A new train route to the Alps via Lyon launches this winter – meaning that you can reach a range of splendid French ski resorts more easily than before. Daniel Elkan reports.
For skiers who prefer the idea of speeding to the Alps on trains rather than planes, the launch of a new Eurostar route from London to Lyon is great news. This direct service, calling at Ashford en route, opens up some very interesting possibilities. The journey departs from St Pancras at 07:20, taking 4 hours and 41 minutes, arriving at Lyon at 1pm. There, you only need to change platform onto a local train to reach a wide range of ski destinations, many of which would have previously required a change of station in Paris.
Credit – Eurostar
This new route also provides an alternative to the direct Ski Train, particularly useful on peak dates such as New Year and February half term, when the Ski Train has already sold out.
So where can it take you ? Here’s our pick of some of the best destinations.
Alpe d’Huez
Alpe d’Huez has 250km of pistes, which look onto some of the Alps’ most breathtaking panoramic views, particularly those of the Écrins peaks. At either end of the ski area, the slopes remain consistently and blissfully quiet. Try the Sarenne black run, one of Europe’s longest, but don’t overlook the thrills of the red runs that plunge down into Villard Reculas, Vaujany and Oz too.
Credit – Alpe d’Huez Tourism
Travel : Lyon to Grenoble takes 1 hour 35 minutes then 50 minutes by bus or taxi; rail fares from London start at £123 return.
Meribel
Located at the heart of the huge Les 3 Vallées ski domain, Meribel has an enduring popularity with British and French skiers alike. Its various villages are lined with attractive wooden chalets, and the lively après-ski bars that dot the slopes are great to rock up to after a day’s exploration. The resort is well placed to explore nearby Courchevel and La Tania, or for an on-slope expedition to Val Thorens, via the peaks of Mont de La Chambre and Roc des 3 Marches.
Travel : Lyon to Moutiers takes 2 hours 30 minutes then 25 minutes by bus or taxi; rail fares from London start at £139 return.
Les Gets
Cute Les Gets, located at one end of the huge Portes du Soleil ski area, has a laid-back vibe and endearing, unpretentious appeal. There’s epic skiing terrain to explore in the wider circuit, linked with nearby Morzine and Avoriaz. But don’t miss the local slopes at Mont Chéry, a haven on a powder day for local skiers who know how quiet it remains. The resort is activity-packed, including chocolate-making workshops, lantern-lit walks, paragliding and husky rides – and the charming village has a weekly local market too.
Credit – M.Martel & OT LesGets
Travel : Lyon to Cluses takes 2 hours 55 minutes then 25 minutes by bus or taxi; rail fares from London start at £139 return.
La Clusaz and Le Grand-Bornand
The average British skier may not have heard of these two villages, and if that’s the case, they are missing out. Each resort has some fabulous, scenic skiing combined on the same ski pass – giving access to a total of 222km of pistes. La Clusaz is the more vibrant, sporty village, with streets that curl around a 17th century church in the centre and lively bars in the evening. By contrast, Le Grand-Bornand is more family orientated with an equally beautiful setting. It’s also the birthplace of Reblochon cheese and home to a cross-country skiing and biathlon circuit.
Travel : Lyon to Annecy takes 1 hour 59 minutes then 35 minutes by bus or taxi; rail fares from London start at £131 return.
Les Arcs
Intermediates visiting Les Arcs will be in sheer heaven here. The 425km of pistes are beautifully interconnected, and the linked areas of Peisey-Vallandry and La Plagne make the possibilities endless. What makes this such a great place to learn, too, is that there are plenty of high-altitude blue runs, such as the pistes that descend from the 2600m Col de La Chal, leading to tree-lined runs down into Villaroger, 1400m below.
Travel : Lyon to Bourg-St-Maurice takes 3 hours 8 minutes, then a 10 funicular ride to Arcs 2600; rail fares from London start at £139 return.
Saint Gervais
One of the birthplaces of skiing in the French Alps, grand old Saint Gervais has a relaxed pace, quiet slopes, and lots of them, sharing 325km with neighbouring Megeve. The village was originally a spa town, and is home to some impressive buildings and thermal waters for a soak after the slopes. For mountain dining, you are well catered for here with rustic huts like La Terrasse de Freddy, great for a long lunch or a hot-chocolate stop while you take in the views of Mont Blanc.
Travel : Local train from Lyon to St Gervais takes 3hours 13 minutes, then 10 minutes by bus or taxi; rail fares from London start at £139 return.
Serre Chevalier
A little further afield from Lyon, friendly Serre Chevalier in the Southern Alps is a wonderful destination, not least because so many of the runs are wooded, with plenty of north- or north-east-facing slopes that hold their snow well. When it snows here, it can be a powder playground, particularly the runs above Villeneuve. The resort also has some exemplary beginner zones, making this a great place for beginners and families with younger children.
Travel : Local train from Lyon to Briancon takes 4 hours 41 minutes; rail fares from London start at £157 return.
Les Contamines
The remarkable thing about Les Contamines is that you can come here during February half term and yet find yourself on long, empty blue and red runs. The resort can confidently claim to have some of the best views over Mont Blanc, while the descent into Hauteluce is often made above a lake of clouds – which on a sunny day is quite an extraordinary site. In the evenings, a stroll through the quiet village will reveal homely restaurants so welcoming that you feel as if you are dining in a friend’s home. Travel: Local train from Lyon to St Gervais takes 3 hours 13 minutes, then 20 minutes by bus or taxi; rail fares from London start at £139 return.
For more information about how to travel to the Alps by train, visit www.snowcarbon.co.uk
