A frequently voiced criticism of ski areas today is that even the most famous are all rather samey.
There’s a headlong rush for the latest heated, people-gobbling, wind-proofed, high-speed lifts; any potentially challenging little bends on the pistes have been mechanically ironed out; mountain restaurants have been expanded to ensure everyone can sit down, and made cafeteria-style so you don’t have to wait for service; and evermore luxury accommodation options jostle for space at the base of the lifts.
That is perhaps a bit too damning of the modern skiing world, but having visited so many ski resorts that were much like every other, including some very famous names, it’s perhaps why a family visit to Cortina d’Ampezzo in the Italian Dolomites last Easter was such a very special experience.
Cortina d’Ampezzo feels different. Of course, it has its fair share of smooth pistes and fast lifts, and indeed plenty of luxurious accommodation (truly luxurious in its case, alongside all other categories), but it has something more. Do we call it ”pedigree” or ”character”, or simply ”class”? Probably all three, as well as many more superlatives.
Cortina is quite simply a timeless, classic resort, oozing with ski heritage; and one where you can walk up the pedestrianised central street, Corso Italia, passing designer shops, and enticing cafes and restaurants, with glimpses of spectacular Dolomite scenery beyond – it’s the kind of place where you just feel happy to be.
This is, of course, one of Italy and the world’s most famous ski resorts. Classic Bond movies were filmed here, the Winter Olympics has been staged here, even the American motor industry giant Ford named a car after it.
This is skiing “la dolce vita” – the sweet life!
The Three Remarkable Ski Areas Of Cortina
The feeling of happiness continues on the slopes. Cortina offers an eclectic choice of three ski sectors, each with its own unique character and qualities – a far more diverse selection than you would normally expect
The largest area, Tofana, accessed by a cable car next to the town’s large indoor sports centre, has a great mix of terrain, including some great long cruisers, and trails selected for the 1956 Olympics and used today for the annual World Cup downhill races. You can follow the Olympia ski tour, which includes the Olympia run.
Across the resort, the interlinked Faloria-Cristallo-Mietres sector, accessed by a cable car from the other end of town, is almost as large. With lifts stretching up to 2930m above sea level, providing access to snow-sure massive descents, including the Vitelli piste, which hosted the Olympic giant slalom. Mietres, which is separate to Faloria-Cristallo, has very easy runs, and is a great choice for families with children and for beginners.
The third area, Lagazuoi–5 Torri, is a very different experience, almost unique in the skiing world. A 20-minute bus ride takes you away from everyone to near-empty slopes in (if it’s possible!) still more stunning scenery. The skiing here is sublime on wide, open slopes, and an unusual cable car (the door opens vertically) whisks you to the top of Lagazuoi. From here (where it is worth taking in the 360° views, and stopping for lunch at the excellent mountain refuge) is one of the world’s great runs; the 8.5km-long ”Hidden Valley” descends through a mountain wilderness past frozen ice falls. At the bottom you can take a bus or shared taxi back, or go on, with a remarkable horse-towed drag lift, to reach Alta Badia and the famous Sellaronda circuit. It really is a very special ski experience that anyone intermediate standard or above can enjoy.
There are plans to connect this sector to Tofana by chairlift, which would make it possible, with the aid of those horses, to ski from Cortina town as far as the Fassa valley, Alta Badia or Val Gardena, linking nearly 600km of pistes. All are included on the Dolomiti Superski pass.
Where To Stay
If you’re travelling independently, and your pockets are deep enough, THE hotel to stay in when you visit Cortina is the elegant and magnificent Cristallo Spa, which has been welcoming the great and the good from around the world for the past 100 years.
Located in secluded private grounds, but right on the edge of town, the Cristallo manages to pull off that difficult trick, which separates the truly great from those that wish or pretend to be so, where its staff are friendly but also efficient and professional, its public areas, rooms and suites all have understated elegance, and the quality of service is second to none.
If you prefer to have your Cortina holiday perfectly packaged from the UK, Inghams (inghams.co.uk) offer a range of flight- and transfer-inclusive accommodation options, including the excellent 4 Chalet Hotel Parc Victoria, a Cortina icon since 1892, and superbly located right on the central Corso Italia. It’s only 6 minutes’ walk from the lifts, but there’s a complimentary minibus service too. You can stay on a catered basis, with prices starting from £599pp, including return flights from London Gatwick to Innsbruck, and resort transfers. Regional flights are also available for an additional supplement, and you can pre-book your lift pass, ski hire, and ski school classes if you wish through Inghams.
Another option is the characterful Sporting Hotel Villa Blu (villablu.it), which is pleasantly located in its own parkland, a short walk from the resort centre via a path along the route of the former railway line. Family-run by friendly but efficient staff, this is a real traditional Italian gem, which offers regular private shuttle services to the cable car stations.
More information, special offers, and winter packages available at cortina.dolomiti.org.
