Ben Clatworthy
I’m trundling up the mountain in an antiquated 35-year-old snowcat, past small stone buildings, which have certainly seen better days. But I’m not skiing in Kazakhstan or Lebanon.
No, this is Italy. And nor am I going skiing. In fact, I’m off on a 5km snowshoe outing through the forests of Madesimo, one of the closest ski resorts to Milan. It’s easy to lose appreciation for the mountains when you spend your time hurtling about the place, so spending a morning at a more leisurely pace proved a welcome change. It was, in fact, a series of events conspiring against me that had prompted my Alpine wander. Urgent repairs to a bridge on the access road had forced the closure of the resort (on the grounds of health and safety), so I found myself at a loose end in a village where life – normally – revolves around skiing.
I started my Alpine meander at Lago Azzurro, before striding through the forests, over rivers, and negotiating icy pistes as I went. It had been a while since the last snowfall, so the snow – crisp on top, fluffy and powdery underneath – was well tracked. Not by skiers, but by the paw prints of small mountain animals – hares, foxes, and marmottes – which prowl once darkness falls.
I paused to chat, and admire the high mountain couloirs that litter the impending jagged peaks. I joked with my companions as we plodded along, sharing tales of high-octane mountain experiences. This day was never going to be the basis of such tales, but it proved an opportunity to reconnect with the mountain, and appreciate the power they behold. Even in the quietest weeks of the season the distant whirl of pylon wheels and chairlift engines pollute the air: but not this day.
Of course, it’s not all about snowshoeing in Madesimo, and when the lifts are open – and conditions permit – the resort offers 60km of skiing from 1550–2948m. Sadly, whilst the rest of the Alps were covered in snow, this small corner of Italy found itself denuded of snow by December, after hefty falls in the autumn. Locals’ told me how the resort often opens its doors in early-November; however, this year the race was on to get the resort in full operation for Christmas, and as I strolled through the village, trucks laden with snow – scraped from wherever possible – negotiated the narrow streets, headed for the bereft slopes.
However, all was not lost, as the limited number of open slopes – just seven – proved to be challenging and immaculately groomed. The red and black pistes from the top of the Cima Sole are both used by the Italian ski team for training, whilst the adjacent blue run offers a more gentle descent of the mountain.
The resort is famous for its 3km Canalone, itinerary black piste, which descends from the top of the Groppera cable car, and begins with a narrow, steep gully, before winding its way down the mountain face. Following fresh snowfalls the run is a powder skiers dream, quickly becoming tracked, and what remains is a dramatic mogul field. It’s certainly not a run for those uncertain of their ability on skis, or afraid of hitting ice.
Three lifts jut out of the village, and most accommodations are within an easy walk of these. A number of easier nursery slopes can be found near the Montalto chairlift, whilst those more accustomed to aerials and jumps are catered for by a large snowpark at the top of the main gondola.
A number of easier nursery slopes can be found near the Montalto chairlift, whilst those more accustomed to aerials and jumps are catered for by a large snowpark at the top of the main gondola.
Once the lifts stop turning, those seeking a relaxed après-ski drink should head to the stylishly appointed Bollicine bar. The typically Italian nibbles – prosciutto ham, local cheese, and pizza – all come highly recommended, unless, of course, you’re planning on having a big supper.
However long you stay, dinner at the Dogana restaurant is an absolute must. The magnificently kitsch 340-year-old converted house is dimly lit, exuding charm and quirkiness in equal measure. A dangling washing up glove above the door greets you, whilst, the equally peculiar downstairs bar is manned by a mannequin. Local dishes are served up in vast quantities, all washed down with regional red wine. Each course is complimented by a different bottle, climaxing with a light – yet seriously strong – rouge, measuring in at 16%.
I staggered home, admiring the lofty peaks, lit by the moon. In the way that trips go, things hadn’t exactly gone to plan, but it was early doors, and a lack of snow in December certainly doesn’t mean the slopes will be suffering by January. In fact, as I write, on my return to England, the forecast predicts snow in the coming days and plummeting temperatures. Alpine life is unpredictable, and that’s what makes it so special. I could go to Venice, and the canals would always be there. Snow is far more interesting, and at least now I have an excuse to return and ski the remainder. In truth, that’s rather a fun thought.
Ben Clatworthy was a guest of Momentum Ski (momentumski.com) who offer a tailor-made packages, with prices starting from £725pp for 7 nights’ half-board accommodation at the 4★ Hotel Andossi, including return flights from London Gatwick to Milan and car hire. Six-day ski passes start at €137 per adult (£116).
For more information see visitmadesimo.it.
