With its great snowfall reputation, thanks to its proximity to Mont Blanc, and its quick access from Geneva, the Grand Massif region is one of the most popular for Brits looking for an easy to reach, snow-sure destination.
But the majority of us head up to the purpose-built resort of Flaine, in the heart of a vast snowbowl that crowns the Grand Massif, the fifth largest ski area in France, and one of the world’s 30 biggest.
Flaine has a lot going for it, particularly slopeside convenience, but unless you’re a lover of stark 1960s concrete architecture of the Bauhaus school, then pretty it ain’t.
Many people staying in Flaine don’t realise though that there are alternatives. Just over the edges of that powder bowl lie four traditional French villages, oozing with that French ambience and tradition that we love almost as much as lots of snow, and with a quick transfer.
The four are Sixt Fer à Cheval, Les Carroz, Morillon, and most attractive of all, Samoëns.
Nestled at the heart of a great glacial valley, surrounded by seven dramatic peaks, Samoëns has for centuries been the focus of important historical events. Older and larger than neighbouring Morillon, Samoëns retains the friendly charm of an ancient market town, still strongly influenced by its farming and masonry traditions. There’s a generally peaceful, timeless feel to the resort, although lively nightspots can be found.
But, despite its long history, Samoëns continues to improve what it offers its guests, this season adding a pedestrian area in the centre of the village, which has created a relaxed walking area for window shopping, and for partaking in a hot drink after skiing.
In recent years the resort has taken a dramatic step forward in terms of its skiing too, with the opening of a modern gondola lift, which lifts guests right from the village up into the heart of the Grand Massif, making the skiing (previously a bus journey away) much easier to access. The Grand Massif Express lifts skiers up to a key plateau on the circuit, 1600m up, in just 8 minutes.
A perfect choice for beginners, Samoëns’ dedicated and extremely large learners’ area, with seven lifts all to itself, is perfect for first-timer/beginner skiers, or for those visiting with younger children. Lou Caboëns restaurant at the top of the Grand Massif Express lift is an added plus, offering amazing food at good prices, it’s a must-visit if only for its tartiflette.
If you have some more experienced skiers in your party, Samoëns is also a great choice for mixed-groups, with first-time skiers or boarders able to progress on those superb nursery slopes, while those more experienced can head off into the vast Grand Massif.
Famous runs you must ski (or board) include the Piste des Cascades, which is accessed via the Grandes Platières cable car from above Flaine. This amazing 14km-long, blue rated, wonderful scenic run is one of the world’s longest. Expert skiers looking for tough skiing take the same lifts, but head for the Combe de Gers sector, and a black slope called “Styx”, which is never groomed, and rejoins the long Cascades run at its end. Closer to home, the Croix area at Samoëns 1600 has the black slopes, Marmotte and Chamois, both really enjoyable runs, with jumps and ramps at the end of the slopes.
Off the slopes Samoëns is not known for a lively après-ski scene – this is the resort to choose if you prefer locally sourced and cooked meals in cosy traditional restaurants, or to share a bottle of wine in an intimate bar.
That’s not to say lively options are not there if you are need them. Le Covey’s, which has Irish owners and a wide range of beers, has gained a reputation for a good craic, and has become a village institution.
There are a wide range of accommodation options in the village, with chalets, apartments, and hotels. In the latter category, the Neige et Roc is a superb family-run hotel, with incredibly friendly, but efficient, staff offering service that cannot be faulted.
Located within a quick walk from the town centre, this charming hotel boasts great cosy rooms, and along with its relaxed, traditional feel, there’s a swimming pool with hot tub facilities to help tired skiing legs. Guests taking the half-board option get very good value, with an excellent four course set menu meal in the evening.
