Accommodation
Imagine arriving at a ski resort where cars are nowhere to be seen and the only sound in the streets is the soft jingle of horse-drawn sleighs on snow. Welcome to Avoriaz, a high-altitude village perched on the cliffs above Morzine in the French Alps. Avoriaz isn’t just a resort; it’s the jewel of the Portes du Soleil, one of the world’s largest linked ski areas spanning France and Switzerland. As an avid skier, I found Avoriaz to be a magical blend of futuristic design and classic alpine charm – a place where you can ski across international borders, explore endless trails, and then relax in a truly unique mountain town.
Avoriaz greets you with a pedestrian-only village set at 1,800m elevation, meaning everything is ski-in/ski-out and delightfully walkable (or skiable!). With no cars allowed, horse-drawn sleigh taxis glide through the snow-packed streets, ferrying visitors and their luggage to hotels. It’s a scene straight out of a winter fairy tale – one of my early memories here is bundling onto a sleigh under falling snow, gliding past whimsical wooden buildings that seem to grow out of the mountainside.
The architecture of Avoriaz is famously distinctive. The entire resort was purpose-built in the 1960s with a bold vision: wooden-clad apartments and hotels that mimic the shape of the surrounding cliffs. The buildings have a retro-futuristic look, weathered in cedar wood tones, giving the village a cozy yet otherworldly atmosphere. Wandering through the center of Avoriaz, I felt like I was in a sci-fi alpine outpost – modernist geometric structures blanketed by snow, but warmed by the glow of lively restaurants, bakeries, and bars at street level. Despite its avant-garde design, the village feels welcoming and family-friendly. In fact, Avoriaz is known for its children’s ski school center (“Village des Enfants”) right in the heart of town, and you’ll often see kids sledging and building snowmen while parents enjoy a mulled wine on sun terraces. The car-free environment isn’t just a novelty; it creates a safe, relaxed vibe that families and pedestrians love.
Thanks to its elevation and geography, Avoriaz boasts some of the most reliable snow in the region. Sitting above 1,800 meters with terrain reaching up to about 2,400+ meters at the Hauts Forts, the resort often has an excellent base when lower villages are getting rain or slush. In my experience, even late in the spring, Avoriaz’s upper slopes stay wintery. The resort averages around 7 to 8 meters of snowfall each season, making it one of the snowiest spots in France. Better yet, Avoriaz somehow manages to snag plenty of bluebird days – locals will tell you it enjoys more sunny days than many other French resorts. Waking up to a panorama of fresh snow glittering under a clear blue sky is a common delight here.
Avoriaz’s local ski area offers 130 km of pistes ranging from gentle greens to hair-raising blacks, and it’s designed in a way that skiers of different abilities can all find their groove. Beginners will appreciate the wide, gentle slopes right above the village – the Plateau area has magic carpets and easy runs where I often see first-timers gaining confidence. For intermediates (which the vast majority of us are), Avoriaz is a paradise of long blues and reds. One of my favorite cruisy runs is Proclou, a lovely long green/blue that winds through trees and open areas from Avoriaz down toward the Lindarets valley. It’s the kind of relaxed piste that lets you truly savor the scenery and warm up your legs in the morning.
Intermediates and advanced skiers can enjoy fast red runs like Arare and Combe à Floret, which descend from the higher sectors with a mix of open bowls and rolling terrain. Avoriaz’s modern lift system – including high-speed chairlifts and the Prodains gondola – keeps you moving quickly so you can pack in the miles. I was impressed that despite peak holiday crowds, the lift network did a great job dispersing people across the mountains.
For advanced skiers and thrill-seekers, Avoriaz has some gems. The Hauts Forts sector (the highest point above Avoriaz) offers long, steep black runs that will test your stamina – including the famed World Cup downhill run to Les Prodains (a race-grade slope that will have your legs burning by the bottom). After a snowfall, the Hauts Forts area also becomes an off-piste playground, with routes like Combe du Machon attracting freeriders in search of powder stashes. I vividly recall standing atop a cornice in this sector on a powder day, looking down at a sea of untouched snow and thinking, this is why I ski. The combination of steep terrain and deep snow was pure joy.
Avoriaz has built a world-famous freestyle scene, and even if you’re not a park rat, it’s hard not to be impressed (or at least entertained) by it. The resort is home to around six terrain parks of varying difficulty. The crown jewel is The Stash, a legendary terrain park designed with Burton Snowboards that’s tucked away in the trees of the Lindarets forest. It’s an eco-conscious park with wooden obstacles, rails, and jumps that use the natural terrain – imagine weaving through a snowy forest and suddenly hitting a perfectly shaped kicker or sliding a log rail. There’s even a smaller version called Lil’ Stash for intermediates and kids to get a taste of the action. I’m not the boldest freestyler on earth, but even I had to try a few features in The Stash, feeling equal parts exhilarated and terrified as I navigated through the playful woodland course.
Aside from The Stash, Avoriaz’s Snowzone offers more traditional park areas with halfpipes, big-air jumps, and boardercross courses. Often I’d pause on a nearby chairlift just to watch the local talent throw tricks – it’s like a free snowboard competition every day. Whether you aspire to catch air or prefer to keep your skis firmly on the snow, the freestyle areas add youthful energy to Avoriaz. They also mean the resort draws a lot of snowboarders and freestyle skiers, giving it a cool vibe (and ensuring the music is always pumping somewhere on the mountain).
No discussion of skiing in Avoriaz (or Portes du Soleil) is complete without mentioning Le Pas de Chavanette, better known as The Swiss Wall. This run is accessible from Avoriaz’s Chavanette sector at the French-Swiss border, and it’s the stuff of legend and lore. Grading-wise, it’s beyond a normal black run – more of an orange or “Experts Only” itinerary. From the top, all you see is a jaw-dropping 1-kilometer mogul field dropping almost vertically into Switzerland, with a terrifying 331-meter vertical descent of bumps, often icy and never groomed. The first time I stood at the brink, I felt my heart rate spike. This is one of the steepest, most challenging pistes in Europe. Many skiers end up descending a few meters, then wisely decide to take the chairlift back down – no shame in that!
For those brave (or crazy) enough to try it, the key is to commit to your line and absorb those massive moguls. I managed to ski the Swiss Wall on a cold morning when it hadn’t yet turned into an icy minefield, and it was still the hardest run I’ve ever done. By the time I reached the bottom, my legs were jelly from absorbing endless Volkswagen-sized bumps. But the adrenaline rush and bragging rights were totally worth it. Even if you don’t ski it, it’s worth taking the lift just to look at it (and watch others attempt it). Thankfully, there’s a way to bypass the steepest part via a gentler route on the side, so strong intermediates can still cross the border without facing the full horror show of moguls.
What truly sets Avoriaz apart is that it’s the gateway to the Portes du Soleil, a gigantic linked ski domain that offers endless exploration. Picture this: one ski pass gives you access to 12 resorts in two countries, with over 600 km of pistes served by around 200 lifts. You can spend days roaming and still discover new corners. During my stay, I made it a personal mission each day to explore a different corner of this vast playground – and it felt like a new adventure every time.
From Avoriaz’s central location, it’s easy to push outward. Drop into the neighboring valley of Morzine and Les Gets for cruisy tree-lined runs and charming village ambiance. The runs there are generally gentler; I loved an afternoon in Les Gets enjoying quiet blue pistes through pine forests, a nice contrast to Avoriaz’s treeless high alpine bowls. Be aware though: returning to Avoriaz from Morzine requires a bit of planning (and a series of lifts) or taking the efficient Prodains cable car back up from the valley – I learned that the hard way after missing a connecting lift and having to catch the last cable car!
On another day, I set out from Avoriaz towards Châtel and the French–Swiss border beyond. The Châtel sector (linked via the Lindarets valley and lifts like Chaux Fleurie) offers fantastic intermediate and advanced terrain. There are thrilling red runs like Linga – a long, rolling descent that seems to go on forever. I still remember the burn in my thighs after blasting top-to-bottom without stopping. Off-piste enthusiasts will find little powder stashes along the edges of these runs or by hiking a short way from the lifts (I found a lovely untracked bowl just a 10-minute hike from the top of Rochassons chairlift, rewarded with knee-deep powder).
Crossing into Switzerland is a must-do experience. Skiing over an international border feels surreal and exciting – one moment you’re in France, and a single run later you’re ordering lunch in a Swiss mountaintop restaurant. From Avoriaz, the main gateway is via the Mossettes chairlift which tops out on the frontier, giving access to Swiss areas like Les Crosets and Champéry. Les Crosets welcomes you with wide open slopes and a famous terrain park, plus stunning views of the Dents du Midi peaks. I had a delicious cheese fondue for lunch on the Swiss side (because when in Switzerland, eat fondue!), then continued exploring, eventually looping back into France in the afternoon.
A word of advice from personal experience: plan your return route carefully when you venture far. The Portes du Soleil is so vast that it’s easy to lose track of time and distance. Lifts close around 4:30-5:00pm, and if you’re in the wrong valley at day’s end, you might find yourself stranded. I once had to frantically navigate three lifts and ski at top speed to make it back over the ridge before closing – the alternative would have been an extremely long (and expensive) taxi ride around the mountains to get home! So, always keep an eye on the clock and know the last lift times for key connecting lifts, especially if you’re crossing into Switzerland or heading to the far reaches of Châtel or Les Crosets.
Despite the planning required, exploring the full Portes du Soleil is absolutely worth it. Each sector has its own character: Les Gets offers gentle slopes and family-friendly vibes, Morzine has a mix of intermediates and a lively town, Châtel provides long runs and authentic French charm, and the Swiss resorts bring dramatic scenery and a slightly different cultural flavor. There’s even a quieter outpost, Torgon and the semi-connected St. Jean d’Aulps area, which are off the beaten path if you crave solitude on the slopes. In short, you could spend a week here and never ski the same run twice – the variety is mind-boggling.
After a long day carving up the slopes, Avoriaz knows how to keep the fun going. The après-ski scene here ranges from wild mountaintop parties to cozy fireside relaxation. The most famous spot is La Folie Douce, an outdoor club/restaurant on the slopes where every afternoon turns into a high-altitude dance party. Starting around 3pm, DJs blast music, dancers and performers get the crowd going, and people (still in their ski boots) are dancing on the tables with champagne sprays in the air. I popped into Folie Douce on a sunny afternoon and found myself in the middle of an alpine rave – it was impossible not to join in the dancing, helmet and all. What’s great is that Folie Douce is accessible for everyone (families included can enjoy the show), and you can either ski or download on a lift back to the village when the party wraps up at 6pm.
If your style of après-ski is a bit more low-key, Avoriaz has plenty of options in the village once the lifts stop. There are traditional Savoyard restaurants where you can unwind over a pot of cheese fondue or raclette, sharing stories from the day’s adventures. One of my favorite evenings was spent in a little restaurant with rustic wooden decor, indulging in a hearty tartiflette (a local potato, cheese, and bacon dish) while snow lightly fell outside. For a casual drink, there are a number of bars and pubs with happy hours and live music. You’ll find everything from craft beer pubs to laid-back lounge bars. Despite being a purpose-built resort, Avoriaz does have character in its nightlife – many venues embrace the 1960s retro vibe or go full alpine-themed with cowbells and wooden beams.
Beyond eating and drinking, Avoriaz offers unique off-slope activities especially suited for families or for rest days. Chief among them is Aquariaz, an indoor tropical water park perched at altitude. Yes, you read that right – there’s a tropical-themed water park in the middle of this ski resort! It features pools, lazy rivers, water slides, and even real plants and palm trees, all kept at a balmy temperature. I spent a rest day there and it was a surreal experience to be in a warm water paradise while looking out at snow-covered mountains. It’s the perfect place to soothe sore muscles (there are hot tubs too) or keep kids entertained for an afternoon.
Other fun activities include horse-drawn sleigh rides around the village, which are incredibly scenic especially at twilight when the town lights twinkle. There’s also a snowpark for sledging and beginner snowmobiling for kids, plus a bowling alley and even a small cinema in town. If you’re into more adrenaline, you can try paragliding over the slopes or night sledging events that are organized on certain evenings. In Avoriaz, I never found myself bored – even off the skis, the resort buzzes with things to do.
The ski season in Avoriaz typically runs from mid-December through mid-April. Given the high elevation and generally cold microclimate, the best snow conditions are often from late December through March. I personally love January in Avoriaz – the slopes are quieter right after New Year’s, and the snow is usually excellent. February brings school holidays and with them bigger crowds (especially with its popularity among French and British families), but also lively events and a fun atmosphere. March can be wonderful too, with longer sunny days and a deep snowpack. By April, the lower parts of the Portes du Soleil (like Morzine) get slushy in the afternoons, but Avoriaz’s upper runs usually remain skiable till closing day. Spring skiing on Avoriaz’s south-facing slopes, wearing just a light jacket under the bright sun, is one of those simple pleasures I’ve cherished.
If you’re coming early or late season, it’s a good idea to check which lifts and runs are open. Avoriaz often opens a bit earlier than other resorts (sometimes just on weekends in early December if snow permits) and stays open later, because it can hold snow when others can’t. I once planned an early December trip and was pleasantly surprised to find Avoriaz’s top lifts already spinning while neighboring resorts were still waiting for snow. Always look at the weather and lift status – and if a storm hits, consider skiing the tree areas or even taking a day trip down to Les Gets for better visibility among the pines.
Getting to Avoriaz is relatively easy by Alps standards. The resort is just 95 km from Geneva Airport, which is about a 1.5 to 2-hour transfer by road. I flew into Geneva, then hopped on a pre-booked shuttle bus that dropped me at the base of Avoriaz (at a hamlet called Les Prodains). From there, a spectacular 3S cable car whisks you up the cliff to Avoriaz’s center in just a few minutes – or alternatively, you can drive up to the resort’s parking areas on a winding mountain road. Transfers are plentiful, and many tour operators include Avoriaz in their packages, so logistics aren’t too daunting. Once you’re in Avoriaz, you genuinely don’t need a car at all – everything is accessible on foot or skis. In fact, one of my favorite arrival memories is stepping out of that cable car, strapping on my skis, and skiing through town with my luggage on a sledge behind me en route to my accommodation!
After numerous ski trips around the world, Avoriaz and the Portes du Soleil hold a special place in my heart. Few destinations can match the unique character of Avoriaz’s village and the sheer scale of the ski area it unlocks. It’s a rare combo of quirky and cutting-edge – from the quiet sleigh-ride streets of a car-free village to the high-speed lifts spanning hundreds of kilometers of adventure. Each day in Avoriaz can be entirely different: one day you’re chasing powder in a high alpine bowl, the next you’re cruising through storybook forests on the Swiss side, or dancing on the tables at a mountaintop party.
This skier’s guide only scratches the surface of what Avoriaz and the Portes du Soleil have to offer, but I hope it conveys why this place is so special. Whether you’re a family making your first turns on gentle slopes, a park enthusiast looking for the next big hit, or an expert on a quest to conquer the Swiss Wall, Avoriaz welcomes you with open arms (and endless pistes). As for me, I know I’ll be back – there’s an infectious energy here, a blend of French joie de vivre and Swiss alpine beauty, that keeps calling me for just one more run. So pack your skis, bring your sense of adventure, and experience the alpine playground of Avoriaz and the Portes du Soleil for yourself – I promise it’ll be an unforgettable ride.
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