed lift network, so we were whisked back up the slopes quickly for more on-slope time.
One highlight here was Spassio – a well-being centre inspired by the expertise of world-famous Balnéa, which had great spa facilities although more suitable for adults than children. The building’s attraction lies in its minimalist architecture, constructed primarily from glass and other natural materials, giving it clean lines and large picture windows which let the light flood in from the mountain summits outside.
Once inside, you can immerse yourself in a Scandinavian-themed spa world with wonderful, relaxing hot-water pools and all other spa facilities and treatments on tap.
Credit – Spassio
Another must-do is a visit to the Cabanou restaurant for an evening meal. This is a very special experience as you are transported there by snowmobiles. This is a super experience for all the family, young and old; we took our 70-year-old grandparents up on the snowmobiles along with our small children, and everyone had such fun. We watched the sun set behind the mountains before sitting down to dinner. The meal was a lively, buffet-style meal offering as much as you could eat, with a live band playing music too. Anyone visiting Peyragudes should definitely try this.
Saint Lary : saintlary.com/en
Peyragudes : pyreneescollection.co.uk/ski/Peyragudes
Balnéa : balnea.fr
Pyrenees Collection (pyreneescollection.co.uk; 0844 576 0176) offer 3 nights half-board in the Mercure Saint Lary Sensoria Hotel in St Lary from £306pp based on two sharing a large double room including midweek ferry crossing.